New Captain on the Docks!( Hopefully not on rocks)

Discussion in 'Introductions' started by silverwing, Feb 11, 2012.

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  1. buttsakauf

    buttsakauf Well-Known Member

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    It is very simple to do. Keep the two rudder arms parallel to eachother and then link them together with a rod. Then at the arm further forward attach another rod and run it to your servo. Be sure to keep things square.
    Das Butts
     
  2. silverwing

    silverwing Member

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    Update on today: got my linkages set, starting a recovery system with a fishing lure and my smoke stack: drilled a hole in my smoke stack and widened it with my dremel tool. After that, I made a spool with a plastic tube and an aluminum one mounted on two balsa posts.they're drying as we speak with Elmer's GlueAll glue. I prefer this over Gorilla Glue because it doesn't smell, and doesn't need to be wetted. I'm going to paint the parts tomorrow, as well as CA soak the wood with a layer of epoxy. Pictures will be up tomorrow at my photobucket, http://s1175.photobucket.com/albums/r631/SHAMOOKILLU/
     
  3. Gascan

    Gascan Active Member

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    I've seen too many floats fail when hidden inside the smoke stack. It's too easy to get stuck if the ship doesn't sink level. You may consider using a chunk of superstructure as a float, such as the forward bridge. Not only will it have more buoyancy, it is also less likely to get stuck if the boat sinks at an odd angle and provides more space to stow the float line. I like the spool idea, though. I've never seen one myself, but I've seen pictures of a few. That should help managing the float line, which used to get tangled on a few of my older ships.
     
  4. silverwing

    silverwing Member

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    Another update: the rudder dimension are: Rudder one ( bigger, aft one)1 15/16" x 1 3/8" and rudder two 1"x3/4"
     
  5. buttsakauf

    buttsakauf Well-Known Member

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    That is approx 4.06" sq. You are allowed 3.75" sq. In my opinion if you trimmed the smaller rudder down by .25" sq you will be fine in term of complying with the rules.
    Das Butts
     
  6. rarena

    rarena Well-Known Member

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    I like my stupidstructure floats... you need enough buoyancy to make the string unravel and a bobber doesn't usually get it done.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. silverwing

    silverwing Member

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    Yes I just trashed the bobber idea, my new idea is going to be superstructure floats, I'm gonna hollow it out and use something to make it float. What did you use? I'm thinking expanding foam insulation that floats but that may get wet and fail.The bobber was an epic fail to anyone wishing to try it. I have 200 lb test flourescent orange cord on a spool that's about 20 feet long right now, just repainted my smoke stacks, going to start the hollowing.
     
  8. silverwing

    silverwing Member

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    New pictures up on my album, and my ship is now on the forums listed as a ship, with convenient links to this page and my photobucket.
     
  9. rarena

    rarena Well-Known Member

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    I make the superstructure up on a thin wood base that fits the ship. Everything else is blocks of insulation foam (blue or pink from Lowes/home cheepo) with thicker rubber glued to the outside. You need a glue that does not dissolve foam. An alternative I have been trying is "foamie" from the craft store. It glues together with super glue but you may still need the thicker rubber on the outside cause it will take a beating. I use stuff close to the "grey wolf" termite armor available at Battler's connection for the outside thicker rubber.\
    here is a shot of Foamie
    [​IMG]

    here is a shot of foam with rubber over it.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  10. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    Something to consider, youll need a way to hold that tiny piece of superstructure on until youve actually sunk.

    Also looking at your pictures, its a bit hard to tell the size of your drag discs vs drive prop size, but check and make sure the disks are not larger. (diameter is the dimension of interest here).
     
  11. Kotori87

    Kotori87 Well-Known Member

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    Before you carve up your nice superstructure, check and see if the bridge area floats without modification. If it does, you're fine. Nick raises a good point about keeping the float on until you sink. I've seen several floats get knocked out in the middle of battle. It can be very dangerous to drag your float line around, since it can tangle your props or another ship's props, possibly burning up motors and electrical systems.
     
  12. rarena

    rarena Well-Known Member

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    The front piece is your best float shot but you might want to detach it from that deck. Maybe a few loose pins (1") on the deck for it to rest on
    I'm also leary of the angle of those dogbones. I would make sure I have spares.
    The boat looks fairly complete. I would tinker with it and get it back running or out on the water. It's a good chance to get the motors running, rudders, figure out how to make power run without fear of burning out expensive electronics, guns firing, ect

    Quite a score.
     
  13. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    Did you scrap this plan?
    [​IMG]

    On the bobber proposition, our local group has had very good luck with a fishing bobber on thin lightweight braided line in the stack. The stuff is thin enough you can easily get 6-8ft of it in the stack with the bobber. we do use thin-wall stacks for this usually though (in my Derf the stacks are fiberglass).
     
  14. silverwing

    silverwing Member

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    I scrapped that plan. This weekend I hollowed out the smoke stack and put expanding foam on the inside. Should float, testing it tomorrow.
     
  15. silverwing

    silverwing Member

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    Finally got some work done! Installed my water pump, haven't secured it yet though, any tips?
     
  16. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    Hows your Moltke doing?
     
  17. silverwing

    silverwing Member

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    Production has been halted since I'm waiting for some parts. How's yours?
     
  18. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    Production took a few weeks pause after I finished re-fiberglassing the hull, its starting back up though, building and installing the drive train this weekend, rudder assembly too if the gears get here before then. I might have it ready to battle by June, which I think was my launch month for the Maru and Derf too..
     
  19. silverwing

    silverwing Member

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    The new build thread is here: http://rcnavalcombat.com/Forum/tabid/58/aff/566/aft/442685/afv/topic/Default.aspx
     
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