Make Class 1 Great Again

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by Kevin P., Nov 10, 2017.

  1. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2015
    Posts:
    1,725
    Location:
    Chantilly, VA
    Here is another project that we thought up a few months ago. If the allies can’t win by slugging it out, maybe we should try hit and run with a bunch of tiny ships! Decided to make a plug and mold to get a few of them on the water next year.
    Started with Goff plans, the profile of the ship was decent, the hull sections left a lot to be desired. I️ modifies the hull sections to better match the shape of the real ship in the stern, and to add 7/16” of depth to the hull for the extra weight allowed. I️ scanned the hull sections and edited in PowerPoint based on the simplicity of the editing functions, here is the end result printed out. I️ cut them right above the waterline and shifted everything up so the shear should remain scale
    D8EBCBE3-5260-4B7A-A378-659361306FBD.jpeg
    Next they were cut up in prep for tracing them onto the wood
    95C81DE6-5D30-411C-B73A-652D6DE541F6.jpeg
    Here are the half hull sections, I️ added two more in at the stern to get the shape
    84A95822-A1A1-4211-87A8-B419492824ED.jpeg
    Also cut the profile at the same location and offset the upper piece by the same distance
    DDDA212A-176A-4A83-8552-F1A7EE8976BD.jpeg
    Traced onto wood
    A0AE4A68-C87D-4283-B758-0802AC331CB3.jpeg
    Stern
    A01A8B89-5A9B-4BDC-9563-A84563071B47.jpeg
    Faired the bow and stern
    4090FEEB-D70D-45FA-935B-1FEB860FB0D0.jpeg
    Stern
    93446581-D928-4888-8CF4-F87176FE9576.jpeg
    Traced out the hull sections
    A2224C8A-7B85-43F5-8C69-8F435BB809F2.jpeg
    Cut an 1/8” slot to fit in the keel piece
    50ED5371-ACB1-4BEC-A6FB-19BCB7893D7E.jpeg
    Next made the deck build board, used the leftover piece from the keel and made a duplicate to match
    72F3DDF2-9083-4D9F-A6BA-BA7B2AEA19B4.jpeg
    Here is the keel piece cut out
    8F0643E7-74B0-4C97-89D9-D82B2B1F5D93.jpeg
    Build board with deck
    BB4CD285-1116-4BFF-BE7C-42050180F2A6.jpeg
    Deck step close up
    289361DE-52AD-42FF-A5CA-CEDEA70A9447.jpeg
    Attached keel
    84166F27-C6AE-427C-9E2A-2272749BC6A2.jpeg
    Side view
    D098AACA-E188-4408-9A29-E941B94EBF44.jpeg
    Test fit of hull sections
    38E9D95B-EEEC-4DEE-96F8-D5AB31252A1B.jpeg
    Section pieces were glued in place using small pieces of balsa
    9E0A8244-F29D-4EF9-A280-FA4B05192A73.jpeg
    31371839-8BB5-4E32-A146-B0F1995AD67A.jpeg
    65E048CB-BAAC-4AED-AE93-9A00995B4161.jpeg
    Plan is to fill the sections with pink foam, then cut and sand down, followed by spakle, paint, joint compound, repeat
     
    SteveT44 and Beaver like this.
  2. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Posts:
    3,677
    Location:
    Central PA
    Is this the ship you mentioned at Carl's?
     
  3. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2015
    Posts:
    1,725
    Location:
    Chantilly, VA
    Yea it is. The foam was cut and glued today, it took way longer than I️ predicted, ate up my whole build day. Used this glue that was more or less white Elmer’s, hopefully it holds well. This method took way long than the spray foam, I️ might try the two part mix foam if I️ do this again. Here are a couple pictures, this is the bow
    2108FF98-E319-4382-BC0B-82A17793C8A4.jpeg
    And the stern
    77F3AB97-426F-420B-92F1-BF0FC40644EC.jpeg
    Plan is to do a rough cut/sand in the morning, hopefully up to the point of the first layer of spakle
     
    Lou and Bsquared like this.
  4. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Posts:
    3,677
    Location:
    Central PA
    Cool, you can figure me in for a hull if you want. :)
     
  5. Lou

    Lou It's just toy boats -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2008
    Posts:
    2,095
    Location:
    Smyrna, Georgia
    If you have a belt sander, pink is the way to go (just do it outside). Another option is a hot wire knife, the railroad guys use it for all the scenery displays (cuts like butter)
     
  6. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2015
    Posts:
    1,725
    Location:
    Chantilly, VA
    Sounds good Caleb

    And Lou, unfortunately I don't have a belt sander or an outside really to work, so I have to stick to more primitive means like a hack saw blade, sanding blocks, and a dremel. Here are a few pictures of my progress on Sunday.
    Here is the full block
    E43ACC08-AF8E-43EF-AEF9-52248592A17D.jpeg
    Different view
    42790D7C-52FA-4FC2-B911-FFC0474414FC.jpeg
    Rough cut
    A6124518-4D3D-4110-8BE2-72822B65EEF4.jpeg
    Rough cut on the port side is almost there, starboard needs more time. The key is dealing with the glue on the joints, so I have been dremeling the glue off the ribs as it becomes accessible. The rib spacing in the middle also isn't ideal, since the spacing is larger than a sanding block which makes it slightly more difficult
    DB50A306-416F-46E9-8984-6801A16A9B21.jpeg
    Hopefully I will find some time this weekend to get to the first layer of filler and paint
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2017
    Beaver, Lou and SteveT44 like this.
  7. warspiteIRC

    warspiteIRC RIP

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2008
    Posts:
    756
    Location:
    Annapolis, MD
    w have belt sanders at the shop!
     
    Kevin P. likes this.
  8. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2009
    Posts:
    1,856
    Location:
    MD
    IMO, a belt sander would be overkill on that little plug. Stick with sanding blocks.
     
    Kevin P. likes this.
  9. thegeek

    thegeek Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2008
    Posts:
    1,164
    Location:
    Mongo
    I have the finished hull from that plug, no it isn't too small for a belt sander.
     
  10. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2015
    Posts:
    1,725
    Location:
    Chantilly, VA
    I was able to get back to work today, finished sanding down the starboard side. After sanding the foam down I filled the larger gaps with spackle. After the spackle dried I put on a coat of paint to serve as a base layer to start to get a smoother finish. The only major gap I have to fill with spackle again is one section where I cut the foam too short. The rest of the hull will be covered with joint compound to get a uniform finish, then sanded, painted, repeat until it reaches the 'good enough' point

    8BDA8BB6-81B8-4913-A23C-1A4A2AE9328D.jpeg
    506133ED-120F-48B5-B8F6-36F13DC2A7FE.jpeg
    B6250FE5-8A34-4F50-8C86-B13E0EC3C7F6.jpeg
    B4B5E6C9-8A62-4CBE-9D11-3C5C7B109087.jpeg
    7601AAF0-CE7D-4D00-9186-A35B96204A4A.jpeg
    E72A73F1-CCA6-44DA-AFBC-4D8BF478377A.jpeg
    095ED430-D1EF-4C2D-94D2-B857938577FA.jpeg
    D88E0357-9D53-4E48-930F-8F8273DD981F.jpeg
    D46202A0-8BFC-465E-8CA9-2581390E984A.jpeg
    82B14BA6-6626-4D56-9F0D-1DCA266F2ECB.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2017
  11. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2015
    Posts:
    1,725
    Location:
    Chantilly, VA
    I got the first couple layers of joint compound down. Here is layer 1 drying, going for full coverage and filling in any low areas, primarily on the corners
    60D2C2F9-9A2F-4FD6-A30E-7D3348E9DF5F.jpeg
    Sanded down today, it took care of a lot of problem area.
    15D1656A-D903-4A12-864E-FE7D7CDAACB4.jpeg
    Layer two, goal was to build up any low areas so I’ll just have to sand it down to get it close to done
    7514B0D4-65E2-44CD-9B74-30D9508A5BD9.jpeg
    Bow area
    12B32EF1-B32C-4561-A11A-D5724437D269.jpeg
    I’ll be out of town for the holiday, work should resume Saturday, hopefully get to the point of waxing
     
    Lou and SteveT44 like this.
  12. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2015
    Posts:
    1,725
    Location:
    Chantilly, VA
    Back to work after the holiday. Sanded down the previous layer of joint compound, added another in a few areas
    8D5FF2C1-79E7-4733-ACC5-6FA1981644A7.jpeg
    Getting closer
    C9443135-7EA3-4009-9F55-1BD63B693E9A.jpeg
    Sanded that layer down today
    6FB41E7C-28A1-43CB-8AE8-CD65129D2671.jpeg
    More shots
    F4D2BBC9-D088-4841-B2FA-C7451C478B61.jpeg
    Stern
    57F17B39-F8A7-4C06-9630-D4C96F698BDC.jpeg
    Painted to finish it off
    643A6855-09A8-4F27-B656-86EC1BDFB3BC.jpeg
    Stern
    9C5F81F7-611B-445A-8F19-F1E9B343B719.jpeg
    Bow
    EFD02C75-CF35-4BC4-8A0E-0D96E1BF3176.jpeg
    I sanded this paint down, next step will be spray paint and acrylic clear coat spray, then it will be set for wax. It won’t be the prettiest hull but it’s not like my boats end up looking good anyways haha. Pink foam worked great, much better than the ‘Michelin man’ spray foam plug I made last time
     
    Beaver likes this.
  13. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Posts:
    3,677
    Location:
    Central PA
    Looks good, Kevin. I'm gonna have to give this mold making thing a go sometime. You make it look too easy. ;)
     
  14. Lou

    Lou It's just toy boats -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2008
    Posts:
    2,095
    Location:
    Smyrna, Georgia
    Costs can get a little high for just one boat. If you want to do a "one-off" fiberglass hull, at the point that Kevin is above you would cover the mold in aluminum tape. Then brush on west systems epoxy and add cloth. Do a few layers, remember that more epoxy does not mean a stronger hull.
    Then pull the hull off the mold after letting sit for at least 24 hours. Remove the tape and add cloth/epoxy to the inside. Mark the rib locations and add some cloth/epoxy strips (no sense in adding more cloth to areas you are going to cut out).
    She wont be the prettiest looking hull, but it is all covered up in balsa and paint anyways. Some light sanding on the outside will get you a smoother surface and remove any blemishes.
    I actually plan to try this for a future build and this is really helpful for any ship with undercuts or complex outer hulls:
    1. When making the profile center beam, use 2 pieces of 1/8th wood instead of 1 piece 1/4 inch
    2. drill holes and bolt them together, making sure the holes do not interfere with the ribs
    3. The build board will be in 2 pieces, cut down the middle and attached with screws on the outside of the ship beam
    4. Cut the hull stations in half, and glue them to each side. Make sure everything is straight
    5. Separate the hull halves, and mount to new boards on the profile side. Now you have two sections of ship.
    6. Fill and smooth it down like Kevin shows in this build (on both sides).
    7. Do the tape/epoxy like I described above
    8. Pull off both halves and join them together with cloth/epoxy
    Now you have a "one-off" hull, if a lot of people like and want it you could then make a proper mold.
     
    Anachronus likes this.
  15. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2015
    Posts:
    1,725
    Location:
    Chantilly, VA
    Made some progress this week and today. First I made the divider piece out of 1/8” balsa, then I spray painted the whole thing and sprayed with acrylic clear coat
    052E9C96-5E4E-4377-A244-3463594720C9.jpeg
    Then I used silicone between the divider and the hull to prevent any leak through
    16121762-0996-4BA6-B136-C0EC9866D049.jpeg
    Stern
    423666BF-18D4-4727-B06C-00DB5F9929ED.jpeg
    Whole boat
    C95D2BC3-2417-4D13-8F9F-74DF21FE3174.jpeg
    Overhead, blue tape was to have a surface to glue the divider down in a couple places
    6DB77342-CBAE-4992-9EAF-13B0700C24C0.jpeg
    Now I used two coats of wax and two layers of mold release film to provide for removal of the mold once dry
    487DB44A-3CB0-463B-A039-6B8B44B4B49D.jpeg
    Another shot
    21C3457D-089A-4729-AEC6-F15FECEF4BA5.jpeg
    Cut out mat
    E8264748-FE06-447A-B5D5-780E1B454306.jpeg
    I used a can of bondo resin I had left over from a project 3 years ago to use it up. No early kicking which was good, I think the inside surface won’t have any air bubbles
    CB47518F-C46D-477D-A063-67F0DFBE6394.jpeg
    Drying
    1B818E8D-20D7-4953-9950-265BB1C6C661.jpeg
    The plan is to remove the tape and divider piece in the morning, then wax and prep the other half, and repeat the past few steps to finish the mold. I’m hoping to be able to pull the mold off by tomorrow evening
     
    Sethie likes this.
  16. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Posts:
    3,677
    Location:
    Central PA
    Looking good!
    Mmmmm, I can just smell it now. :sick:
     
  17. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2015
    Posts:
    1,725
    Location:
    Chantilly, VA
    Yes, polyester resin is probably the smell that most reminds me of my childhood, and unfortunately it ends up staying in my apartment for about a week after use.

    I made the second half today. Divider came off easy, first side looked good
    92D9E6C6-5EDB-47F4-955B-B738188E37AE.jpeg
    Bow
    D5CBCF80-887E-4D02-B2C3-6DBC350283C7.jpeg
    Shot down the length
    4F07590A-11D8-464C-823C-904669D478C3.jpeg
    Waxed and coated with film, using a fan significantly shortened the drying time
    914DB53F-C4C4-467F-A84E-F5418B51C464.jpeg
    And layed up
    B1118FBA-6A82-480B-B67F-4763C5D36738.jpeg
    I decided to wait to pull it apart until tomorrow to make sure it cured completely
     
    Beaver likes this.
  18. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2015
    Posts:
    1,725
    Location:
    Chantilly, VA
    Popped the mold off today, it came out pretty good with just a few bubbles to fill with bondo. Plug survived too. It came off a lot easier than my last go around at this
    8B173F25-BA19-437C-9934-4EA13B9403C2.jpeg
    Only significant chunk of plug that came off, but the plug will get deep 6-ed anyways
    BCB80B61-9043-4C26-B328-B44A285CC99B.jpeg
    Two halves
    6B51D160-4AAB-48B2-9166-4C8016B48A05.jpeg
    Put together, there are about 10 holes in the flange that I drilled and power-tapped before separating
    24B92A1F-293D-456D-A3CF-0FE423A0B931.jpeg
    Next step will be to remove the excess film and fill any voids with bondo, then prep to make an actual hull, maybe by Wednesday!
    3AFCC57F-B3A3-4CA5-ABC7-EB0B8E3B96BB.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2017
    Sethie and Beaver like this.
  19. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2015
    Posts:
    1,725
    Location:
    Chantilly, VA
    Hull 1 is done. Since last updat
    Filled in voids in the mold with bondo
    212CF0B1-B7D3-4EFC-962A-B1D53A3EF4E7.jpeg
    Overall
    4FBD133C-8450-4C12-8C20-F2D3AAB12A96.jpeg
    Prepped the mold
    D1AB1103-B434-49C2-85AA-4332ECA5F62C.jpeg
    Two layers of mat
    DA6FCFFA-58CE-439F-A435-72C9F2249F05.jpeg
    The frantic sequence of getting all the resin in the mold left the brush with quite the fiberglass hair ball
    C80B2028-BE0B-4CF8-B915-009F327B21C5.jpeg
    Both layers drying, took about 2 hours to lay up the hull
    D3BD20B8-0669-43F1-A818-E1D74C6349D0.jpeg
    Popped the mold off yesterday, came off pretty easy
    3717510E-1973-456F-8D02-A2ADFE81A4D0.jpeg
    Cut the excess off
    2EDE6C43-834A-4587-A24C-4896A0C40A03.jpeg
    Float test at 5.6 lbs
    A1001E34-E7CE-4CE2-83CF-3CEAFF8A2A80.jpeg
    Sits nicely at that weight, shouldn’t be too difficult to stay within that limit
    5C49E1DC-AD02-4B7B-A6CE-2FDA047D7C8A.jpeg
    Hopefully I’ll get a couple more hulls out this weekend, then start the real build
     
    SteveT44 and Beaver like this.
  20. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Posts:
    3,677
    Location:
    Central PA
    Hull looks great as always! Can't wait to get one. :)