For the 380 motor shaft, you can put a 1/8” od brass tube around the shaft, either ca or bb weld it on, grind flat spot through both the brass and to the main motor shaft
My previous ships were fast gun Iowa and Tirpitz, so maybe the difference is the class ship. Or maybe I just messed up the gearbox using the tools of the day... ... and I do intend to print a second Deutchland focused on Fast Gun, so I can sink @Commodore .
Why are you printing in the back corner? I mean, I guess it doesnt matter that much. But I always center my prints. Generally the heater mats on the bed are strongest in the middle and fade out towards the outside edges. Some printers the heaters dont even run true edge to edge, they stop a few inches inboard of the edge of the bed leading to uneven heating sometimes.
I can visibly see the center is getting more wear/tear than the rest of the build plate. On the edges, I'm getting good adherence and the bottom layer it looks good once it comes off; but I know not to put the model the whole way to the edge.
Looks like the center area has some torn portions. I haven't had that happen in quite a while, but it has happened before and I had to replace the printing surface once or twice. On a bigger print bed like that, moving smaller prints around to reduce wear does make sense.
I use magnetic spring steel build plates, I have probably 8 plates between the two printers. And the plates are double sided. So I rotate them out as I print. That plus a properly calibrated Z offset for a good first layer and my parts generally stick very well and then I toss the plate in the fridge to pop the part free. Was just curious, wasn't sure if it was like an auto-selected slicer option or something that was setting the first model position to a back corner or somesuch.
Jealous! A magnetic plate will be my next upgrade. I’d love to hear about your cool down process? Once the print is done, I have GCODE programmed to go to 50C plate+Enclosure and hold. I then manual step down every 30 mins to 40C, 30C, then 20C, finally I pop the model off. This is working for me to not get any cracks; but I do wonder if I really need to do the step down under 50C? To answer you question, the slicer doesn’t do it auto. I just manually move them around.
Stuff expands and contracts at different rates. This is super apparent on some of the ceramic glass build plates out there that have a honeycomb looking texture. I let my parts cool down naturally in the heated build chamber until they're about ambient. If the part is still stuck tight to the build plate, I take the whole plate + part and put them in the garage fridge or freezer (whatever will fit it) and let it chill. That will almost 100% of the time pop the part free with no real scraping or bed damage.
Update - plastic gears do not work. I couldn't keep them attached to the shaft, the motor just simply spun in place. So I ordered metal gears from Amazon..
SEATRIALS was NOT a disaster! Results: It works! The acceleration is not good enough. The cannon rotation is working now to, although I only installed 1 cannon. Here’s a video: https://youtube.com/shorts/0G4p9NyX918?feature=share
New gears will be here tomorrow & will bring her to almost 1:1 gear ratio. If that doesn’t fix her, Brian Lamb thinks my old BC prop pitch isn’t high enough. I’ll probably return to 3d printed props.
Well if the direct drive 380s doesn't pan out, @Kevin P. s suggestion of direct drive 555s is very solid. They're a 550 motor wound to be lower rpm and higher torque. If you get the right one you can get around 5k rpm at 12v with max torque and no gearing. Whisper quiet drive too.
Its slow, yeah, but not severely so for 28 knots on the Big Gun speed chart. Going 1:1 or direct drive will probably get you the rest of the way up to speed. Are you using a toothed timing belt for turret rotation, or a o-ring/friction belt for turret rotation?
