I bought it off of E-bay for $10.44 and free shipping and it was shipped from DONGGUAN , GUANGDONGSHENG and took nearly a month to get in the mail, when I opened the package I was using a squirt sprayer misting everything with rubbing alcohol as I opened the box...
I agree with this, lol Probably has a brake feature, so you will have to reverse, zero, and reverse again to actually going in reverse. Otherwise it has 2 jumpers looking it up, Lipo and reverse on and off. Set the one to your battery type, and leave the other at reverse on. Figure out what bullet size it has for the motor connector and get those on leads for the motor. Replace the battery connector with what you have on your battery, hook it into your RX, and your done, nothing else you can do You could have saved half of what you spent buying it through the wish app, and still waited the same time. Could have saved it all buying a reputable ESC that you'll eventually buy anyways. It's not like a 1060 is that expensive.
If you decide to go with a different ESC, I like this one a lot. Just FWD/REV no brake. 10A should be plenty to get something like a liberty ship up to speed no problem. And they're really cheap at around $7! View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JXI3H6Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have a spectrum DX6e I think I can tune the max speed through the transmitter, from reading the forms is the usual way to set the over all speed usually through the gear and pitch of the screw? is using the transmitter OK to go with?
Yes, just set the endpoint in the transmitter to reduce speed. Gearing and pitch prop are good for reducing speed but increasing acceleration. If it handles how you want to with the prop and gear ratio you have, just set the end point to make speed. Not sure what motor or gearing (if any) you are using, but with a smaller ship like this, it shouldnt need to much power so even if you dont gear it, it should still accelerate pretty good.
I am using two of the large gears that are geared upwards for more speed with the small gear on the main drive shaft. But the over all speed gain is useless with only getting the base speed for 10 knots. The only way the gear up works is if I am just puttering around a pond out of combat.
If you can, swap it to a single large gear with two smaller gears on the motors. They will run cooler and more efficiently.
Efficient motor/gears are not the issue I believe it will have plenty of speed, it will be too fast in fact. The issue is I will have to make my over all speed slower to be on the pond. 10 knots is what it is supposed to have, if I'm running near 40 I will get told to fix the problem. Lol
I would just run a really small gear on the motor and a really big gear on the shaft. And get the shallowest pitch and largest diameter prop you can fit. That's all you can do to reduce the top speed, other than drag discs on outer non-powered shafts, but iirc, it's only a single shaft ship. Using multiple gears can be done. Use a small on the motor, run that to a large gear, then that would be in the same shaft as a small (so they turn together at the same speed) and them a big gear powered by the small one. See the attached picture of a Tamiya gearbox to get what I'm saying. The small gear in the motor powers a big center gear, that has a small gear attached to it, that small gear is powering another big gear. Gives further reduction. If you put a small gear on the output of that, and a big gear on the shaft, that's also another gear reduction Lowering top speed means increasing gear ratio, smaller input, larger output gear. Having a small gear on the shaft takes away the gear reduction from your gearbox. Then adjust the endpoint on the transmitter of the ESC channel to make speed.
That is actually what is in the gear box I built. Then it go's to the gear on the drive shaft. I just bought the dule motor gear box so I had extra gear parts.
Then put as big of a gear on the prop shaft and as small of a gear as you can in the transmission output shaft. To reduce top speed. The other way (little gear on propshaft, big on output) increases the top speed.
The best way to run a motor is as close to it's rated speed as viable. They will run cooler and more efficiently. That was the point I was making. Lol.
Just wanted to drop in and say that a lot of this info being directed at @wfirebaugh is much more relevant to a battleship than a convoy. Acceleration and maximum torque don't really matter. That gearbox you have will work fine. You could probably go direct drive as well. Slap that ESC that @BigGunJeff linked to (I've used those or something similar in the past, good and cheap) on it and set max speed in the radio endpoint adjustment and you'll be golden.
I bought the RVL05132 Flower Class Corvette (Early) -- Plastic Model Military Ship Kit -- 1/144 Scale -- #05132$40.69 http://www.hobbylinc.com/revell-ger...tic-model-military-ship-kit-1:144-scale-05132 Close to 50$ with shipping, I'm probably going to make a set of plans based off the ship before I build the model. and they called the Liberty's a ugly duckling. lol
That is true, a lot of the gearbox stuff wouldnt be needed in a liberty ship or any small convoy ship, lol. But he already "gone and done it" anyways. I've mentioned the endpoint adjustment a few times, but it seems not to be the problem solver he's looking for? Since available top speed being more than what he has to run it at keeps getting brought up. I say just hook it all up however he wants and set the endpoint and be done. Endpoint adjustment gets him to where he needs to be. Great thing about it too is if he's not using it in combat, He can turn it back up lol (preferably keeping the settings to make speed stored somewhere for later) still having a small gear on the prop shaft and large in the gearbox output, after having a gear box, does take away from the gearing the gearbox was intended for in the first place.
