Pocket Battleship Deutschland

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by JustinScott, Nov 20, 2022.

  1. darkapollo

    darkapollo Well-Known Member

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    Add a channel to the stringers so you can put ⅛” round bar as an impact surface. The plastic is not going to be terribly strong between the ribs and having that little bit of metal serving as an intermediate surface can save the stringers from being destroyed.
     
  2. bsgkid117

    bsgkid117 Vendor

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    What he said, plus:

    [​IMG]

    That little notch where the deck step is has returned! lol
     
  3. JustinScott

    JustinScott Well-Known Member

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    got it. Thx!
     
  4. JustinScott

    JustinScott Well-Known Member

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    Damn notch!
     
  5. Commodore

    Commodore Well-Known Member

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    Just a suggestion - that box behind the deck step - make it a separate piece attached to the lower deck, so it's removable. Having large portions of the deck occluded like that can be a nightmare when having to work on things, because inevitably *something* fiddly wants to live in the spot underneath the non-removable part.
     
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  6. JustinScott

    JustinScott Well-Known Member

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    Progress!

    So far, the printer configuration is slowing me down the most.

    AB17B5C4-4137-4946-80BB-2F90858BB75F.jpeg
     
  7. JustinScott

    JustinScott Well-Known Member

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    Cannon progress!

    https://youtube.com/shorts/CtQPvZeumzo?feature=share

    It's interesting that when the co2 "bottle" is mostly full the cannon typically fires one round only.

    Once it's nears the end of the bottle, it fires multiple rounds more often.

    I think this makes sense, since it uses a pressure differential to push the piston & keep the next round out of the chamber.

    I can tell this cannon hits a LOT harder than the Surcouf cannon. I think the more refined 3d printing techniques are giving better layer adhesion.

    ---

    Next steps, I'm finally ready for an acetone vapor bath. This should keep the co2 from seeping out. Which should let me run well at lower tank pressure.

    After that, I'm ready to try ball bearings. Everything in the cannon is sized for 7/32", just like Deutschland expects. ;)

    Lastly, I need a full sized bottle and regulator!!
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2023
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  8. JustinScott

    JustinScott Well-Known Member

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    I took a break from all the frustrations of printing the hull; to print the superstructure!


    A4E496D9-8F79-4E0B-B234-9E7893E575B7.jpeg

    80457294-B463-4206-9AED-3FD94E30E5EB.jpeg
     
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  9. Commodore

    Commodore Well-Known Member

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    Looks nice!
     
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  10. JustinScott

    JustinScott Well-Known Member

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    thanks! Looking forward to seeing it all shot to hell! :)
     
  11. JustinScott

    JustinScott Well-Known Member

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    Update - first fitting of the bits & pieces.

    I’m still not happy with the print quality; but I’m happy with “most” of the fit. I do have to move the rotate servo bc the CO2 bottle is larger than expected.


    C226B0D1-B2A8-489F-87B7-A7291A422D31.jpeg CFBA9644-E54B-4CAC-845C-8690BBDC1475.jpeg 17B30E9F-984D-4B67-98DE-1841825E3F42.jpeg
     
  12. JustinScott

    JustinScott Well-Known Member

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    More photos…

    BBFCCE73-88A9-4DAE-A19F-D3628D1DFBFF.jpeg
     
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  13. Commodore

    Commodore Well-Known Member

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    You might want to rework your CO2 bottle mount so that the regulator is a bit higher. You really don't want to be sucking liquid CO2 into your lines.

    Otherwise, looking pretty good so far!
     
  14. Terry Keef

    Terry Keef Member

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    Love the printed superstructure. Much nicer than the old scratch built on the Admiral sheer.
     
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  15. JustinScott

    JustinScott Well-Known Member

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    Thank you!

    That’s what the mounting bracket underneath the neck will be for! Just need to design and print something that matches and elevates the bottle neck. ;)
     
  16. JustinScott

    JustinScott Well-Known Member

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    Thanks!
     
  17. darkapollo

    darkapollo Well-Known Member

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    Quick question. Where are you measuring the waterline from? On the Deutschland class, the waterline was not at the bulge.
    I ask because yours has a lot more 'meat' on the bottom than mine. I have less than 1/2" of solid area from the bottom of the hull to the start of the windows. I know BigGun has different build rules, but if you are measuring from the top of the bulge, you are about 3/8" too high for the typical 1" below waterline.
    upload_2023-2-21_12-57-56.png

    I actually just imported your sketch into my build, calibrated it to 3" between ribs and yes, you seem to be measuring from the bulge.
    upload_2023-2-21_13-44-34.png
     
  18. Commodore

    Commodore Well-Known Member

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    I can't speak directly to the waterline, but ... oh, wait, maybe I can. What I was going to say is that it will probably take an iteration or two to work all the issues out anyway. Things like waterlines and hard area boundaries can be fiddled with on version 2.0, etc.

    So, Swampy hull: 1.6" freeboard amidships
    Scratch wood hull: 1.5" freeboard amidships

    Make of that what you will.
     
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  19. JustinScott

    JustinScott Well-Known Member

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    I’ll take a look at it. I had forgotten the whole waterline rule in IRCWCC
     
  20. JustinScott

    JustinScott Well-Known Member

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    Progress on the rudder!


    3D9C7691-CBA6-4DE9-8A47-E6CBA895DD3A.jpeg
     
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