The speed controller you have must not be waterproof if you putting in a water tight box. It will also create a fair amount of heat and will not be able to dissipate it properly. the fan will only be blowing around hot air since it is self contained. also, a fan adds complexity and another item that can fail. We run a Pro Boat speed controller in one boat and a Mtroniks speed contour in another. Both SCs are water proof. They are placed in the bottom of the boat and the water in the bilge cools them. Not in a dry box another option is just a switch for fwd and one for reverse (in water tight box). since your LST is like a cargo ship, would think it would be full ahead or full astern. our cargo ship uses this. saved the money/speed controler for the warships.
Guys, I know that seems Stupid, But the way I'm looking at doing it, is the when she gets off the water the boxes will be able to open, and that way she get air in the boxes! anyway, the speed control i have for her is the Tazer 15T! its A RC car speed control, But it should work for her!!! Nikki
You really do not need the fan since it won't cool anything inside a watertight box. The ESC will not get hot while powering two 380 motors to need a cooling fan. May as well take it off or disconnect it and save yourself any future problems. During a battle weekend, you may want to avoid opening the watertight box unless you absolutely have to. Everytime the box is opened and closed there is a potential for a water leak. If it is keeping the water out, then don't mess with it. You may want to consider waterproofing the ESCs and leaving them outside the box. All of my ships in service now use waterproofed RC car speed controls that sit in the hull outside of any watertight container. Waterproofing can be done with Scotchkote, epoxy, or other methods. Having the ESC outside the watertight box makes it easy to troubleshoot and fix the ESc and wiring to the motors without compromising the radio system inside the watertight box.
Mikey, this might sound stupid, but how do you waterproof the Tazer 15T? if you look at a photo of it, it looks hard with on the opening it has! Here: http://www.horizonhobby.co.uk/autoonline/j15dynamite/j15_motor_esc/j15_tazer.html ... can anyone give me some ideas?? the site I gave you as a few Speed controls the one I have is on the top of the page ok! M
Nikki, if you look around the forums such as in the Electrical section, you would find the answer. Maybe try looking in this thread: www.rcnavalcombat.com/Forum/tabid/5...fault.aspx The ESC will have small screws or tabs holding the case together. You can take the case off to waterproof the electronics inside or simply put the entire receiver into a small pot of resin. It is up to you. I HIGHLY suggest you attend a build session for help. There are a few in your region almost every weekend.
Thanks Mikey, Sorry for being such a nag about this, You all have been great with me!! Also, Dose anyone use the very small Hardware store utility Boxes! I was able to see how much room I have in LST's hull and I have 11inches x 4inches x 2inches to play with!But I'm also looking at how to keep the battery from moving side to side!! Nikki
hey Guys, Here are two Prlican Micro cases that I'm looking at the first on is this one: http://www.pelicanproducts.us/p.Pelican.Micro.Case.1015.HTML .. That's the Pelican™ 1015 Micro Case, the Exterior Dimensions 6.68" x 3.88" x 1.86" or (16.97 x 9.86 x 4.72 cm) and the Interior Dimensions are: 5.14" x 2.64" x 1.37" or (13.06 x 6.71 x 3.48 cm). and the other is this one: http://www.pelicanproducts.us/p.Pelican.Micro.Case.1030.HTML .. the Exterior Dimensions for tha one is 7.50" x 3.87" x 2.43" or (19.05 x 9.83 x 6.17 cm) and the Interior Dimensions are: 6.37" x 2.62" x 2.06" or (16.18 x 6.65 x 5.23 cm)!! Let me know what you guys thing of the ok!! Nikki
Both of the cases you listed specifically say not for swimming or submerging. Instead, look at the 1020 case which is suited for submersion. It has a rubber liner that gives an awesome waterproof seal. I use the 1020 cases in my ships and have never had one leak yet. One of cases was tested to 7' depth for around 10 minutes and did not have a single drop inside of it.
The 1020 is not for submerging either. http://pelican.com/cases_detail.php?Case=1020 (Yes I have read the cert that the 1010, 1020 and 30 have, just pointing out what Pelican has in big red letters on their own product page)/ I use a 1010 (or was it a 1020 - can't remember - same design, just scaled) in my Derfflinger. It hasn't been deep-sunk yet but it has done the job in a few feet of water. Everything inside it is skotchkoted anyways.
Thanks Nick, How do you skotchkoted a Speed control and a two channel receiver? Mikey, That's cool! Like i said, I have 11inches x 4inches x 2inches to play with! But that why i was looking at those two!! But i understand! I might also, Pot them in a bellow two, but i'm not sure!Nikki
Egg on my face for that one. Heh. I didn't look at the 1020 product page and relied on first hand knowledge with the case. Good call on skotchkoting also. A watertight box might not be so watertight and any additional waterproofing of components inside the box may prevent problems mid-battle.
Mike, How do you skotchkoted a Speed control and a two channel receiver? can you use tool bip to or will that not work??? and i know you have to type it up if you use that, right? i'm also looking at how to keep the batteries from moving, any ideas? Nikki
Skotchkote is a brand name of an electrical insulation material. It is very effective at keeping water off of electronics. Do not use tool dip. Although it does coat electronics, tool dip tends to pull away from the electronics and allows water to seep in between it and the electronic device. Skotchkote is much better because it does not pull away. I think it was explained in another thread and even earlier in this thread. For receivers, remove the case and brush Skotchkote on the electronic board. Make sure to cover everything except the pins that the servos plug into. Put the case back on and you are done. Do the same process for a speed control. Take off the case and brush Skotchkote onto the electronic board. Then put the board back into the case. I really do think you may need someone to show you how to waterproof. Reading about it can help, but many people (like my daughter) learn better by seeing (visual learning) than reading (book learning). Please try to make at least one build session someplace. It will help you so much.
A quick search on Youtube got a lot of How To videos on waterproofing ... such as this one. www.youtube.com/watch Although I do not recommend plastic spray or liquid rubber, the video does show a good explaination on how to waterproof an ESC. Hope that helps.
Mike, I know!!! But I'm more of the people, who like to do thing on her own and with my mom understanding some of the electronics, as she and my late step dad were both on the ham radio? Nikki
The point is, Nikki, is that if you ask a question and someone answers, then you ignore the advice ... no one is going to help anymore. So please go on and do your own thing and I will stop answering your questions.
Mikey, Sorry!!!!!!! But anyway!! this was a question, my mom, with Skotchkote, how dose it work?????????? Nikki
