Thats an interesting concept. Ive been using 7/16-24 flare nuts but fast gun barrels are used differently (squish an oring to create the firing pressures) Plastic barrels are going to get wrecked in short order.
This will be a big gun, using fast gun concepts, like o-rings & pistons. Same tech as used in Surcouf. Why do you think plastic barrels will wear out?
from a shell? Or a ship impact? The barrel would be the same thickness as the hull, which can take a hit. Anyway, if it gets a lucky hit; it’s it’ll be just a quick repair away…
Justin, how many rounds does it carry per barrel? Will it have all three barrels armed? What range of motion will it have? @darkapollo, BigGunJeff has been using 3d-printed barrels in Big Gun cannons for several years now. He's put thousands of rounds through those tight-tolerance curves. I also used to use 3d-printed barrels on my Fast Gun cannons. I only stopped because commercially-made brass threaded fittings give more repeatable precision tweaking than 3d-printed threads could. There was never any question of toughness or damage resistance vs normal stainless or other metal barrels. I only ever broke a 3d-printed barrel in the shop, not in combat.
Rounds per barrel, not sure yet. I haven’t chosen a final mag shape yet. I’d like to try moving away from a tube, but….? I am trying for all three rifles, but two for sure. Range of motion for this version should be 360, but I’ll be using about 270. I am abandoning the rotate concepts I’ve seen here at NTXBG, they are too slow for my taste.
3x cannons, 7/32" big gun caliber in a single rotating turret! Now I just need my replacement thermistor, because I have two ships ready for printing!!!!!
Just one suggestion, I know this is for big gun not fast gun, but those prop shaft struts look suspect to me. I originally made mine 1/4" thick and they didn't hold up. Now I make them 3/8" thick, and heavily contoured/filleted into the hull to give them strength. Are they super scale? No. But the real ship wasn't plastic either. Also, you really can remove that little flare up in the 2nd from the stern penetrable window. The "weather deck" back there is technically that stern deck until you're clear into the next window. That little flare up area will be annoying to sheet and makes that whole area a little less strong, as any impact forces along the rib will concentrate in that area. I'd just cut that window straight across to the rib. Your progress here has been awesome, and your surcouf gun is very impressive. I can't wait to see the printed product on the water.
>Your progress here has been awesome, and your surcouf gun is very impressive. I can't wait to see the printed product on the water. Thanks! I took the day off expecting that my replacement thermistor would show up last night, like UPS said it would. It's still not here, and UPS has no update. I thought I would have had AT LEAST another revision of Surcouf cannon AND a Deutschland section printed by now. GRRRR. > prop struts Thanks for the suggestion!! Surcouf's struts are the same size & shape and they seem pretty sturdy so far. I think I'll put them on the water & see how it fails. > stern penetrable window Done! Thank you!!
They may be 100% fine for big gun. Fast gun we move a lot faster and run into stuff/each other a lot harder. Those puppies would be gone sortie #1 for us So this is probably just a use-case difference
REALLY well done. I have a soft spot for German ships and you made an awesome model. One day Ill get around to making a AGS… and a PE…
Yep, definitely use-case difference. For all but the heaviest Big Gun battleships, those prop-shaft struts are completely optional. I see a lot of ships simply omit them.
Get yourself a good 3D pen. Warps happen. Having a good 3D pen can be the difference between ‘body filler’ and a total reprint.
ohhh… I’ve picked up another couple functionality ideas from the NTXBG guys this weekend… these are going to be fun mix of big and small gun concepts.
Mine on the Suffren were 1/4" and we were breaking them off. I made them 3/8". Also make sure you have sufficient thickness all the way around the shaft stuffing tube in the strut, as that will be a massive weak spot as well. 1/4" can work fine if properly filleted into the boat and such to remove and sharp transitions and keep material thickness high.
