Mackensen outfitting

ok so the hull is already completed and been tested on the water as essentially a essentially an rc model. So this thread will follow the Mac through it’s fitting out so I can ask questions.

The first question is what do y’all think the best set up for motors will be. The first picture shows the aft two turret locations. Currently the motors are sitting are way to big and sitting right under the turret. I was thinking of mounting them on the sides of the shafts but do not know how to accomplish this or where to get needed parts. Thoughts?
The second picture is of the A&B turrets

Other items on to do list is sealing the wood on the inside of the hull

 

Yes big gun. I was considering mounting them to the outside of the shafts facing forward. I believe this will, with smaller motors, give me the needed clearance. The issue I have is where does one get the gears needed or even belts to drive them?

The first picture shows the motors moved aft and to the side the second shows motors aft to the side of shafts facing forward. The third shows that either of these moves will clear space for C turret.
No mater what I do I need to install smaller motors. These are big 550s lol

 

Is that a Kit!? did you do that lasercut or was that Mark Jenks?

Battler's connection has the gears. @Beaver had a belt drive on his KEVIII for a while. He can probably help

 

I had no idea Strike had them at one point. It is a truly amazing kit

 

I wish I had Greg’s talent lol

 

I’ve always liked the look of the gear boxes that battlers connection sells. Would I be able to use them here? Get x2 of theses: http://battlersconnection.com/380-single-output-gear-box/ and tilt them so the motors sit closer to the hull? Can you face the motor backwards?

 

I might just try it. Each one is 20$ so that would be a 40$ experiment lol

 

Oh good point

 

No progress. Going to be ordering some parts here from BC after next paycheck.

 

Ok small update. Finally had a few minutes to go into the garage. Not much has been done to the hull but I have pretty much decided that, even though there are no leaks, I did an absolutely terrible job sheeting him which means.....time to resheet the whole thing! The pictures show some of the issues I can see and do not like.
An added benefit of tearing the sheeting off is it will allow me to get inside the hull to seal the wood. And give different angles to work with when installing ships systems.

Apart from sealing the wood before making major installs of ship systems I also need to fill and level either side of the water channeling to prevent water from just building up in one area instead of flowing to the channel and then to the pump. I think I may use the self leveling concrete filler stuff I used on my Impero build.

 

I was going to say something stupid, but then realized your balsa Lofting was not flush with the tops of the ribs.

Not trying to divert you from your chosen path, but it may help weight distro (maneuver) if you fill the pesky voids in the bow and stern with balsa and sand it into tolerance in situ. then you can concentrate the weight in the core of the hull (with that self-leveling sealant perhaps?).

I'm burned out on the sealant stuff. it's making a lot of the refitting I want to do on my Texas nigh impossible, so I am thinking of ripping it out, flushing down to the lofting, and redoing the whole thing. I'd fill most of the spots with balsa blocks, sand to tolerance, and then in recessed spots, mix some ballast lead with epoxy and drop it in. (I'd glass over the whole thing after it's done)

Anywho, I love the pics. keep on keepin' on.

 

lol dude I never thought of doing that on a boat this small. I'm building a fishing kayak this winter with pink foam!

What are you using as a hot wire cutter?

 

I’m always open to suggestions. I am considering the balsa route. I also like the foam. We use it when building layouts for model railroads and it is very good stuff. I have to wait and see how big the voids are but I think I did a much better job on not haveing a lot of space having to be filled and leveled.

 

If you go with foam, it might make things easier. you could cut a chunk of foam out, plop it in between the ribs, then come back with a hot wire cutter and cut it to shape.
Don't glue the foam blocks in until you have them all fitted.
When you cut with a hot wire, you're using the ribs to either side as a guide, so your hot wire prongs will be sticking down into the spaces to either side (hence, don't glue them in so you can pull them out and use that clearance to form the next space down)

Here's a link to a DIY foam cutter to give you an idea of the clearance I'm talking about: https://hackaday.com/2018/02/08/build-a-tiny-hot-wire-foam-cutter/

you can buy a foam wire cutter on amazon for like 20 bucks. my buddies and I use them to make surfboards, I'm making a fishing kayak with foam this winter.... these things are fantastic.

Dangit, Greg, Why didn't I think to use it on a project this small!?

 

I like hot wire foam cutters. I need to get a new one anyways for my railroad layout build haha.

Woodland scenics makes and sells one for $20 ish as well