Increase chamber temperature. If you have a chamber at all, that is. If you dont, you need to enclose for ABS printing. Increase bed temp. I like 110c for ABS. Try printing with a brim. Lastly, and most importantly: Corner lift for me happens on high infill large surface area kinda prints. Imagine the middle section of a big fat boat like Bart or 1920 South Dakota or QE. The "hips" that are solid 40% infill. The ABS wants to shrink, if you cant keep chamber temps up and bed adhesion super high, you'll end up with corner lift. But the advice above is what I personally do and I normally never have issues.
I printed something pretty big last night. I got no corner lift. The nozzle was 255 and the bed was 90.
I run similar temps: 255C (-ish, depends on filament) nozzle but always 110C on the print bed. Usually I don't need to run a raft or brim, but sharp corners are the enemy and can warrant a brim or disk. I also don't open my chamber post-print until the bed cools down to around 60c. Not sure what that equates to in chamber temp, but the large print bed (350x350) doubles as a very effective chamber heater in my case. Someone once told me (or I read) to keep the bed above the glass transition temp while printing for best adhesion. For ABS that's about 105C. In any case, the 110C works well for me.
Another hypothesis that I had was that my printer and soft cover en-closure is next to a window. On the print that had the corners lift the most, it was a pretty windy day. I'm thinking the wind came threw the window and shook the soft cover on the enclosure. That resulted in air moving around the enclosure more and cooling the part incorrectly. I have closed the window to test it out.
On my X1c, if my infill is higher than 20% it lifts the corners (or the magnetic sheet in extreme cases). The Arizona I printed, I wanted to add mass to the hull to minimize the ballast weight needed to reach the 20lb scale weight. I upped the infill in the center sections to 30% and had horrible corner lift. The bow and stern were my normal 15% and were as flat as possible. I run a wide brim, glue stick, and specific point tabs to help spread the forces.
I’m having another issue now, The infill layers are extremely stringy and not holding together. The perimeters are beautiful though. Im sure it has to be a setting just not sure where to look.
Yep, looks like a partial nozzle clog. Haven't seen one of those in a while. I got them a few times from poor-quality plastic, and a few times from dust/debris on the plastic. I also get them a bunch whenever I change plastic types (ABS to PETG, PLA, etc). That's why I only print ABS now. I also printed a small filament cleaner, basically a hollow cube that holds a bit of sponge against the filament and wipes off any dust/debris before the filament goes into the extruder.
fillament cleaner is a neat idea. I definitely got cheaper ABS on Amazon. I think I’m skilled enough to graduate to better ABS. I read a couple reviews and it looks like Polymer makes some good ABS.
Wet filament leading to a clog. I use Novamaker ABS. Apparently it has some issues with repeated high heat cycles but boat parts are not under that kind of stress.
So I did stick a thermistor into my enclosure. Looks like it stabilizes at around 44.5C while printing.
I use Zyltech ABS. They're American based, sure the filament is most likely made in China and resold, but I like the product and it works well for me. Plus they offer it in 5kg spools. They have sales periodically with % off + free shipping, I'll do big 100kg bulk buys to stock up for the store. I set my chamber to 48c when I print ABS. Either no fan, or at max 30%.
I think my spool of ABS absorbed a lot of moister. I have left it out in my garage since the start of this thread. is there a good way to dry it out? I’ve read about filament dryers but not sure if it’s worth it. Also read just stick it in the oven for four hours. My concern with that is that the cardboard spool would ignite. suggestions?
Well, the oven method depends on how well your particular oven controls temperature. ABS doesn't need to be that hot (~150F) to drive off the moisture though. Usually I end up just using those spools that have too much moisture for test prints where I don't care about the print quality and just want to see the object in real-space and make sure that it isn't hiding any weirdness that I've missed in the cad program. Otherwise, Ziplock freezer baggies and silica gel packs for filament storage here. It's a consumable item and a lot of times, it's simpler for me to just order a new spool when I want to dial up the print quality.
I think I am close to getting the kinks worked out. Right now my enclosure is getting too hot. The fan that cools the heat sink is just recirculating the hot air causing the feed tube to melt, stick and cause jams.
Or....even more horrific....*gags*....he could be running a bowden extruder instead of direct drive and it could be making the PTFE bowden tube soft in the heated enclosure. THE HUMANITY
