Misc. Stuff

Discussion in 'North Atlantic Battle Squadron' started by Bob Pottle, Nov 7, 2013.

  1. Bob Pottle

    Bob Pottle Well-Known Member

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    I've gone through my storage cupboards and found enough unused 550 motors to equip Vanguard and Rodney (drive and pump motors), plus a pair of Master Airscrew 2.5/1.0 belt drive reduction gears I got from Steve Hill. There are about a dozen 380 motors and spare Camurati, SW and BC pumps. Also parts for 6 more BB cannons. I found my tube bender but am out of cerrubend metal and the store that sold it is out of business. Not too much of a problem as the mags for Hood, Vanguard and Rodney's dual BB cannons will be mostly straight.
    My workbench is still occupied by the Profintern/Krasni Krym hull plug I commissioned several years ago. It had several errors that made the mold inaccurate so I didn't put the hulls on the market, except for selling one to a fellow in Florida who didn't mind the too-deep side sponsons and too narrow bow. The old side sponsons have been cut off and replaced with accurate ones and work on correcting the bow is almost done. Then there will be several hours of painting on and sanding Zinser sealer/primer before it goes to a new owner in Dec.
    That'll leave the workbench free to rearm HMS Hood with dual sidemounts in A and Y turrets and 2 pumps. I measured the area left aft of Hood's rudder to the stern; there isn't enough space to install the 50% larger rudder allowed by rule changes unless it hangs below the keel, which is not wise. I think a 30-40% larger rudder will fit but the rudder shaft and shaft tube should be moved aft to give better balance with the longer rudder - might be tricky with the permanently installed fiberglass deck and small access hatch to the rudder linkage.
    I don't plan to finish Rodney or Vanguard for 2014 but will install the moulded fiberglass decks, prop shaft, armour and rudders during pending NABS build sessions. Both of them will need larger rudders than originally planned but again there isn't enough space for the maximum allowed size. At least Vanguard's transom stern makes it easier to install the rudder shaft further aft.
    I've decided to build a hull plug for the Frobisher Class heavy cruisers, which I've long wanted to try in competition. They have a low quarterdeck with two single guns in line so can't fire dual shots unless trained a few degrees to port or starboard. However, I think they'll be quite effective with the quarterdeck guns trained 15 degrees to each side and at maximum depression. The class is just long enough to benefit from the rule for 50% larger rudders and should out-perform the 2" longer Counties which have their stern guns more than 1" higher above the waterline. They're bulged and max. weight is a couple of pounds lighter than the Counties.
     
  2. CURT

    CURT Well-Known Member

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    Bob would it be possible to make a 2nd deck for the Rodney from the mold? I don't have a deck for Rodney and it would be great to have a fiberglass deck for it. I be interested in purchasing a deck from you for it when you your making yours.
     
  3. Bob Pottle

    Bob Pottle Well-Known Member

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    Hi Curt,
    Like the deck moulds for all of my RC combat ships Rodney's was made of balsa strips glued to an MDF shelf, then waxed. The moulds were never intended to produce more than one deck and were usually badly damaged in the moulding process. Sorry, I can't produce another one for you. Rodney's deck was made years ago and the damaged mould discarded.
    Bob
     
  4. CURT

    CURT Well-Known Member

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    RIght , right I remember now. No problem Bob. I could probalby make one now that I have the space to do so. By the time I get around to that Strike may have one avaible by then. Anyway the deck for Rodney shouldn't be difficult to make.
     
  5. Bob Pottle

    Bob Pottle Well-Known Member

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    Deck moulds are easy to make. Get a large enough MDF shelf for the deck, preferably painted with melamine. Draw a centerline, tape or tack your deck plan to the shelf and trace the outline. Then glue 1/8" square balsa strips along the deck outline with CA glue.
    Determine where and how large your hatch openings will be and the thickness of the hatches (I use 1/8" lexan or plexiglass).
    Cut sheets of balsa of appropriate thickness (1/8" for my models) and size to match the hatch openings. Glue them in position, then add a smaller sheet on top of each one of them to give a narrow step all the way around. The step can vary from 1/8" - 1/4" wide and will form the flange that supports the hatch.
    Wax and buff multiple times with mould release wax, apply gelcoat if desired, let cure 24 hrs and lay up the fiberglass. Let cure and you'll have your deck with moulded hatch openings.
     
  6. CURT

    CURT Well-Known Member

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    Excellent thanks for the info Bob.