So I would call this my aggressive/ambitious configuration. You could go with a more conservative layout, with a single magazine super low, single 1 unit stern gun, but my goal is to make class 1 great again so the boat needs some teeth. If it’s too tippy then I will shift to dual stern guns which should still be effective. Being on the receiving end of a single shot stern gun is at most an annoyance, but well placed dual guns can do some damage. This ship would primarily used in campaign, where it could unload fast, then call 2 minutes and reload and repeat. Important factors that should improve the stability of this boat are the added depth to the hull to let it handle the max weight. Not sure if the fletchers have extra depth, or how much. Here are a few pictures from fitting guns and such Rudder after drying Aft mounts came out good, didn’t shift while drying Guns, bending them in place, there is a wooden T I made to hold the elbows in place Temp fit Checking the B.B. path, something like this, impact around 5-6” fwd of bow 15 degrees I also filled in air bubbles in the hull with bondo, I will be sheeting the boat and gluing superstructure together this weekend.
I asked about running twin avengers on the Vac-u-Gearing a while back and the answer I got was that the guns may rob each other in a smaller system. is this accurate, and if so, how are you addressing this?
In my estimation all you need is regulator flow and appropriate sized fittings. No robbing. No accumulators.
This will be a concern, I've thought about it some but the only way to find out will be to test different configurations. I'm using my standard guns (at first) which take a decent amount of flow (remember teeth). The first step will be two check vales directly off the regulator with thin-walled 1/4" OD tubes going to the solenoids. There won't be a ton of length to accomplish this, so it probably wont work with my current internal setup. If necessary I have two small accumulator tanks that I can drop in and should have weight for. Building is typically an iterative process: plan, build, test, revise, repeat
cool, I look forward to seeing your results, as I fully intend to get a Vac-u-Gearing at some point (after I finish my Texas, since I'm a stickler for finishing things)
I my self have recently decided to finish all my old partial projects before I take on anything as a new build. Gotta get the DR1 Triplane done, then refit the two ships I plan to run this year, then finish out the 1/96th Prinz Eugen. THEM, I can start my new stuff. Like the Battle Stations FG hulls and gun systems. But if I don't get these done first, they will just keep sitting like they have been. Triplane has been sitting for over 2 years now. P.E. for over a year.
yeah, I don't have that many pots on the stove, just the Texas. otherwise I'd just get too distracted
In the last 3 weeks I have gotten more done than in the last year. I completely rebuilt one crashed plane back to flight ready, Covered my triplaneas well as made modifications to it for scale detailing, built a Dumas big swamp buggy to the fiberglass and paint stage, repaired and modified my HPI Savage X 1/8 nitro truck, geared up a small electric seaplane, all after cleaning the 3 rooms upstairs so I could set up my building space and went through, sorted, and stored my extensive RC hoard. So yea been a little busy, lol. I still have at least 4 unstarted airplane kits, another 2 mid build, and 4 others in need of various repairs or replacement equipment to fly again, there is a Disease called RC, I suffer from it's advanced stages. HAHAHA!
Then there are the warship projects, lol. Most of that stuff above will be on the back burner for years as it already has. But one day..............
And now back to your regularly scheduled program... Continued working on this project. Gooped the superstructure together Filled in air bubble in the fiberglass with bondo and coated with epoxy Next was sheeting the boat. Step 1, cut balsa to size (length), cut silkspan for inside Step 2, coat the balsa/silkspan with a coating. I use a 50/50 mix of MEK and contact cement. You can also use lacquer or nitrate dope Here it is drying Next step, apply contact cement to balsa and side of hull. I make little marks on the balsa with a sharpie to show where the ribs are Coat the hull with contact cement as well. I do two coats on the hull, 1-2 on the blasa Step 4, wait for contact cement to dry, then attach balsa to side of hull. I typically start at the most critical edge, usually on a rib, and work from there. With contact cement you only get one shot, once it's on it is on Next I apply another layer of silkspan to the outside of the hull, I put extra strips over any joints and on the bottom edge. Then paint rough float test. Stability was not great, I pulled the magazines from the guns and it got better. The bow guns might not work the way i built it, so i might have to shift to dual sterns. I had about a half pound to spare so i decided to fill the Waterchannel area with bb's and epoxy to improve stability Here are the bb's and epoxy Next was a battery mount, 1/16" plywood to be light close up on the mount itself. I will epoxy outside of boat and then goop it to the waterchannel once i determine best location via final float test Solenoid mount as well, real simple to be light weight. I will use the edges of the waterchannel as part of the mount solenoid configuration, keeping the weight low, with room for hooking up hoses Test fit of solenoid mount in hull. i will wrap wire ties under the mount and around the solenoids to hold them in place Battery holder, might move forward or aft slightly battery holder drying solenoid mount drying in the hull It's getting close, these should be the last epoxy jobs in the hull, so i will shift to adding the small amounts of wiring and putting stuff in for real next. Sea trials next weekend?
Looking fantastic. so... since I suck at doing the tissue thing, were you only doping the tissue down where the balsa will be mounted? whenever you get on the water, I'd really like to see how that thing maneuvers with that weight distro if you don't mind bringing a camera
Thanks guys. For applying the silkspan, I pretty much 'paint' it on, starting at one end, holding it tight and moving towards the other end, coating the entire piece of balsa, not just the contact points. One of the pictures in the post was taken right after completing that step. I'm not very good at putting the silkspan on the outside of the hull once the balsa is attached, if i took closer pictures you would see all the bumps/creases, but it is pretty much the same process. Hope that makes sense If the boat works/stays upright enough I will take a video. It will be a very cautious sea trials since I don't know how the bottom of the pond is that I use, and I'm not trying to find out. I will probably add a silicone deck seal to help out as well. The boat was very unstable in the tub but the solenoids, batteries, and bb's were loose so I'm hoping that they will improve the stability when they are secured
I don't think presentation is the hobby's strong suit. my exterior spanning makes Texas look like a one-eyed junkyard dog named Lucky. Hope you're right and all of the machinery going stationary helps
Kevin, this is just so... Watch that top weight, once you add a "little" water they tend to go turtle in a turn.
Thanks Lou! It’s my first class 1 boat so my methods aren’t refined yet haha. Mid weekend update So I swapped out to aluminum barrels and started putting stuff inside Motors in, alignment is over rated Solenoids wire tied down and connected to CO2 lines To handle to dual gun power requirements I ended up routing a section of thin walled tube/hose to the stern with a check valve, and then normal hose back to the regulator. This should provide enough gas. Here is the check valve transition, I might add a swivel fitting in there Rudder servo in Guns have hoses connected, hopefully will test them out today or tomorrow I also made up the wiring leads, they will be put in along with the last few components, then I will float test again, do a system op check, and test guns. Probably not going to make it to the pond due to the weather, but I should have more pictures later in the weekend with everything inside. Also current weight is 5lbs 6oz which leaves 3oz left for the little pieces
Thanks for the tech Steve, I should test them out for real tomorrow More component install this evening. I installed the mini gulg outlet Rubber band keeping the pump in place Servo sprocket and chain from servo city I plugged everything in for the initial operational test. One of the shafts was squealing a bit, my boats always sound like a blender. One of the solenoids was giving me some issues, so I’ll have to pull it and troubleshoot outside of the boat tomorrow. There is something to be said for testing things before you install, I’ve found it to be more important on the tiny build where troubleshooting in the boat isn’t an option Stuffed the spaghetti in its box, not super clean but it works. I will make a switch frame thing to prevent accidental actuation Tested the weight, right at max Next was float test round 2. Round 1 was ugly but this one was much better. I will need to add some trim weights, I will probably put two 6-32 screws up through the bottom to stack washers as needed. I used some small metal pieces to trim it out Still has a good amount of freeboard, just under an inch aft, 1 5/8 fwd I put some tubes in the barrels to show impact point Just about 6 inches off the bow. View from the bridge. Coming soon to an axis bow near you
