I was building the Nagato from papercraft pland but have not fully liked the plans I used to build the 1/144 so far but am still planing on finishing it tho. But here is the Q: I was building a 3D model would anybody like me to finish out and post a reworked plan set? I still have a little work left in the lower mid section. The ship ribs I started with has a big hole where the bottom starts to transition inward and upward near the rear section it gos from round shape to V shape with nothing in-between as to the shape of the transition.
That is looking really nice. I'm impressed at what you've been able to do in Delftship. I've tried it a few times and did not get very far.
I had watched a few videos off of YouTube when I started using delfit. I had figured something very interesting about the program, when there is only a set of navy plan drawings that show decks only and no hull line drawings a model can be made using the decks and side view as a frame to build a hull. only thing is after one of the last few updates scaling the background seems to be broke or I just haven't figured out how to use it.
Now I see what you mean about the paper model. It be a shame to not finish your version of it. Hopefully they'll fix that feature soon.
I had took a better Picture of the near final rib lay out showing both starting and final rib layout. I have been debating designing a USS Texas next for my next Delftship project as the two ships wear contemporary when they wear launched. Aside from the ship plans I can find but I can't seem to find a hull line plan of the Texas, nether have I seen any technical style books over the Texas/New York class ships. Would you or anyone know where I should look?
Just an FYI - if I were going to model that ship for combat, I would remove that aircraft crane bulge on the port stern as it just makes the ship so much harder to sheet. (Nobody will complain if it isn't there, there are already several Nagatos out there that have that feature removed.) Also, on the torpedo bulges, I would remove that waterline crease and fair the bulge in smoothly, because sheeting a crease like that is just a major pain in the behind. I don't recommend it. For example, the Nagato I had many years ago looked like this: (Hoping I can find the picture)
I had bought a 1/200 scale papercraft model of the ship, that is where I got the plans to build the 1/144 scale ship that I scanned in to the computer removed the color and blew up to build the ship that is in the build thread that I have been working on.
I thought the ship hulls had to be correct in there shape and dimensions? of course there are when a ship is built, years later refitting is done and in most cases bulges are added. battleship Texas for example bulges wear added and now the bulges are changing shape from what they wear to 2023 as the lower section is changing shape where the bottom meets the hull. I tend to take things literally when I read such as the rules of construction for example
So, looking at: https://ircwcc.org/rules.php ... C.3: Hull shape shall be relatively to scale. Running gear (such as skegs and bilge keels) shall be relatively scale and in the correct scale location. It's been long accepted practice to do things like smooth out creases/bulges, or plate over/omit things like casemates if they are dreadfully inconvenient. Heck, a certain Seydlitz hull has a mistake in that the casemates are symmetrical on both sides, where they should each have a casemate missing where the wing turret is (because there's no room for it). As long as it looks reasonable on the water, and you're not trying to take blatant advantage, people aren't going to sweat the small stuff.
Out of curiosity were you planning to model the superstructure for her? I'm asking because i recently got my nagato hull from bc and there was issues with the superstructure so they were not able to send it out to me.
I had planed on using the papercraft ship plans to build the SS, plan B was to try 3D printed parts. let me know if you want me to email you the papercraft plans I had blown them up to 1/144 printer paper tiled together. I had planned to experiment some. send me your Email if you want to have a look at the plans. I apologize for taking so long to reply to your question.
