Mogador Build - Fastgun

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by SteveT44, Jan 4, 2011.

  1. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    .
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2018
  2. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    Scale model weight for Moggy is like 3.52, max model weight is 4.87. I wonder how deep she'd sit at scale weight? No rule about minimum weight, just interesting. I am certain you can make your desired weight, it's not that hard if you have a lightweight regulator. :)

    I have found it much easier to make the lightweight DDs using 1/16" bass or ply for the decks and ribs, doubling or tripling the ribs to make them thicker on the edges where the balsa attaches.
     
  3. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    The fixed pressure regulator from Strike Models is also very light, I made weight in my Orfey-class DD with it, and it's a lighter ship than most would try ;) I really need to get its electrics rewired and play with it :) But you already ordered the one from the UK, so if you can get that one worked out, that'll be another source of lightweight regulators.
     
  4. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    I did that method of subdeck creation in my old HMS Lion back in '04, except I laminated 1/16" x 1/4" pieces. It's still holding up very well and battling, so it must be an okay method :) Looking forward to seeing the rest of your build!
     
  5. mike5334

    mike5334 Well-Known Member

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    That hull looks nice and thick, unlike the Mogador hull I have.

    Been thinking of removing the deck and subdeck and starting again. I put them in not long after entering the hobby and since then have learned better construction techniques. It'll be interesting to see how Steve's Mogador deck/subdeck turns out, especially with his mad-crazy-good wood working skills.
     
  6. mike5334

    mike5334 Well-Known Member

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    Won't hurt to reinforce the ribs ... pretty much have to put something back there anyway to keep the internal armor off the ribs.
     
  7. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    How far off should the internal armor be held off the outer skin?

    Steve
     
  8. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    1/2" is good
     
  9. mike5334

    mike5334 Well-Known Member

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    I think 1/4" is more than enough. The BB has to be able to go completely through the hull skin.
    When I build a wood ship, I tend to go with 3/8" wide ribs which sets the internal armor back 3/8". On fiberglass hulls, I use 1/4" square stock to back the ribs.
     
  10. thegeek

    thegeek Well-Known Member

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    I use 1/8" Aluminum and bend it to form and then goop it to the FG. Tough and light and easy
    to form to the bends of the hull. 1/8" is enough if you hang the Showpan liner or other material.

    On a Mogador I would use 1/16" to back the ribs, strong enough.
     
  11. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    You're measuring thrust? :)

    I am concerned that 1/16" between the showerpan liner and the balsa won't be enough to let BBs pass thru unimpeded. Any chance you could add some 1/4" standoffs or something?
     
  12. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    You mean everybody doesn't measure thrust? ;-)

    After consultation with several senior members of MAG I've decided not to reinforce the ribs on the Tyng Mogador. The general consensus was that the BC Mogador hull was thick for the type and that extra backing was not required. The internal armor will be hanging off the 3/8" wide subdeck so will be well off the outside balsa.
     
  13. Jay Jennings

    Jay Jennings Well-Known Member

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    Steve,
    What are you using for armor? Up here some of us are using the plastic canvas from the dollar store. It is light, cheap and best of flexable enough to bend around anything but rigid enough to give excellent protection. It is ideal for those tight fitting spots in smaller hulls.
    Just a suggestion,
    J
     
  14. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    If weights not to much of an issue I have some shower pan liner. If an issue, I've acquired some plastic very heavy duty looking light weight shelf liner material that looks like it may be able to take a bb round. I'll be testing it at some point.

    Steve
     
  15. SnipeHunter

    SnipeHunter Well-Known Member

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    Yeah a lot of people don't for some reason, I dont understand why. It's simple to do and it it gives you some good information for system design/optimization. Now if only the stupid chipmunks and field mice would stop jumping into my test tank.....we've got us a floater....
     
  16. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    I must admit it wasn't my idea to do any motor testing beyond the finger pinch test but someone who shall remain unnamed decided to get up from his electronics prototyping and actually build something for a change, so the test stand was born. Tests confirmed that these small high efficiency brushed motors that I found were indeed stump pullers and they will be used in the Tyng Mogador. These little gems are rated for 12v, 5K RPM with a 1.6A stall current and they spin the 30mm props like no tomorrow. Measured thrust was in excess of .5 pounds.

    Steve
     
  17. SnipeHunter

    SnipeHunter Well-Known Member

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    Sounds about right for a cruiser, I'd suggest measuring again once you get it installed to see if/how much that changes the performance.
     
  18. Anachronus

    Anachronus Well-Known Member

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  19. mike5334

    mike5334 Well-Known Member

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    I like the mirrored wall so the builder can admire the other side of the ship he is working on. ;)
     
  20. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    The mirrored wall cuts construction time by half.