the Germans were interestingly not prone to consistency across ships of a single class when it came to above deck arrangements
Shoot Max, I think if looks great! You do good work because you take the time to do Between your pics of your build, Thegeek's walk thru and Will Covers Fel Beast I will have great resources for my Nassau build when the time comes. Thanks for sharing fhe journey. Craig
Don't over work the detail, it gets blasted away real fast. Great job so far. I was thinking of doing a Hybrid nassau with ABS ribs (Printed) and wood frame with ABS casement sections. Make it so it can be a Kit for the rookie? Mine is getting trashed one battle at a time so it may need replacement.
oh no, do the details, all of thems. We promises not to blasts them all to bitses we leave 1, maybe 2 in pieces instead of bitses
bait taken I will need 8 of these 4 of these and two crains in addition to the turrets that we already talked about.
I have no intention of over doing it. "Stand off Scale" I wish I had pictures of the Westfalen I built for Phil years ago. This is the best I have.
Me? Not exactly. @Maxspin is just cherrypicking from other things. Probably if I ever pick up a Nassau hull I'll do the complete super work
Rib Calculator dispute When I looked at allowed ribs. I used a Rib Calculator that I pulled off (i thought the IRCWCC website years ago) the WEB. Now I see a discrepancy. If I use the old version I am allowed 11.952 ribs. (sand just a little for 12 ribs). The new calculator only allows 11 ribs 7/64" left over. That would cause me to round down. I built it with 12.
No dispute. Both are correct the new calculator is suggesting you use a 1/8" rib AND 11 1/4 ribs, leaving you with a fractional leftover slighter smaller than 1/8" Just take 1/64 off the bow hard area to compensate.
Fixing more mistakes. I can not emphasize how important it is to plan out EVERYTHING before your get started. In some areas I did good. In others not so much…. I am making a point to show my mistakes, because most if not all can be overcome. #1 This one I should have caught. My only excuse is that this is my first scratch build. What’s with the ribs? What is point of that front one? Remove that and there are only 10??? Adding ribs after it is glued up is not easy. I had to cut them and glue them in pieces. Not the best for strength, but they are added ribs, so I will add some fiberglass reinforcement later on. I put the extra (2) ribs in the bow. You can also see where I miss-cut the bow section and had to splice in a fix. A layer of fiberglass both on the inside and outside should make it plenty strong. #2 That rib in the stern. It is right where the rudder needs to go. I found that one when I was getting ready to drill holes for the rudder posts. I like to keep the rudder as close to props as possible. I added a ¼” spacer to move the prop back to where it needs to be. For now it is just tacked in position. Further work will have to wait until my new props arrive from overseas. For this build I will be using a PropShop Standard Scale .7” prop. I went with the Kort Prop on my last build and was underwhelmed with performance. I will wait until I have prop in hand to do any more work on the drive train.
Rejected Parts! Inspector Nishka determined that the main superstructure did not pass inspection. Latest developments have put Maxspin shipyards behind schedule by days!!! Never trust an inspector!!!
Well that was quick. I was expecting to have another couple of weeks of prep. Everything lines up good. I need to fair in the extension and glass the hull. I can't hold the rudders and take pictures, but the wider closer position is what I will go with.
Glassed it. The Matt that I had on hand was heavy. It made it difficult to make it lay down nice. Worked in the end.
Drive shaft For the drive shaft, I built the aft stringer with a single drive shaft in mind. I sandwiched ¼” plywood between two pieces of 1/8” plywood with a slot for the drive shaft to go through. This was built so that the stuffing tube would line up with the gear box sitting on the bottom of the water channel. The Water channel / gear box location is dictated by aft gun location and rib spacing. (note the circle designating stay-out area for aft cannon. Note that the gear box is 1/2" back to allow water to pass.
