You can disagree with me, but you'll still be wrong While I respect your opinions if you want to ring the schoolbell on me, don't try to do it in a field that I taught at the nuclear power training command First: CEMF != load [in fact, they are inversely proportional to each other] Second: Torque is proportional to current flow. Yes, voltage matters. Greatly. Because the potential difference is what inspires the otherwise lazy electrons to move from point to point. So voltage matters, as it makes current flow. But voltage doesn't affect torque as much as current. Third: Power does not make the motor go roundy-roundy, it is a reflection of other factors that do. To anyone else still reading, Justin and I have had this collegial debate for quite a while, and if it seems like we're arguing, we are, just in a friendly manner, with no malice involved These are after all, little motors for toy boats
i remember when this started on another thread and it was good. this should be a good one too. but i still dont know whos right.
Thinking of the 'shooting when the power is out' is there a switch I could use to switch the reciever from the main battery to a reciever battery when the main battery drops too low to support the firing of the cannons?
I love my Tuggy! There is now way on earth he could possibly offend me. So, Tuggy... CEMF, yes you are right... I had to re-look it up. (I hate the physics terms, they are always too acronym laden for my taste & I forget which one means what. CEMF is magnetically stored voltage, or the reason we like to pair relays with diodes. You are suggesting that a motor needs no voltage drop on it at all. It will operate purely on current? IFF there is current, then the motor will spin? I guess there is some amount of possibility in that. Ampere said, the magnetic field around wire is proportional to the electric current through that wire. (paraphrased) Would that also suggest that a higher voltage motor is simply one with a stronger permanent magnet, or more turns? (therefore requiring less current to derive the same magnetic field? Strangely enough, there is some possibility in what you are saying. This actually deserves a test. I will try to find 2 cheap-a$$ motors to day and wire them in series. I still don't think it will work the way you suggest. But... *sigh*... it is possible; although it feels like a myth. :jadfer: If you use my first battery wire pattern, you will be able to run your boat to a stand-still & sill be able to shoot until you are out of C02 or shells. or both. If you are running a 7.2 backup & a xV main I suggest just using the 7.2 for electronics & xV for motors.. Less complicated, more robust. Otherwise, I suggest using a diode between the main & the backup so the main charges the backup, but the diode prevents the other way around. Then just run the electrics off the backup. SO, basically take my first batter wire pattern and put a diode between the batteries '+' symbol. Diode needs to be facing the main battery. I think you would be happier with two batteries with the same V though.
Thanks to my own personal laziness & a fluke by one of our new members... Visit this site Notice how they are wired, Notice the one with a prop (higher load) starts to spin & then stops. Additionally, you can hear one of the others (probably the other motor in series with the prop) spin up very very high.
Which is what I would expect. The one with load would stop (not stall) & the other would spin faster Tuggy: lets keep the theoretical conversation on this thread & helping him (& maybe a little research) on the other one? I want to help him get started & continue with this discussion without confusing the crap out of him.
Sounds good to me, I hate having the debate part split into two threads AFAIK, when you load a DC motor past stall torque, you have stalled the motor. In AC motors, this is very bad, called slipping a pole. (has nothing to do with our current (pun!) discussion, just fun info
My Des Moines class is rigged for "Auxilliary Power". I have a high discharge NIMH pack for the RX, and is tied to an R/C switch and relay so that I can flip a switch on the TX and have it provide power to the motors instead of main power. This can come in handy after a day of fleeing from the Axis horde, although after switching to high discharge NIMH packs in the ship from SLA, I haven't needed to use it anymore. But it's always good to know that should main power go out, I can flip over to Auxilliary and still get home though. Cheers Jeff
For the LST and minimum speed, some ships (like my Espana) just cannot go full tilt 24 knots. She can go at most 20 knots (BigGun scale) prolonged, which is barely above her actual trials speed of 19 knots. Her hullform really isn't conducive for speed, so outside of a burst or two of 24 when absolutely necessary, I ease back on the stick to keep from taking any more water over the deck than is absolutely necessary.
