The DD was on the water for about 5-minutes last year! I need new radio for her, the one i have is meant for RC cars!!! Nikki
I know Nikki I remember. Along with where you hid your phone hahaha. A radio is a very cheap thing to acquire. Hobbyking Orange tx is a DX6i clone they are cheap. Rec are super cheap.
Look at turnigy 6 channel at hobby king. Like $50 with rec. And more rec are like $12 each. I think this would be a good choice for you Nikki.
I've been using this lately, a competent and inexpensive controller. https://www.banggood.com/FlySky-FS-...Receiver-p-983537.html?p=8I091689205712017020 It and the Turnigy i6 and a few others are all rebadges of the same thing.
Nut and Nick, For the moment i'll work with the radio i have on hand! i'll make it work! if i had to get another readio it would be this: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/quanum-2-4ghz-3ch-pistol-grip-tx-rx-system.html?___store=en_us Nikki
Nikki. A pistol grip is the most limiting radio you can buy. They are specific to cars and boats that RACE. Even the rock crawler guys use twin stick transmitters. If you ever plan to have more than forward reverse left right and a pump that is always on you need at minimum a 6 channel computer radio. They are cheap and work.
Tyng Atlanta post battle report. In one word, SWEET! In more words, The Atlanta was built for my Grandson to play with and for me to try out some new stuff in design and battling style. I copied bits from my last two boats and combined them with this boat and added some new stuff. I copied the rudder mechanism, ESC, magnetic deck hold-downs, and foam superstructure from the Mogador. From the Barham, the 24v power, the 1-1/2" nylon props, and the RS-555PH direct drive no-dog-bones drive system. The new included the Lowes Kobalt 24v power tool batteries, custom 24v 1/2 unit pump, hot-glue deck seal, and the cannons built on a pair of Spartan manifold solenoid valves. Happy to say everything worked perfectly over the three day battle. She had two sinks but I'm blaming those on improper pump protocol of my nine year old grandson. Some specifics The Lowes Kobalt 24v 2AH batteries: Was PLEASANTLY surprised when I checked the built in battery power meters after the battle. After the first two sortie battle on Saturday, the pack was only down one bar (out of four). With a fresh battery for the second two sortie battle, the power draw was two bars. Admittedly two battles isn't much of a test, but a max power draw of only 50% after the more energetic of the two battles (with constant pumping) IMO validates the Lowes batteries as a perfectly fine option for 24v drive systems. I had no issues with water shorting them out. Charging at the hotel was a snap, plug in the Lowes charger and snap the battery in. I had all batteries charged up before dinner. 24v drive system: This is my second 24v boat using RS-555PH motors at 24v. These are different from the RS500/550 motors in that they are designed for higher voltages, lower RPM, and increased torque. They have five pole rotors where the 500/550's have a three pole rotor (the more poles, the lower the rpm and higher the torque per volt). Rpm of these motors at 12v run from 5000 to 10,000 depending on which manufacturer spec sheet your looking at (500/550 motors typically are running close to 20,000 rpm at 12v). I run the 555's direct drive to the 1-1/2" props. IMO this drive setup has excellent power and torque and both my 24v boats easily accelerate to speed in a boats length or less. These systems have so much power that the throttle endpoints need to be set significantly lower to make speed. The Atlanta had to be dialed back to 40% (the Barham is at 60%). Since were talking PWM (pulse width modulation) here, the motors are not seeing a reduction of 40% in voltage but in 40% of duty cycle. That is, the Atlanta's motors are working at full voltage and torque but only 40% of the time. I think this is one of the reasons that I'm seeing the excellent acceleration and power efficiencies. Another advantage of 24v is the reduced amp capacities required. Increase the voltage to 24v from 12, and you only need half the AH's for the same amount of work (6v would require four times the amps). With lower amps, you can use thinner wire, smaller connectors, and smaller ESC's. 24v pump: The Atlanta's pump is a modified NAPA windshield washer pump (pump thread here). The pump is setup on my trademark two speed pumping system first used in my Mogador. The pump generally worked very well and could pump out the hull from near sink to on-waterline in five seconds or so. There were some minor priming issues if left on. The pump would sometimes have trouble re-priming once water flow was lost. Cycling the pump off and then back on would get water moving again. Hot glue deck seal: The Hot Glue Deck Seal (HGDS) was an expedient I came up with to fill in any gaps between the fiberglass deck and subdeck. Turns out it worked very well. The Atlanta has such a low freeboard that a good deck seal is a must, but when a hurricane hits? Saturday afternoon, the winds started kicking up at Greenbrier. We figured the models were seeing 50' scale waves during the last sortie. Waves that were sending other boats to the bottom, the Atlanta and it's HGDS shrugged off with ease. Quasi side-mount cannons: The Atlanta's cannons where placed in the two wing turret locations facing forward and 15 degrees out. IMO, the jury is still out on this setup. I only really had one sortie with the boat and I'm still formulating strategy. Suffice it to say, I'd be surprised if I or my rookie grandson landed any hits over the weekend. The Atlanta was built to be a DD hunter and convoy combatant. Maybe she will shine when she actually see's DD's or a convoy battle? The big yellow rudder: I took advantage of the new bigger rudder rule and threw in some fishtail to boot. I know not everybody likes the fishtail, but who am I to go against the flow? No cruiser is going to turn on a dime, but this one comes pretty close if you know what your doing. Using this boats decent accel and deccel, the secret to a quick turn from speed was to go to full stop and then throw the rudder and throttle to full bore too whatever direction you wanted to go. The model would swing around in four feet or so and then you would punch it. Fun factor: 10 out of 10. The boats a blast to drive (especially at 100% throttle) ...
If I have time, I will try to fix up my Z-boat for the next battle with the SAS. It's a Big Gun torpedo-boat with a similar armament, so it would be interesting to compare notes and tactics. Perhaps even shoot up a few empty milk containers for practice.
Just got a chance to go through this thread completely. Lots of ideas - well documented. very precisely done - excellent work. i will look to include some of these techniques in the near future. She handled well at Regionals. Bravo, sir! Once my battleship is done, I hope to refit a small cruiser I have and build a couple very small ones.
