Lj's USS Texas(BB-35) SJS 3D Print complete Kit build

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by LjWolf303, Feb 14, 2025.

  1. Nomercy

    Nomercy Well-Known Member

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    Ahhhh ..... dremel tool
     
  2. bsgkid117

    bsgkid117 Vendor

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    Looks awesome!
    Basically a small angle grinder.

    @LjWolf303 looks great!
     
  3. LjWolf303

    LjWolf303 Member

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    Thank you!!!
     
  4. LjWolf303

    LjWolf303 Member

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    Todays entry

    Hull

    We finished the primer and then painted the top deck that midnight blue. It looks so cool!!! I’m so thrilled how its coming together!

    I added a sneak peak of the side profile color.

    I do have serious questions:
    When should I balsa & tape? Before or after painting?
    How do I balsa around my stringers?
    How do I find my water line? That's after I balsa.

    I just don't know what to do?

    Problem with finding the water line is having the weight of BBs, CO2 tank, and all necessary electronics.
     

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    Last edited: Apr 7, 2025
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  5. LjWolf303

    LjWolf303 Member

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    Today’s update

    Hull
    I painted it red and repaired some stringers. They keep coming off after I epoxy them then zip tie dry over night. Then move on to the next step but can’t because of those dam things. I want to dog screen and balsa but can’t. This is the JB Weld I have been using for the stringers. I first used the syringe. Then moved to the bottles because I can make it harder.

    Tomorrow
    I’m taking a break from working on the boat.
     

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  6. bsgkid117

    bsgkid117 Vendor

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    Are you pre-bending them to try to match the shape of the boat?

    The stringers definitely can be annoying, I just have no better method at this time.

    I would suggest using the two part JB weld "cold weld" or the plastic bonder.

    https://a.co/d/8dx5Qba

    https://a.co/d/iWoeq4N

    I have used both of these to good success when stringers weren't cooperating and kept popping out at the extreme ends.

    I will say that your method with the zip ties was creative, I didn't think of that. I normally use a million little clamps.

    From this point you are basically done the kit construction. You can start putting the functional internal parts in the boat. I would highly recommend doing the internal armor dog screen before you commit to balsa or anything like that. It will get in the way. The balsa sheeting is the absolute last step because you will appreciate the ability to reach through the side of the boat if you need to for some things.

    When the time comes to put the sheeting on the boat, The stringers are there to help the balsa make sharp turns and such that it otherwise would not be capable of making. You may even end up needing to stop a sheet of balsa halfway across a stringer and then start a new one just to prevent it from cracking. When the time comes for that step definitely ask for advice because there are MANY methods to prep balsa and sheet a boat. The Malaya kit that I sell is not quite as bad as Texas with stringers but can be quite annoying because it has a very sharp double bulge. Check out other build threads to see what people did on those to get the balsa to attach.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2025
  7. LjWolf303

    LjWolf303 Member

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    I was pre bending them after they kept popping off the first side. Okay. That's kind of what I was thinking of doing. Dog screen then all internals. Then balsa last.

    So, check my ender standing. Cut balsa to the stringer? Then start again, with a new piece?
    [​IMG]
     
  8. LjWolf303

    LjWolf303 Member

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    upload_2025-4-9_17-28-19.png

    Is this what you meant?
     
  9. vicious p

    vicious p Well-Known Member

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    that can totally work. I ended up wetting the outside of my balsa with paper towels to soften it up to prevent cracking while I molded it to all of the contours of the hull. You do not want to get the backside wet you are attaching to the hull as then you will have issues getting it to stick and stay put.

    Definately leave that for last though. Get everything in with all systems working then sheet last for sure.

    When you get everything in the hull duct tape the hull and cut it out where the windows are.
    Then apply silkspan to the back of the balsa and start cutting it up to go down the ship. It doesn’t have to be perfect so don’t beat yourself up over it you just want it to be sealed and you will insure that is done by applying silkspan after the whole side is sheeted which waterproofs any small gaps you may have. It’s going to get shot up so it’s ok if it’s not perfect that boat is going to look awesome on the water!
     
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  10. LjWolf303

    LjWolf303 Member

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    So, balsa to stringers. Then in the areas I left open, go over in small pieces of balsa. First, Gorilla tape ribs. Second, contact cement and tissue paper (my silk span) let it dry and cure. Third, soak the combo to help mold to the shape. Fourth, contact cement then silk span and paint once done.

    after electronics and co2 is complete
     
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  11. vicious p

    vicious p Well-Known Member

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  12. LjWolf303

    LjWolf303 Member

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    I've watched this at least 6 times. now