Under MWCI rules, I can run a second stringer, which I have placed at that joint above the stringer laid out in the kit, where the armor belt's top edge hits the upper hull, so I've got that joint backed up But looking at it, you definitely need to sheet it in three pieces in most section of the hull.
I wonder, for future projects, could pushing the stringer out from the hull the same distance as the armor thickness make it easier to work with? having the lip there instead of having to bend balsa around it might be a good option. Or I could be totally wrong. haha Just a thought. Jon
NO! You want the stringer flush with the hull so the balsa has something backing it up at the joint between the pieces of balsa, kind of like you want vertical joints between pieces of balsa to occur over the ribs...
you mentioned straight grain balsa. Were does one find this balsa? Seems like it would be incredibly useful for sheeting any ship.
for balsa, you have to buy a bunch and sort it. for the rings, I will have to check. they were a bit of an afterthought as there was some spare space to be filled on the plywood.
Were are you thinking of putting your pump outlet/s? I am allowed two 1/4" outlets and was thinking of putting them at an angle out of the step portion of the deck. Thoughts? Thanks, Jon
I was thinking possibly out the step at 45 degrees possibly use it to spray potential torpedo cruisers trying to sneak up on me. Also I dont think I want water dumped onto the lower deck. hmmm experimentation is in the near future i think.
I was looking at horizontal out the step. My stern deck has two coats of West soaked into it, and a good deck seal. With a mighty pump stream, it'll spray my opponents into submission And I won't have to worry about soaking anyone's radios like I did with Scharnie's 45-degree stream at last Nats. Fixed it in Scharnie's winter refit, but why build it into a new build with Roma? : )
I was thinking of putting a float in the aft to help protect my props and rudder when the inevitable happens and have to pull her off the bottom. One of the guys in WWCC has his outlet on his Iowa out the side with a 90 degree angle out then down. Was thinking of doing something like that.
so one propulsion change. I did not like how the bushings and the shafting interacted under the pull of the pulley. problem was I did not double up the bushings like I should have to keep the shaft from bending in under load. the solution below is easy and an even better option than the alternatives, everything still slips out and is removable, but now the pulleys work proeprly
I am about to start painting Impero and was wondering were the scale waterline is supposed to be? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Jon
2.65 inches up from the bottom of the wood ribs in the center of the boat. if you have added significant thickness via glass, add that thickness to the amount. I will try to remember to add that to the plans
I can say this, my silkspanning skills have gone to pot... and it doesn't help when it is 95F in the shade
