Newbie Carrier Construction (Bogue)

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by Gruuler, Jun 19, 2013.

  1. Gruuler

    Gruuler Member

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    Hey Guys!
    So I ordered one of those spiffy Bogue Carrier kits from Mark last week(www.rcnavalcombat.com/Forum/tabid/5...fault.aspx), and it arrived yesterday! I was so excited, I started tearing into it this afternoon as soon as I was done with work, homework, dinner, etc. Such is life, eh? Anways, I hope you guys don't mind, but I'd like to use this thread to journal the process as well as solicit feedback on the best methods to use to get this puppy in the water. My goal with this ship is mostly to get an idea of how much work and effort it takes to get a ship floating. The focus will be on the hull, rudder and prop, engine, pump, and radio system. Talking to James it sounds like they are working towards big gun format in this area so the ship will probably just end up being a fun play toy since it seems more designed for fast gun. Afterwards we will start something a bit bigger with some firepower!
    Taking pieces of the ship out of the frames has been pretty exciting, but I'm just a little unsure of how this thing is supposed to be put together. The initial confusion was caused due to me not understanding which parts were what, but thankfully the instructions have been a great help, and the connectors very well designed leading to the following picture. I haven't glued anything yet but for starters I've taken the keel and cut the nubs off as well as taken out part of the flight deck(?) to see how things go together.
    [​IMG]

    So here's my first question: The instructions from here state to glue the keel pieces together. I was wondering if it causes any issues to put the glue inside the joints? The way the instructions read, you put them together and then glue it suggesting the glue holds the joints together from the outside. Also, I've got two different types of superglue right now, one is some Gorilla Glue and the other is a thick modeling glue used for plastic figurines but I am sure it'll hold onto wood just fine. Most people seem to advise on using a thin super glue, which I can get a hold of, but I wondered if it make a difference. Thoughts?
    I've knocked a few of the ribs out and over the next few days will be filing away to get the fits just right. I'll post some pics if I make it far enough tomorrow to show off the progress.
    Thanks guys, and happy hunting!
     
  2. jstod

    jstod Well-Known Member

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    RE: Bogue Carrier Construction (Newbie) No reason you cant build it to Big Gun rules. :)
     
  3. mike5334

    mike5334 Well-Known Member

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    RE: Bogue Carrier Construction (Newbie) If I remember right, the assemble and glue type of building works best with thin CA that will wick down into the joints and corners for a strong joint. Thicker CA won't work as well.

    Also remember that the framework will require waterproofing which could also add stength to the glue joints.
     
  4. Lou

    Lou Plastic magic -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    I epoxied all the frames, and fiber glassed the bottom of the hull. Additionally I use balsa blocks for the water channeling that really tied the frames and keel together. I recommend the gap filling super glue and kicker as it makes it easier to control.
     
  5. Gruuler

    Gruuler Member

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    RichelieuBB, thanks for the info! I picked up a bottle of thin CA glue today and got to work!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Rib construction turned out to be easier than I thought. At first I used a dremil to file away at some of the joints, but as I inserted the third rib I noticed this caused the rib to sit higher than the others since the friction of the tight space wasn't holding it down. Oops! Snapped the rest into place using a spare chunk of ply board WITHOUT filing down the edges and it fits much better now!
    [​IMG]

    Of course no good shipyard runs without an inspector!

    [​IMG]

    Based on feedback from our Turkish inspector, a quick look at the ribs revealed that the deck was warped due to the top rail pieces having not been fitted properly.

    [​IMG]

    Currently I have hammered out the problems with the deck and have one side glued and drying. I'll go rotate the piece and glue the other half tonight, but unfortunately that will be all the work I can do this week. Since I have this break to get some stuff ordered, I was wondering if anyone could make a recommendation on a pump to order and install. I will not be able to make my own and could use some advice.

    VVaholic, I'm very much a rookie when it comes to these ships, what do you mean you use balsa blocks for water channeling?
    Jstod, i've reviewed the rule set that is used out here and think your right, with some modification we could get this up and running for big gun. Going to try and set up a build session with the guys out here to get their advice and some help.
    Thanks guys!
     
  6. jstod

    jstod Well-Known Member

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    I may be wrong but I think most big gun clubs allow carriers some form of armament. Where abouts are you located?
     
  7. Lou

    Lou Plastic magic -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    You should have some stringers that define the water channeling for the center of the boat. Install them, then put in balsa blocks from that stringer to the outside hull, keeping the top of the block level with the top of the ribs. Let the bottom of the balsa block stick outside the bottom of the boat. You will then have a smooth interior surface, and sand the bottom of the blocks level with the outside of the hull. Make sense?
     
  8. Gruuler

    Gruuler Member

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    Live out in Utah. I'm going to try and set up a meeting with Greg and James for sometime soon to get help adhering to big gun policy, and will talk to them about arming her. I'm fine however if it doesn't get armed, every group needs a dedicated sinker!

    On that note, I got looking at my stern and realized we are uneven. A quick check with a level bar showed a list to starboard, and I've already applied the superglue! I'm thinking next week I'll need to try and saw a chunk out of the supporting rib on the port side to try and level things off since it appears as though the problem is that I didn't get the stern deck set deep enough into the rib. Arrgh! :D
     
  9. rcengr

    rcengr Vendor

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    It looks like you may have cut slots in the center keel, instead of the subdeck (step #2). If you go back and put cuts in the subdeck, it should be easier to get the ribs fully seated and the hull straight. Don't tear it apart if you have already glued the ribs, making the cuts in the top of the subdeck should work fine. The reason for the cuts is the deck has a curve - the 1/4" subdeck is too stiff to assume the curve without the cuts.
    The kit should work with most of the big gun rules. The one thing you need to check is the rules on the rudder. Rules I have seen call for scale size or 150% scale rudders, which would be smaller than the rudder supplied with the kit. Use the Navy plans to get the right size rudder.
    I used a Battlers Connection cruiser pump in my Bogue.
     
  10. Gruuler

    Gruuler Member

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    Hrm, well that would explain why it seemed so odd to cut slices out the keel. Got it. :)

    Thanks for the info on those parts, appreciate it!
     
  11. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    Looking good, Gruuler! I'm looking forward to seeing this build come together.
    Good luck,
    Beaver
     
  12. Gruuler

    Gruuler Member

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    Got my parts on order, don't know when they will be here, but not much more I guess to do until they come besides some sanding.
    I've been reading up on some other posts and came across a question: The guide says to use 3/32 plywood for the bottom. Is there a difference between using plywood and balsa wood of the same thickness? I'm thinking not since the bottom will be glassed anyways, but just wanted to check.
     
  13. rcengr

    rcengr Vendor

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    The directions should read 1/32" plywood. It would be quite difficult to bend 3/32" ply around the bottom. I'm pretty sure some of the builders here use 1/32 balsa to sheet the bottom before fiberglassing. For myself, I think the 1/32 balsa is too fragile, I prefer something that will not get a hole as soon as I move it on my messy bench.
     
  14. NASAAN101

    NASAAN101 Well-Known Member

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    Gruuler,
    She's looking great!!!!
    Nikki
     
  15. jstod

    jstod Well-Known Member

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    Another method you can use is putting 1/4" balsa blocks in between the ribs and sand them to form. This gives you nice thick bottom so it is not as fragile when sanding or working with. reference here: http://www.rcnavalcombat.com/Forum/tabid/58/aff/566/aft/407920/afv/topic/Default.aspx

    Page 2 about half way down starts to go into it.

    Good luck.
     
  16. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    You could also use 1/4 inch balsa to fill in between the ribs, and then sand off the access. That's what I did on my Suffren, and it worked really well.
    Beaver
     
  17. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    Oops, didn't see your post.
    Beaver
     
  18. Gruuler

    Gruuler Member

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    Just wanted to let you guys know I haven't given up on my ship yet. I've assembled the flight deck as well as the water channel in the ship. I'm working on the bass wood rail right now and am getting close to sheeting the bottom.
     
  19. Gruuler

    Gruuler Member

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    [​IMG]
    Water channel set
    [​IMG]
    Railing set also.
    I've got a bit of sanding ahead of me tomorrow, but after that and a trip to Carson City this weekend, I'll be working on the plywood bottom, and to be honest I feel just a bit intimidated by it. Any advice?
     
  20. jstod

    jstod Well-Known Member

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    Are you using the sheets or planking?