Let me know when you get some in. If it is simple enough to make the threaded adapter, we can find a way to make it /have it made cheaper than 230$
Hi I am interested in the light weight regulators as well. I am thinking of a destroyer and that would be a big weight saver. I would like to use the 12 or 16 gram capsules. A question that I have is how would the capsule be secured into the regulator if not threaded? I figure that the capsule would be great for the one gun that my tin can would have. Thanks in advance Kim
take a look at their web site, http://www.co2pros.com go to stock valves then click on composite regulator, then go down and click on options (its on the bottom left) then you can see a pic of the set-up.
Thanks for the link. It helps a lot. Do you know how the adjustablity of the regulator pressure works? Look like this would be the thing for a destroyer. Thanks Kim
The Rock is good, the Stabilizer is better. The Rock is Palmer's first regulator design, and the Stabilizer was built to improve upon that. The Rock mostly deals with #10-32 threads, which don't flow as much and don't seal as well as the larger 1/8NPT fittings which are more common on the Stabilizer. I especially like the Stabilizer because I use an ASA and 90-degree fitting to mount the regulator offset from the bottle, saving critical length in Big Gun battleships. Rock-the-boat and Rock-the-boat Cruiser are interesting regulators, but I have never really liked them. The original rock-the-boat, with its 16-gram cartridge, is too little CO2 for a Big Gun ship of any size, and the Rock-the-boat Cruiser (screws directly onto CO2 bottles) takes up too much length inside most Big Gun ships. A few more notes: MAKE SURE YOU ORDER THE LOW-PRESSURE SPRING. The high-pressure spring does 0-600 PSI, and even a slight twitch of the pressure-adjusting screw can mean anywhere from 10PSI to 50PSI change in your pressure. The low-pressure spring does 0-300 PSI, and gives you much more precision control. Also stay away from the Rock Lite; it may be smaller than other regulators, but it cannot handle the strain of regulating 800PSI liquid CO2 for long, and was designed as a secondary regulator. Palmer is a great guy, he has a long history of working with the boat clubs to deliver our needs. If you have any problems, he is glad to help fix it, and his products are top-quality stuff. There's a very good reason why I use his stuff in every boat I build.
Just a word of warning with the palmers regulators, however... if they show ANY signs of drifting pressure, send them back for repair ASAP.... Once they wear to the point of out/needing repair they can easily (personal experience) be set and checked at 150 psi and 5 minutes later be destroying gauges rated to 250psi.... They work great while they work... but any fussiness, and don't take the risk, send it back and make certain palmer checks for a slow drift (they will if asked, but you have to ask)
WOW!!! I think that I will send this Palmer back and purchase a Stabilizer. Is the Stabilizer lighter than the Palmer? I need something VERY light for the MOG!
OPS typed before I undestod what I read. I need to check if mine is a Rock or a Palmer. It is second hand so I am not sure of the condition!!!
palmer is the manufacturer. Use them, no need to overreact, just be aware. They work quite well and are light weight and handy, when properly functioning. just make sure you have a pressure relief valve in the system so that if it does wear out on you it does not cause a catastrophic failure (my mistake part two was not having a relief valve). But just be aware of the symptoms of them wearing out and don't risk fussing with it.
Palmer regulators are great, I use them in my boats. However they are designed as paintball regulators and require a little more care/attention than a lot of people give them. You need to clean and lube them regularly and replace all the soft parts (o-rings). Do that and they work well.
Proper maintenance is a must, especially if you sink a lot. IIRC both the Rock and Stabilizer have overpressure-relief valves built-in, good for dealing with a few drops of lliquid CO2 on the wrong side, but unfortunately insufficient in case of true regulator failure. I believe good overpressure-relief valves can be found at mcmaster-carr. As for which one is lighter? I honestly don't know. I always viewed them as a sort-of supreme regulator for the battleships, not for the little boats. I think that 16-gram regulator from plastic would be much better suited for a DD or such.
Greg, good news, ordered the regs from the dealer and they are going to send a couple of adapters for free! the guy I talked to in the tech dept also said that wichever adapter works best he'll send me the tech sheets for it so that we can make them ourselves! BTW hows your machining skills? everyone else, the reg themselves are $32 each and the price goes down when you buy in bulk (thats cheaper than a standard reg. so if there are people willing to make the adapters for others (the supplier doesn't want to make them because they like to do production runs in the thousands) I think this is a new and better source of regs.
I can probably work something up or talk to a local shop for some adapters... not too hard once I see one. One question, are you getting the variant for the 1/16" tube or the one that they had listed with the dual 10-32 ports? thanks Greg
Ahh, thats another perk to these regs, the reg comes with a 1/16 hose barb on the top and if thats not enough for you the tech guy told me all that one would have to do is puncture the two "ear like" areas with a drill bit and thread it with 10-32, after that just add hose barbs and you have 3 ports comming off the reg. you could also just do one and block off the 1/16 pore with epoxy or sillicone
