I've heard poor Malaya is in bad shape -- but I'm thinking I'll try to get her fixed up and running again (with some help). As I haven't yet see her, could somebody run me through her loadout and what damage she's taken? Also, I've read some of her history, but not all -- what were her notable engagements? EDIT: I may try to superdetail parts of the superstructure -- has anyone tried this before? Is it worth it?
Is this a local ship for sale? If so, make sure to stay in touch with the seller if you have questions. Also, you might want to build you own ship. I know it is easier to get going and you think you can learn from what the builder did, but if you build your own, you will learn by your own hand, and it will be much more rewarding(personally).The problem with super-detailing is that the details will be shot off. so you can, but it would be cheaper, easier and less frustrating to keep it simple, in my opinion
I was thinking of starting off with the Malaya as sort of a "bruiser" and eventually shifting to a Leander once I'm experienced enough. Mind you, that's fairly far off -- I doubt anyone makes a Leander hull, so it would have to be scratch-built. I'll try to find a compromise between super-detail and function that leaves my ship(s) pretty and tough at the same time. What do other people do for that? EDIT: RC ArtWerks has a Leander, so I guess that makes it easier. Not too expensive, either.
Thats a good idea. Once i get my first ship out of the way, hopefully in the beginning of next year, i would like to do an HMS Fiji class cruiser. And from what i have heard, scratch building isn't as daunting a task or nearly as hard as it seems, especially with the help and guidance of many of the guys on this site.
Regarding detailing. You can still detail but remember to use "Expendable" Materials or items. Don't use expensive photo etched parts. If you do then have those parts easily remomvable from teh model for battle and place them back on for those days of just pleasure cruising and shows. These days you can get detail items such as secondarys and main guns, radars ect that are bb proof or highly resistant. Even stillhow you attach them is another matter. I use a combo of Goop and CA to hold the little parts like cleats, bollards, crew ect. OThers are held in by industrial strength velcro.There are many materials to use that are bb resistant or bb proof you can use. You be quite surprised what actually remains on deck after a fierce battle. A lot of wood bits that look like ship deck items can be attached. When they get shot off they go flying and it is really cool to watch. Rigging can be highly resisitant. I use Piano wire and it remains on board and keeps my masts from being obliterated. Most repairs are very quick and simple right on sight.
Sounds awesome, I look forward to making the deck and superstructure soon -- and I'd love to see pictures of your ship.
Chris, am I in the right forums? Which forums do the Canadian Warship Modellers use? (ie, I don't want to be bothering the wrong club). Also, I hope to see it soon as well -- I've been digging into the history of the ship, and I've also read through her stats on MWCI. Maximum weight 30lbs? Sounds quite heavy. Also, that weight sounds like it'd do well for ramming. But of course, ramming is illegal. And with good reason, I suspect. I wouldn't want to be hit by a battleship.
Hey Bob this is the right one. Not really she does weigh in at 29-30 lbs but bismark is 40lbs when sh is fully loaded. When you come over I will get you to pick up Tirpitz which is still loaded with all her gear. They are heavier than they look and that is before you sink. Just to give you an idea Yamato os over 60 lbs when loaded she is one big ugly boat.
She is that. She also turns on a dime somethind alot of ships cannot due, she also has good firepower for such a short ship and lastly she is hard to sink due to the amount of impenatrable area. She is allied though.