So taking the teeth off the inserts noted previously solves all the problems... and it takes about 3 minutes or less with a dremel. now for the pictures of the rudder servo and rudder mount structure. Gives you more than half an inch of adjustment in the fore/aft direction and about that in port/stbd direction. that is there to take up slop in the two chain drive chains and to allow a proper tension on them. this setup has the added advantage of providing less of a cantaliver load on the servo output spline than you might have with the servo aft of the rudder posts. It also leaves that room available for valving, accumulators, electronics, etc.
stuffing tube assembly has begun. I will have pictures of how I am doing the installation, but for me it takes two different tube cutters, one with a fresh blade and one with a very dull blade. I am trying a different bushing than in the past (and I am still making the stuffing tubes removable, they will slide in/out easily) in that I am using SAE 863 rather than 841 bushings. they are definitely harder than the 841 bushings. We will see how they work.
That was just a test fit. now back apart for sanding. Rudder servo mount test fit below Note to self. don't crimp when the cutting tool is to sharp. just find the dull one. for crimping in the bushings I use a sharp tube cutter to cut the tube and to start the crimp, then a very dull one to crimp a ring into the bushing.
The parts shown below are intended to help align and rigidify the hull. they are BY NECESSITY tight. every rib should be trial fitted to those horizontal stiffeners BEFORE attempting hull assembly. the fit should be tight but NOT SNAP TIGHT. adjust with sandpaper. I would recommend using the etching on the stiffeners to rough shape them before assembly. break out the dremel and you have a 10 minute job. When ready begin installing the stiffeners. (remember, this is a one time process, these do not come out again, make sure all other hull parts have been trial fit (Deck, lower keels, etc) prior to this stage of assembly, as after this, she does not come back apart). I suggest a good TV show and floor to work on (or couch and table) as this takes a bit of time. the two stiffeners must be worked in, one at a time until they are close, but after close, they have to be worked in together. durring this process, they will look like they don't fit, this is just deflection in the stiffener or the rest of the hull (which is fairly flexible in the insertion direction without the stiffeners) the stiffeners themselves are two pieces and should be fit together prior to beginning this process. Now you can see some of the remaining rib sanding needed, easy to do once assembled. I have some closed cell foam rubber sanding blocks bought from an auto body supply store that are very handy for this process (one is a 1.5" diameter semi-flexible 12" long bar) below is what it looks like installed. make sure the etched marks on the stiffeners are DOWN. After this, the main deck gets installed, although I am debating putting it on glass and bonding the bottom of the hull together now.
Well, all the parts of the hull are finally fit. They have all been tacked in place with thin CA. the final shaping will come next follwed by waterproofing then more hull construction
Now I just need to figure out how I am going to waterproof it. I decided I wanted to do a two step waterproofing, one in this form and a second once the bottom of the hull is installed... Still debating west systems vs spar varnish vs other options/combinations
Brian Koehler and I did our twin Vanguards in spar varnish, and his is still fine (mine was sold and no idea where it went). Small hulls I do with West, a little at a time as I have epoxy left over after small jobs (like potting electronics). Bigger ones cry for Spar Varnish
I was thinking about that. I read somewhere (trying to find link) that a particular varnish followed by west systems was superior to either by itself
We did two coats of spar varnish. Really, if your boat is in the water more than a real boat, you lost it at the last battle weekend
yeah, although one of the problems around here is the preference for salt water pools... so I am considering accordingly, at least for short term fitout and float testing
I think salt water pools are all the rage around here as well, though there are no shortage of freshwater lakes & ponds in my area. I would be curious as well what people have done to protect their models against salt water.
I'm not sure how model ship builders do it, but when building kayaks, the order is opposite - West Systems first and then spar varnish. The epoxy penetrates wood and holds the fiberglass cloth in place, while the spar varnish provides UV protection and can be sanded and reapplied as it is damaged. Since our ships don't spend an appreciable time in the sun, I didn't think the spar varnish over the epoxy was necessary.
good to know... I wonder if this stuff would be worth trying either below a coat of west systems... http://www.seal-once.com/index.php Either way, I don't have the space right now inside and it is far too hot in the garage, so I have to wait a bit.
FedEx dropped mine off today. Was a bit worried at first, I heard a thud and discovered the package half on / half off my porch, and then the contents were a bit rattley... Opened it up and everything looks good though. No time to assemble anytime soon though, so I shall have to live vicariously through watching Greg's build come together.
Greg, Opened up my Kit today....I'm in the process of moving....and took a peek at the parts, OMG!! What an AWESOME job you did. The frames and everything are absolutely OUTSTANDING. I can't wait to glue by fingers together building this ship. It's going to be a beautiful fighting ship once she is completed. You did great...THANK YOU for a job well done!!
Good to hear. I am working on mine very slowly, I just got motors, driveshafts built (although with the length the longer ones will be splint for a third bushing) and I am waiting on balsa. this definately won't be the last kit I create, been looking at the mackensen for a bit now, will see this winter if I can find suitable documentation...
Alright, just a note. One fellow (who already has his ship more built than mine (shakes fist)) wanted a second kit. if there is more interest let me know now. would be identical to the kit shown in this thread.
Wow, so many possibilities....how do you choose? A Fletcher class destroyer would be cool. A Queen Elizabeth class battleship would be a real challange and span two world wars. Geeez sooooo many ships, so little time!! If I may suggest Greg.....pick a unique classic warship from each of the major antagonists and put out one or two kit runs a year. Your work is outstanding and would be a great boon for the sport! I will certainly be first on your list of builders for each kit you produce. Again, THANK YOU!!
I will have to look into that. the problem with uniques is that sometimes they are too unique and the information available is insufficient. I am still contemplating next...
