The hull is essentially complete now. I'll clean up a few punch list items and then turn it over to Matt tomorrow. Rudder installation. Motors and dog bones. ESC installation. I took advantage of the 01 level to build a tray for the ESCs, keeping them out the water in everything except a sink.
With everything hooked up, I took it out to the test basin. The motors draw 14.5 amps, 85 watts each at full throttle. A little more than I was expecting, but within the capability of all the components. Plus I don't think full throttle will be needed to make speed. Motors: NTM Propdrive 42-38 750Kv brushless ESCs: Trackstar 18 brushless Battery: 6 volt SLA. 12 AHr for tests, 2x 36 AHr in battle configuration Props: 2" 25 pitch 3-blade When you can't fit the whole ship in, just put in half of it. The float test was successful, absolutely no water coming in around the shafts and other penetrations in the stern. I had a little water coming in from somewhere, maybe through the stuffing tubes or maybe from the tape I used to cover the sides temporarily. I'm going to add an epoxy fillet to reinforce the joint between the center rib and bottom sheeting just in case. Even at 1/2 throttle, and only one prop turning, a rooster tail is starting to form.
And to seriously mix up the threads... The MIGHTY Hood meets USS Arkansas. USS Arkansas swallowed whole. The MIGHTY Hood meets the King of Barts. No shots were fired, but the British sternly admonished the French to scuttle while they had a chance.
The French will not be intimidated by your strong-arm tactics! Those are cool ships! Can't wait to sea them finished!
The MIGHTY Hood looks even more impressive in person, let me tell you. One benefit of the break-down construction is that it is much easier to work on. Mark and Matt did some work on the stern guns, and the bow was on the other side of the shop.
I had some more photos of what I used for the filler underneath the self leveler, but the files became corrupted. I used 3/8" deep foam tiles cut to fit between the ribs, and the water channeling, I sealed them with epoxy, then I poured 3/16" thick layer of self leveler for the first layer of the water channeling. Which took 67 fluid ounces. Normally I make progressive layers lateral to the main channel, but time is short before the September battle, so that will be saved for a refit. the last photo shows a good majority of the main super structure, the boat deck level is not shown, but it has been cut out, now back to working on superstructure/internals/armor/etc.
I believe that is the black foam floor tiles used for weight rooms, to sit fitness machines on, and in workplace ergonomics for when workers have to stand in a certain area for extended periods. It is a very rugged and dense closed-cell foam that is Matt's go-to material for rapid and durable superstructure construction.
I think he just glues the layers of foam together, glues that to the plywood with the outline, and takes it over to the bandsaw--viola, er violin, um wahla!
