How about the weekend of the 13th to 14th? I'm available either day but on call again so have to be in Metro. There may be an after work battle next week (Wednesday?) weather permitting. Bob
I think the main forum is having problems with posts disappearing again. To repost this morning's message: Ralph, Scott and I are free for a battle on the 14th. Waiting for confirmation from Jason, Henry, and Rob. I haven't heard from John re his NC Class battleship's status. Tom has left for university and won't be back until next summer. I have Steve's HMCS Ontario but it has to be gutted and rebuilt so I doubt it will be ready in 2 weeks. By the end of the month we should have 7-8 captains with battle ready Treaty spec ships. Paul would like to battle with us using his IRCWCC Prinz Eugen (WWI). If he can reduce the speed (maybe by running on one prop vs two) that should be OK with everybody. Bob
I should be able to make it with the Konig. I have replaced the throttle switches with an ESC and I should be able to get the speed down as slow as I need.
Rob, Are you available for any after-work battles in the next 2 weeks? If Jason and Henry attend we'll have 6 captains for the battle on the 14th: Ralph - HMS Black Prince Bob - HMS Minotaur, HMS Gorgon or HMCS Prince Robert Scott - HMS Abdiel or USS Little Rock Rob - SMS Konig Henry - SMS Von der Tann Jason - USS New Jersey or HMS Glatton (sistership of Gorgon) At this point I don't know if a CO2 tank will be available - the one we used might be going to NB for NABS' Cannats X. In that case we should all arrive with full CO2 bottels and I'll bring my spare bottles for others to use for the cost of the fills. I forgot to collect $5 for CO2 from people who got fills last time. That only applies to captains who were not paid NABS members for 2007 or 2008. Bob
Hi Bob the small tank is coming up for that weekend with the clubs fill station but the large tank should be available. Jay Jennings has the large tank but I do not know how much gas is in it.
Little Rock is being set-up so it can run with either the 3.5oz bottle or the 3oz capsules. If co2 is a problem I can run on capsules and fill the bottle as a spare for another boat.
Scott, Using capsules for the Little Rock is a good idea. Black Prince has already been converted to capsules. Minotaur can be converted quickly with a spare Palmer regulator (made for capsules) and some lead ballast forward to compensate for removal of the 4 oz steel CO2 bottle. Only the two German WWI ships and the New Jersey will need CO2 bottles. With our spare bottles they should have enough CO2 for a 2 sortie battle. Bob
It's a pro-boat. Visit this site Apparently some people tried them last year and didn't like them, but it's what I had so I used it. It's 20amps forward and only 10 in reverse - so stopping takes a little longer than it should. I am also only running 1 motor which might make a difference. It simplified the wiring and anything that can reduce the clutter is welcome. It has a BEC so I can get rid of the radio battery too. If it works out, I'll replace it with a better item if one can be found.
ya rob i was using them in my boats but the problem is that its on %50 in reverse and can be weird to get working but once running i have never had a problem
Hi Jay, Both John and Steve thought there'd be no need to top off the tank because less than a 10th of the CO2 was used for our small Treaty battle. John said the small tank is good for the equivalent of 80 x 3.5 oz bottle fills and we used only 7. There should be enough gas left for the relatively small NABS event, and Chris O. has a large fill station in NB too. John said people should not be wasting gas by filling and venting bottles to cool them, in the mistaken belief that the cooler bottles have significantly more capacity. That is not true - John checked. That practice wasted large amounts of CO2 at past NABS events. If you want to top off the tank call John. I'm not sure where he had it filled. Bob
Hi Bob. The Bottles can be topped off if they are generally cool. After a first sortie the bottles should be cool enough to take some gas and you can top off. Bottles that are warm do not take a full charge as well as a cool bottle. This I have experineced with and checked with various paintball shops and FIre Extinguisher shops. If your bottle was half full and the bottle became warm you need to bleed the bottle to allow the liquid coolant to vent and activate to expand and create the gas. We had guys venting their bottles because the tank was being TOPPED OFF with just the gas alone from beer and wine shops instead of a complete purge. It has to do with the amount of liquid co2 the bottle is filled with that provides the co2 gas. We had this issue when the tank was being filled or topped off at wine and beer distillerys. They do TOP offs but they vent CO2 gas not the actual liquid. At the fire extinguisher and paint ball shops they fill with liquid co2 and gas. They purge the bottles first to cool it to allow the bottles to fill more with co2 liquid then gas as you need the liquid to provide the gas pressure. A cooler bottle contains more co2 liquid than a warm bottle and provides co2 pressure in the gas. A tank in storage for a long time without use will not have the same amt of co2 liquid as when first filled fresh. If the tank was in storage for along time the tank is purged and cooled and topped off again. A warm bottle is lighter and has less liquid co2 in it than a cooler bottle. The cooler bottle will perform better and deliver more pressure longer than a warmer bottle. If a tank is nearly empty it is best to purge what little remaining co 2 is in it and then fill it. You don't need to dump a whole bottl.Best is to just do a quick purge just turn on for a sec or 2 then turn off and fill. Remember the issue we had back in 05 regarding the co2 tank. That issue I resolved when I found out that the tank was being topped off and not actually filled.( PURGED)We were getting less and less gas with each top off because less and less liquid co2 was being filled. I had to research what was happening and spoke to the professionals in the industry on it. Norm Wasson can also tell you since he worked in this industry himself and I got excellent advice from him how this stuff works. If you want less gas wasted, better seals on the valves. I keep my bottles in a cool place when filled and they are rarely ever warm. Just 2 wks ago I brought my bottles to a local paint ball shop and the bottles were very warm being the car. They had to fill the bottle and purge it and fill it again so that the bottle could take the correct amount of liquid co2. It's not the gas they measure it's the amount of liquid co2 the bottle can take in a fills. I don't know what John' sources are but if you don't want a repeat of what happened in 05 then make sure the bottle is properly being filled and the ships have no leaks in thier pnuematic systems and cannons, the seals are tight on the fills station and that the bottle is stored in a proper place. The Captains need to make sure that they do not waste gas while filling and that they do not waste the gas during battle when firing the cannons. All this has an impact on co2 supply in the ships and with the main supply bottle. Hope this is of use to you.
I was looking at them also. I order a lot of stuff from PEI. I almost ordered the same one, but since my hardware kit came with gearboxes I put them in. The kit came with 14 tooth gears and I have 12 tooth and 16 tooth on hand,as well as a few different props. Hopefully I can get close to 32 knots(28 seconds)I'm sure I can,but if not I'll be putting in an ESC. On the Treaty forum they had a 100amp one from Polks Hobby some of them are using and it seems to work fine. I think cost was 25 american.
