looking into the hobby

say I went 14.8v with these batteries

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/multist...mah-multi-rotor-lipo-pack.html?___store=en_us

2 should be fine for a battle, and charging them inbetween would work for a second battle

the multi-b board is good for 15v
for an ESC, I would use the Holmes Hobby BR-XL. it was a 5 amp 6 volt bec, which with the multi b, it would just need to power the steering servo and the reciever, and activate the multib board to turn on the pump and fire the cannons.

 

So correct me if I am wrong, But when that Batt is fully charged its at 16.8 volts, Is that enough to damage the Multi B?????? what charger are you going to use? does that charger work off your car Battery? not all ponds have outlets attached to them. Those Batts require balancing so depending on how much yacking we do between sorties you might have time to charge them or you might not(ymmv). The ESC, I assume you already have otherwise why spend that kind of money when you can get the Hobbywing 60A ESC, waterproofed for less than 1/3 the price.


Craig

 

FYI, you do not have to balance charge those batteries all the time. You can use a standard charge cycle (doesn't balance each cell) if you need a faster charge. Just be sure to balance the cells and discharge the battery to storage level before storing them in a NON-FLAMMABLE container.
But, this weekend at Carl's I could charge two 5amp lipos on a balance cycle between battles so it's not impossible to balance charge batteries at a battle.

 

they would be the 16.8v, i'm hoping the board could take the extra bit. I need to buy a new charger anyways, so i was planning on buying one that would work, most rc ones I've seen that are of decent quality all have DC input. The iMax B6 has been a decent budget charger out at the racetrack, and they aren't too expensive. also from what I can tell, they balance charge while charging and after the main cycle. I do plan to get more eventually, but this is a compromise of getting good batteries now, rather than heavy SLA batteries that I have enough of to last me a while, that I will eventually replace anyways for better batteries down the line.

The BRXL ESC is 6s cabable, it's pretty much a Castle Sidewinder converted to only brushed. I don't have one, however, the hobbywing will only go up to 3s, so even though I'm taking a risk with the multi B board, I'm not taking as big of one with the esc. I do have a program card as I have a mamba max pro esc, and the card works for the BRXL.

if I could get away with 150wh per battle, I'd go down to a 3s lipo voltage, and also drop down to the hobbywing, and be able to use my current charger for the time being to get out on the water (I would eventually get a better quality charger, but wouldn't need to right off the bat). I'd run 2 8,000 mah batteries in parallel for 16,000mah, which would be more than the 150wh, but not quite the 200wh, i'd say about half way in between (actually I'd say 177.6 wh, 2.6 more than half way between the 150 and 200 wh) I suppose a third battery could be added to the 3s lipos to increase the capacity they would have, but then I'd need to buy another charger if I wanted to charge all 3 at a time.)

as for the ship, I plan to get the ship kit from BC, so hull, decks, and superstructure. The VDT and Konig are both available as a kit, and I would also buy the respective hardware kit.

 

The voltage reg on that board is rated to 24v according to the manufacturer, so you should be ok running a bit over 15v. The limiting factor on the Multi-B keeping it at 15v may be the FET's being used to switch the cannons and pump. Most FET's can easily switch 24v but without seeing the part numbers of the components in use, I'd stick with the BC's max voltage rating.

 

well the cost difference between the holmes hobby esc and the hobbywing are more than 1 battery, so I think I'll go with 3 of the 8000mah 3s lipos. that's more enough power for one battle with 266.4 wh, and it'll be almost as fast as a 12v system. I don't need to buy a charger, but will eventually so i can charge them all at one time. and it's low enough voltage the hobbywing and multi-b board will work. also won't need, but will have low voltage cutoff with the ESC.

 

Now you see why I like BIG ships. Cheaper and easier to gear up on the drive system end. A 6v system is my current flavor of choice as it is cheap and simple and the sla Batts will last all day then can be slow charged over night. But it don't fit so well in smaller ships lol.

 

that is true. I am still up in the air now though, as I am planning to build a moped out of a used bike, so I can save gas money, and need a battery option for lights.

a 12v 20ah SLA battery is about the same cost as one of those 3s lipos, but does way 14 pounds. If I could use that in a ship, and for lights on the bike, I may be able to cut the cost out if the ship project and say it's for the bike project

 

I like the 6v 4ah small bricks. You can wire them in parallel for larger ships, or series to get 12v+. On a big boat you use 4, 6, or 8, Batts then a small ship can use one batt and have several sitting for changes if needed. And the entire system is cheap. I like cheap for stuff that A) Gets wet every time out.
B) Gets used only a few times a year.
C) Needs spares on hand for every part in the system or you may sit out a battle for the lack of one.

 

as the weather is getting better, I am getting more anxious to get out to the GLAS pond come the end of May. I also see some things have been put up for sale in the buy/sell/trade section.

 

is there a list of what's available for laser cut hulls? I know a fiberglass one is suggested to start, but how much harder would a laser cut hull be?

 

How much harder? Depends on your woodworking skills. These are framing kits, not complete hull kits. There is significant work required to complete one of these kits out to a floating model.

https://rcwarshipcombat.com/threads/sms-deutschland-build.445111/#post-512882

Dude, this thread is up to eleven pages now. You need to bite the bullet and buy a hull! That Konig for sale is an excellent deal.

 

i see said the blind man to his deaf wife. Looks more involved than I want to be, at least for a first boat.

I know I need to do something. That Nassau for sale is good looking too, and that's looks pretty much ready to be sheeted and armed.

I'm gonna wait until the Memorial Day event in Saranac first though.


one thing I don't think I've seen, and can probably answer my own question about, is how the non powered props get attached. I'm gonna guess just epoxied to the hull on the outside.

 

Yep, glued to the outside works. Some people have them go through the hull like regular shafts but that's not necessary.

 

I prefer to install all the shafts then power only the one\ones I need and drag disk\prop the other\others. This gives you options. But I like to experiment.

 

Welcome aboard

 

I had a lot of fun, I can't wait to do it again. I did learn a lot too getting to see them up close and in action, and seeing all the support equipment too I now know what to bring for next time, and what to bring when I get my ship going.

I think my choice of the Nassau will be a great starting ship, and will be a good ship for quite a while as well. It isn't going to be running away from anyone, but that just means I'll have to get good at positioning the ship. Once I get good there, I think I'll get something with some speed, but that is far on down the road. I can't wait to get the Nassau going.