I just hooked up my new receivor 2.4ghz to my serovs and got them all working .Now to trim them out and begin to make the cams. Receivor ON/0FF switch works. I think my RX batteries need to be cycled and recharged. They seem low in power after a long layup this winter. I'm going to read the manual on the new radio to get familiar with the new functions. My favorite function is the flip swtich toggle that turns on the pump or the lights.
I finished reading the manual for the TX and RX. Geez like reading up on how to fly in the cockpit of the space shuttle. Anyway going to get started on the cams and stuff.
Nothing wrong with the receivor battery's power. I had to make adustments on the servos and set them to neutral . They sped up quite a bit. Rudder linkage is hooked up and the rudders are turning perfectly with lots of throw angle both sides.
Turned on the bilge pump and light blue powder blew from the outet tupe exiting the pump. Wierd sound too. Tried again more blue smoke. Looks like the output tube from the base of the impellor was in a wee too far and it was shaving down my impellor. I'll have to pull the pump apart to see how much blade was shaved off. I may have to replace the impellor. Fortunaltly I have spares on hand. I need 3 servo extensions for the receivor then I can begin to seal the receivor.
I spent a lot of time playing with pumps this last month. I managed to come up with a complete drop in replacement for mine with sensor attached. Plug and play Good thing you have spare impellers, Mine rubbed a bit until I got them set where I wanted
Think I will inject dieelectric grease into the plugin ports then put the plugs in and seal with expoxy or Tool dip. Then I may place in a small clear container with predrilled holes to allow the anternnaes to exit and the other sides run the extensions through it. THen seal the entire case in 2 coats of tool dip. That should seal it and I may cover the exit points with expoxy or Goop.
I reassembled the pump and tested. I had reverse polarity on the motor leads. Unsoldered and corrected it. Tested again. Much better. The impellor had only a light shavings but no damage to the impellor itself. Whew! Getting things secured and mounted in the hull. Once the housework is done inside the hull, the cams installed and tested I hope I can get it out next week weather permitting for a float test.
That sounds like it will work well. I have learned to check my motor rotations for that same reason. Don't forget to pour some water in your boat when testing (I use a garden hose) and make sure the pump runs a few minutes. It will give you a good read on where the water will be, if the pump gets done what you want and how much water it takes to overwhelm it.
Trying to get used to the new TX. The low battery signal started pinging. The radio was below 9v. Not sure I like this part of the radio. I could run my previous radios in the red for a long time before the servos acted up. I was in the middle of adjusting all the servos. I got another problem with the pump activation/light activation. The servo to operate that is the Gear up/down channel. Problem is getting the servo to travel just enough to activate one switch and when the switch is flipped the othe direction the servo will travel opposite to activate the lights. I was just in the process of getting the trimm figured out whne the TX died on me. Grrr..... I was playing around with the radio and had a Dual Rate setting activated where when ever the dual sidemount was activated one of the swtiches for the pump or lights would activate simultaneoulsy. Now in the old days of Bismarck I used to operate my pump switch via the rudder throw. When ever I did a shallow turn the pump would activate till the rudder was straight. When I was in a sharp turn or rudders hard over the pump would activate and stay on till I went hard over again. It worked pretty well. But this time I just want to activate lights and the pump with the flip of the switch.
Curt the 2.4 radios eat batteries. More precisely it eats the transmitter battery. Most of them come with a 600-700 mah battery. You might want to get a higher capacity transmiotter battery.
Sounds like a great idea. These batteries suck. Crazy that such a sophisticated TX would have a low standard battery. Still trying to get used to programming this thing. So far not going well. I think I prefer the no fuss FM regular tx then this type. Too much fussing around with the set up. Trim tabs are enough for me than this stuff.
http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/showitem.asp?ItemID=10052.10 ... HAS anyone tried these battery packs and if so are they good packs? I was thinking of getting this for my Futuba FASST 2.4ghz TX.
Update. Finally... I got my throttle switches working again. I built a new cam to operate my other switches which have a little roller wheel at the tip of the tab. No way I can over throw the throttle stick and have the cam jam it up. I tried several times to jam them. If the throttle servo goes bananas and starts to spin around on it's own it's not going to cause the ship to go crazy. Hope not anyway. I had to remove some cross sections of the tray to make more room for it. I also had to recrimp the lead tabs on the switches so that they don't fall off. The tabs on my other switches are slightly smaller. I also drilled 2 holes in the back wall of the radio box to feed the servo leads through and away from the servos to avoid entanglement and away from the throttle switches. The servo leads will connect to the extensions coming from the receivor which will be attached to the main hatch underside with industrial velcro. When I need to remove the hatch I can leave it attached or pop the receivor off the underside of the main hatch. I also did house cleaning on the wires and they are tucked neatly away to the port side in wire plastic clamps. Also I removed the little velcro strips from the barbettes and built 2 platforms that overhang the back side of the barbettes. They are tall and allow the turret to rest on their tops. They have industrial velcro which secures them in place. I tried to lift one off and lifted the entire hatch with it. So they are secured well and won't get shot off. Plus it allows the turrets to sit flat on the barbettes. I couldn't do the same for the aft turrets but they are secured well back there. Now thte next thing is to waterproof the receivor , vacuume the interior of the hull, and attach deck tabs to secure the decks. I hope to get the model out this Saturday for a float test and hopefully a first test run. I'll post some pics later this week of the work I did tonight.
Nice work, I just got back from regionals and have the entire boat patched and painted, a new drive line installed and reworked the rear guns. I also found a rudder that sticks (fixed), a pump motor that needed oil and pulled the prop shaft and regreased it. I found quite a few things out from battling this week.
Excellent glad you found the bugs and working them out. I am trying to reduce the amount of bugs that may crop up. I have all the sevos removed and their soaked in their 2nd coat of dip. I decided to dip the receivoer will place 2 coats on that , then seal the plugs with a thick layer of Goop and then bag the receivor seal it again or I may place it in a plastic container and seal it . I got a receivor in Bismarck that is heavily tooldip and it will never leak it's so thick.
Excellent glad you found the bugs and working them out. I am trying to reduce the amount of bugs that may crop up. I have all the sevos removed and their soaked in their 2nd coat of dip. I decided to dip the receivoer will place 2 coats on that , then seal the plugs with a thick layer of Goop and then bag the receivor seal it again or I may place it in a plastic container and seal it . I got a receivor in Bismarck that is heavily tooldip and it will never leak it's so thick.
