Armed Merchant Cruisers & Raiders - Bearing Deadly Cargo The Engagement of a Victory ship vs. better armed enemy ship starts at 19:50.they get guns tho. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ciw6vXasC0
This worked out very well I thought, I got in a hurry tho I decided to lay the back half later and glass them together at a later date.
I have a removable motor/gear box, i used neodymium magnets and 2 brass pens for alignments. It literally snaps in to place. but i am wondering how to wire it up for forward and reverse movement to the receiver... and I added a coin for luck and liberty.
Hobbywing 1060 esc is my suggestion. Just solder leads onto the motor that end with 4mm male bullets. You can replace the standard connector on the esc with your choice as well if you want to, or buy/make an adapter if you really didn't want to cut it. Has jumpers for lipo cutoff on or off, as well as a jumper to set it forward and reverse, so no brake where you would have to hit reverse twice to get it to actually reverse. Should be just a simple 2 channel setup for the ship.
Thank you for the suggestion, I will order the Hobbywing 1060 esc on the 30th when I get payed. I have been looking in to the finishing touches for the ship... the correct things for the J OB's top side that identifies it as that particular ship. I had found a Paper craft ship that has the correct details as many ships differed from one another even tho they wear mass produced oddly enough. I need to finish up the drive shaft and steering gear and make the aft fiberglass bottom. The ship is progressing, at a snail's pace tho.
I orderd the ESC around the first of the month now i have to wait on it. I was looking for a better way of cutting beaded Styrofoam, I ended up buying a plastic mider box and a Irwin saw to do the job. And I am wating on the Elmers glue to dry before i start to do some sanding to get the shape that is needed to lay the rest of the fiberglass bottom.
I cant wait to see too, but it is just about all plastic easily replaced. This is a good test bed for me to see what I can get away with and what I cant, material wise speaking. I don't want to be that guy no one wants to play with because of questionable rule breaking. There was this one time tho, playing Nintendo track and field using the power pad with my older sister, I figured out if I stood on my tows and bounced my heels on the pad buttons very quickly instead of jogging in place. I told her I could beat her even if she had a half run to the finish line start, when she got half way I told her I would take off at 3/4, then just before she got to the finish line I did my thing I ran my character across the finish line in like less then 5 seconds of me starting my thing. she never played track and field with me again. She always won until then... LOL
I am all for incorporating new materials into what we do. This aspect is what I find to be the most engaging besides the actual battle's themselves. For others it's the history. Still others it's the politics of running an organization. It takes all of us together to make it work. We do have our disagreements for sure. But for me it's mostly about the technical side of the hobby.
I Really disliked civics class my self, I live history, silence, technology and figuring things out. I love to build things, most of the time I tend to take my time and figure things out and at times its money. This hobby is so much better then crashing a RC plain as much as I love aircraft and I will not be completely be rebuilding after each sortie, witch will keep me from loosing my mind. lol
There's a thread here somewhere with some small comments about my aircraft acquisition disorder. The Ohio guys got a small taste when I brought my 50cc profile 3D bird out to a battle. Having issues with the FAA trying to legislate us under the rug at the moment so there's that also. No matter what even if it only flys once and illigally I have a 1/4 scale DR1 I will be completing eventually.
I have crashed in to trees, power lines, and plowed straight in to the ground, I need to stay away from flying plains. it seems I am awful at flying. lol
I have many crashed plane stories. I was one of the more active guys in the group known as the profile RC brotherhood. Used to travel all over in the 18 wheeler with a sleeper full of birds going to an event a month. I lived for it. Nothing else mattered to me. It was fun but it was short sighted as could be. Haha.
Literally spent all my money on planes and toys ECT and never saved or did anything towards a retirement. Not complaining just stating the facts. I got a late start so I will have a late finish. Lol. But I've had some pretty cool toys and met a lot of really good people along the way so everything has its perks.
I sanded the aft section for the most part it needs a little bit of work still. This will be the impenetrable ends, is this acceptable for what I have planed? Each area is a 1 in. 1/2.
I received the ESC in the middle of this week but it did not come with instructions or in a any kind of package other then a vacuum sealed plastic bag, so I'm going to look online as this is like the second one I have ever touched in my life. lol
Hobbywing 1060 is also online, but it should have came with some. Odd that it didn't come in a little box with the picture and stuff on it. http://www.hobbywing.com/goods.php?id=358 that's the page for the 1060, instructions are there. the 2 jumpers on the 1060 are for lipo and Nimh mode, and the other is for the forward/brake/reverse settings. you will want to move the jumper for that to forward/reverse, otherwise when you go into reverse, it will just stop, and you will have to re-zero and put it back into reverse to go (or if in forward/brake only, it won't have reverse). the lipo/nimh would depend on what you are running for batteries, if you want the low voltage cutoff for lipo as well. otherwise it's pretty basic for the rest of it, the motor leads (yellow and blue) have a 4mm female bullet connector, just get a matching male and solder that with a length of wire to the motor for each lead. You could cut them off and solder directly to the motor or use some other connector if you would like. I prefer bullet connectors on motors as if they are the wrong polarity, you can just swap them, which you can't do that with polarized connectors. The battery connector is the "tamiya" standard connector, replace that with whatever connector your battery has. then just run the RX lead to the receiver into whatever channel you will be using to control it with.
