Please help me with order of assembly

Discussion in 'Construction' started by canx2k, Aug 7, 2015.

  1. canx2k

    canx2k Well-Known Member

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    Here's the photo, labeled with numbers - can anyone help me figure out the order of assembly? As I piece it together, I look at what is here and have extras so clearly I'm missing something.

    IMAG0934_zpszmp2hlse21.png
     
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  2. irnuke

    irnuke -->> C T D <<--

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    Drivetrain: Prop (2) connects to driveshaft (3 or 4, hard to tell scale in pic... the solid rod). shaft bushing (10) inserts into ends of stuffing tube (8). Dogbone collar (5) attaches to other end of driveshaft. Dogbone(7) connects to other collar (6) that is locked onto gearbox output shaft (1).

    Not sure in pic what 12 is.
     
  3. SnipeHunter

    SnipeHunter Well-Known Member

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    12 is part of the rudder setup and connects to 4 (driveshaft looks to be 3) 12 should hook into the rudder servo horn. (4 looks to be the pushrod for the rudder)
     
  4. canx2k

    canx2k Well-Known Member

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    This is exactly what I needed. The 3 and 4 are different diam. rods, one has threads on the end, one has a grinded down side - presume that's what the prop allan key grips on.
    So like this, and assuming those ends actually allow the driveshaft through them, they would be placed in the stuffing rod. I think I will have to drill them out because the rod doesn't insert at all into them, it's way too tight. The top items aren't used for this application, but rather for the rudder setup, yes?

    Another stupid question, how is this at all waterproof?
    DSCF0002.JPG
     
  5. irnuke

    irnuke -->> C T D <<--

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    Usually the stuffing tube is filled w/ lithium grease both to reduce friction & leakage. But all prop shafts (including real ones on ships) have a little leakage. Other thing to keep in mind is the shaft & tube can be cut down as needed to fit your hull. The pic shows the shaft is way longer than the tube. Unless you cut the shaft down or put some locking collar on the ends, your prop would slide back & your dogbone would decouple.
     
  6. SnipeHunter

    SnipeHunter Well-Known Member

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    Other than some grease on the prop shaft like irnuke said (really more to reduce friction than stop leakage) there isnt anything there that needs to be waterproofed. Even the motor will be fine running wet.
     
  7. ish311

    ish311 Active Member

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    11 looks like a set collar to keep the shaft from coming loose forwards place between dogbone collar and stuffing tube

    nylon fitting is screwed onto the smaller rod and is give a z bend through pliers( special or not so special)
     
  8. rcengr

    rcengr Vendor

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    Right, the set collar is to put on the shaft so that it stays in the stuffing tube. Since the shaft is longer than the stuffing tube, the collar on one end and the prop on the other end will keep it from sliding back and forth. Don't drill out the bronze bearings, they are precision reamed to the right size. If the shaft is not inserting easy, take some fine sandpaper and polish up the shaft a little.
     
  9. rcengr

    rcengr Vendor

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    Oh, and you can probably shorten the motor shaft, or at least cut off the threads.
     
  10. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    I nominate this as the Best Request for Help EVER thread. Picture of the parts, with all the parts numbered. Holy crap what a great idea and why has it taken till now for anyone to figure this out?! This includes ME. This is a great idea CanX :)
     
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  11. canx2k

    canx2k Well-Known Member

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    Haha thanks - After being on enough car forums and the disgruntled boys and girls there - you gotta make the questions clear and photos engaging or people flame you to bits. This site however, I'm amazed a the grace offered for one another - hence why I'm still around rather than moving to a model forum. You guys are just - nice!
     
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