PFB's Lützow (IRCWCC)

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by pigeonfarmboy, Jun 27, 2016.

  1. pigeonfarmboy

    pigeonfarmboy Well-Known Member

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    Got a Strike Lutzow kit I'm starting. This is my first build along with the Vac-u-boat Fletcher. Thought I was going to get my windows cut this weekend. Turns out the top of the hull needs to be cut straight for measuring reference first. (I am a hobby machinist which is probably a really bad thing for boat building. But I'd rather it be right than have to make big fixes later on)

    Wavy Gravy! (this is the "good" side)
    [​IMG]

    Decided to use 17 Ribs @ 1/4" and 1 @ 3/8". I will space ribs to 1" apart in bow and open the spacing apart towards the stern. Will post photos before cutting to verify.

    Questions:
    1. Planning to run dual sterns with solenoid actuation. Should I run a 50 & 75 cannon with large pump or go for two 75s with a small pump? Thinking the latter would be a better setup. Too bad as the kit comes with the 50 for a bow gun.

    2. Armor belt stringer does not count towards allowed non-penetrable area correct?

    3. Drill bit size for window corners is 5/32 or 3/16? BC and Strike instructions have conflicting info.

    4. What do you guys use to measure the 45* angle cutoff point for the bottom of windows? I used my tablesaw angle ruler but it's only eyeball accuracy at best.
     
  2. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    Swanson speed square. One of the most useful tools in my shop.
     
  3. absolutek

    absolutek -->> C T D <<--

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    What ruleset are you building for? You can't do two 75 round cannons unless you are building for Treaty. You could do any combination of 50 round cannon (1.0 units), 75 round cannon (1.5 units, max one in IRCWCC) and pump (large 1.0 unit or small 0.5 unit) that you like. If you are new, I would suggest a stern 75 round (this will be your primary gun) and bow 50 round cannons with a large pump because you will make mistakes and you will need it.

    Once you get more comfortable with your ship i would suggest trying triple stern 50bb cannons and a small pump.

    Only ribs count, the stringer(s) do not.

    I use 1/8", use which ever drill bit you use the least as it will be dull from drilling fibreglass afterwards.

    A 45° triangle against the hull.
     
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  4. pigeonfarmboy

    pigeonfarmboy Well-Known Member

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    Ah good call, I know I wrote that down somewhere but failed to record it in my brain.
     
  5. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    I'd go with the dual 75's in the rear. This gives you options. You can always "uprate" the half-unit pump by putting a one unit restrictor on it (you would then only load 50 rounds in the one cannon). Also, increasing the mag length on that 50 is easy to do.
     
  6. pigeonfarmboy

    pigeonfarmboy Well-Known Member

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    I like that idea. I sailed Mark Roe's Graf Spee with dual sterns and it made good sense to me as far as strategy goes. The bow gun doesn't seem like an ideal use of units to me.
     
  7. absolutek

    absolutek -->> C T D <<--

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    Building for Treaty?
     
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  8. pigeonfarmboy

    pigeonfarmboy Well-Known Member

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    Nope, title of the thread should clear it up haha.

    Appreciate all the help gents!
     
  9. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    Then you can't go with dual 75s. Can't split whole units in class 3 ships and even if you could, the rules also prohibit multiple 1.5unit guns.
     
  10. absolutek

    absolutek -->> C T D <<--

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    If you like duals that much you can certainly do a 50bb and 75bb cannon beside each other. You should checkout the cruiser firing board at Battlers Connection, it allows either dual or individual fire.
     
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  11. pigeonfarmboy

    pigeonfarmboy Well-Known Member

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    Yup, reread the rules last night. Thanks.

    Will do, thanks!
     
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  12. Bob

    Bob Well-Known Member

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    That cruiser is best set up with trip sterns and a 1/2 unit pump. Cruisers always come back with very light damage a 1/2 pump is plenty. More bbs are better.

    Make sure and float it at the heavy scale weight to find the waterline. If you cut down to the 45 mark you'll have windows that are too big. Only the last 6" or so of the stern should be at the 45deg mark.
     
  13. pigeonfarmboy

    pigeonfarmboy Well-Known Member

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    I'm considering that setup as well. Going from the water line on the plans, that's what I'm seeing on the hull. I will verify it corresponds to the plans with a float test.
     
  14. Bob

    Bob Well-Known Member

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    Best to float and mark it. Who knows what the plan is based on. My first cruiser has the window cut a 1/4" too deep. I have seen a lot of first ships have this done. Cut it, build it, if the windows aren't low enough cut them down next time you resheet.
     
  15. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    Agreed. Unless made from the original hull offsets, most plans in the hobby are an interpretation of what the ship looked like. For this hobby there are only three factors that are important, length, breadth, and weight as listed in the ship list. Length and breadth are set set in stone (or resin). The variable factor is weight. Weight the boat, find the waterline, measure down 1".
     
  16. pigeonfarmboy

    pigeonfarmboy Well-Known Member

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    Thinking through the cannon system. I've decided on the Triple Stern/Small Bilge setup. I have an understanding of a single cannon setup but I know the Triple adds extra issues to address.

    1. Does each cannon need a dedicated solenoid?
    2. Does each cannon require an accumulator tank or is it better to gang them together in a single larger tank?
    3. Do I have the order correct for air flow? Tank>Reg>Accumulator(s)>Solenoid(s)>Cannons
     
  17. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    1. It works better that way usually.
    2. Dedicated volumes of air are easier to troubleshoot but you could do it either way. You may be able to simply use long runs of larger ID tubing to feed the solenoids in place of a tank. That has been done with success.
    3. Yes
     
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  18. pigeonfarmboy

    pigeonfarmboy Well-Known Member

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    Oooooh hadn't thought of that.
     
  19. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    Use the stuff on the left and push to connect fittings. It's rated at 550psi. 18" will give you 2 square inches internal volume. McMaster link http://www.mcmaster.com/#5173k36/=132xupa

    The yellow stuff is smaller on the inside but more flexible and easier to route. Rated at 290psi. 18" gets you 1.8 square inches of volume. http://www.mcmaster.com/#5635k73/=132xzsv


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2016
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  20. Trey Schultz

    Trey Schultz Member

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    I would put check valves on each line to solenoid with accumulator between the check valve and solenoid. This will reserve gas for each gun so they don't agree from each other.

    I do this with my dual sterns and on triples it is absolutely necessary.
     
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