looking into the hobby

as it stands right now, I will be going to the May event in Saranac, both days if I'm able to, Saturday for sure.

once I get a ship, I'll be going here mostly as it's an hour away, and I have family only about 10-15 minutes away.

With The Maryland, If I want 4 guns what fire control thing would I need? I'd have 1 gun for each side, and 2 off the rear. I guess I would need to know the same for the Des Moines, those are all rear guns.

Would I be better off having the rear guns fire independently, that way I can shoot one and run it out, then switch to another gun? would probably do that with the Des Moines, as I could vary my fire of the 3 when needed, but on the Maryland use the 2 rear together for more firepower compared one of the 2 side cannons.

edit: I realize that last part doesn't make any sense. With the cannon set ups, what would be useful for firing sequence, and what would I need to buy for fire controls for it? (I guess I needed to just wake up a bit more more often, 12 hour shifts these last few days haven't been too kind)

 

You can use a pop it valve actuated by a servo or you can use solenoids operated by a firing board. The latter being the most expensive option but giving the best rate of fire.

 

do the BC kits come with either a pop-it valve or a solonoid?

also, I was thinking of having all 3 cannons shoot separately on a Des Moines, but if I go with the Maryland, I'd want 1 cannon on each side, and 2 in the rear, and was thinking the rear 2 could fire together. unless it's easier/cheaper to do them all separate. but how would I do that, say I go with the solenoids and a firing board?

 

My cruiser is poppets and is currently set up to fire the stern twin cannons separately. Battlers sells both solenoids and poppet components. Like rcnut said, poppets are cheaper, but solenoids are better. I plan to eventually upgrade my cruiser a firing board and solenoids. Personally for Des Moines I'd recommend the triple cannons firing together. Triple fire can pack a bit of punch when aimed correctly. As a cruiser, you will be playing run and gun, and it's better to save ammo for the right time and unload a more dangerous salvo using triples.

There is a "cruiser firing board" offered by Battler's that allows you to fire stern guns separately or simultaneously, but it's designed for dual, not triple stern guns. You'd have to email BC or ask around for people who've used this firing board to see if/how it can be adapted for triples.

For the Maryland, stern twins should be firing together. You would need 1 firing board for the twin sterns, and 1 firing board for the 2 side mounts. The two side mounts can be controlled by toggling the stick left or right. (Ex: left stick movement fires left sidemount, right stick fires right).

So: Both sidemounts can be controlled by one of this:
http://battlersconnection.com/dual-firing-board/

And one of this for your stern guns:
http://battlersconnection.com/single-firing-board/

In addition, 1 solenoid is needed for each gun. 4 solenoids total for Maryland.

Ex. for solenoid:
http://battlersconnection.com/combat-gear-solenoid-npt/

If you elect for the Des Moines 3 solenoids needed, and 1 single firing board only.

 

I recommend using solenoids with expansion tanks as they just work better. You add the tanks to the solenoids so you don't have to find solenoids with them already. The ones I have are from clippard. I will get you a part # when I get home.

 

15 degree offset trips converging at one point might be fun.

 

BC now makes integrate firing, pump, and power distribution boards. It’s called the ‘multi-b’ I think, you only need one of these board to control all guns and the pump. With triple sterns you will want them to all fire together, way more effective

 

Whoa, I never realized that board existed until now. That's an awesome board to have.

 

Only downside I see to the integrated board is if it fails EVERYTHING fails. With main power, pump, and guns all on separate boards you only lose the one system at one time. Not something I see happening often just that its possible. I will probably be going integrated as the loss of one system usually leads to a sink anyways. Lol.

 

Only the loss of pump is a definite sink. The loss of the other systems can definitely contribute but as long as the pump works you have a chance.

 

Not necessarily. I mean if you try I'm sure you could break the whole board, but the power distribution is independent from each function, so fault of one component wont necessarily take out everything.

And if you put everything in perspective of the baseline reliability of a lot of boats is pretty low, the integrated board provides a major simplification and should significantly improve reliability of some boats

 

I was making a blanket statement without having a circuit diagram to know that was the case. Either way if you read what I posted I DID say it wasn't a MAJOR concern and likely would never be an issue. So thank you for the info it makes it an easier decision to make. And it definitely will simplify the wiring ECT.

 

so always fire as many guns together as possible. got it.

being that I am trying to re-use my lipo batteries if i can, would that multi-b work? i would want to use the low voltage cutoff on the ESC. I guess I can figure it all out when I get there, and probably should get some other batteries just for this anyways, so I don't have to worry about that. Also wouldn't be able to lose the lipos i use for other stuff i have in battle if i don't use them. I might even go as far as getting a new charger, just because the one I have isn't super great but works for what I have, i think i should get a better one, and I only have dean connectors while it looks like the XT connectors are used. I could just set up a whole separate box with tools, chargers, batteries, and such for the hobby, as i'll probably need more than what I have for my cars, or things that i wouldn't really need for my cars.

 

The board comes with the respective opposite connectors that you could solder on to your components, or you could use them to make up adapters to go from XT to dean or whatever you want. You will need to do some soldering regardless of which board you get, but now with the multi-b there is really no reason to buy the separate boards (there are a few unique scenarios, I try to speak to general advice most useful to new people)

The multi-b would not impact the protection to your batteries from low voltage (if you are using the same batteries for the pump in both cases). Overall I would say you should ensure you have enough batteries on board such that you won't be fully discharging batteries or reaching the max discharge rate (see previous post about batteries)

 

I don't see why you couldn't just monitor them. Just be diligent about it. You could also get a radio with telemetry to alert you when the battery gets low. The Chinese radios are getting pretty fancy and darn cheap. I may finally retire my trusty Futaba 9c's.

 

I have been well known for letting the magic smoke out of components, but its pretty darn difficult to fry a whole board. I was just going to risk it as the benefits outweigh the risk in my case but now I see my concern was somewhat higher than it needed to be.

 

I'll still probably end up getting new batteries and a new charger for it. keep my land stuff on land. and water on water.

 

Good point. And I am fond of the 550 can motors. Super cheap and reliable.