Project Atlanta - Fastgun CL

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by SteveT44, Oct 27, 2017.

  1. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    Not much in today's installment. I flipped the hull over and finished up with the strut bonding. Also fabricated and installed the rudder servo torque plate.

    upload_2017-11-10_7-37-41.png


    The excess strut material is trimmed off.

    upload_2017-11-10_7-37-57.png


    This is the rudder servo torque plate. In this design, the rudder servo is not hard mounted to anything. It just "floats" on the rudder shaft. The torque plate keeps the servo from spinning on the shaft.

    upload_2017-11-10_7-38-23.png


    I temporally spring load the rudder so the shaft stays in alignment while I bond the torque plate in place.

    upload_2017-11-10_7-38-42.png


    I think I might buy some stock in JB Weld!

    upload_2017-11-10_7-39-1.png


    Next steps will be water channeling and subdeck...
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2017
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  2. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    After a weekend of home improvement projects, I'm back to the Atlanta. After some testing of the drive train, I found I was getting a wicked shaft vibration at full rpm. I figured maybe I made the stuffing tubes to long which was placing the top bearing away from the center point of the shaft (and leaving an overly long section of unsupported shaft in the stuffing tube). I decided to shorten them to move the bearing closer to the center run of the shaft. This required a bit of surgery.


    To get better access to the stuffing tubes, I needed to cut the hull windows out from each side of the area (wasn't planning on doing this this early in the build). This required marking the frame locations. Here I'm using a template a made up on the PC to precisely mark the locations of the ten 3/8" frames.

    upload_2017-11-14_9-56-58.png


    On the first window I wanted to try this tile saw to see how it would go. I had good control of the cut but it was a pain in the elbow!

    upload_2017-11-14_9-57-29.png


    For the second window, I pulled out the big guns, an oscillating trim saw. Well I have to say, all hull cutting from this point on will be using the oscillating saw. Sixty seconds to rough cut the window compared to ten minutes using the hand saw. Using the 3/4" blade, I was able to make a series of fairly precise plunge cuts to get the window out. Have to be careful though, very easy to cut beyond your line.

    upload_2017-11-14_9-58-47.png

    upload_2017-11-14_10-4-42.png


    Good access now...

    upload_2017-11-14_10-8-6.png


    ... but it turns out I didn't need to cut the windows because I ended up using the oscillating saw from the top to trim the stuffing tubes. Oh well.

    upload_2017-11-14_10-9-56.png


    I couldn't reuse the previous mounting method for the re-positioned bearings so I turned them down to 3/16" so they will slip fit into the stuffing tube.

    upload_2017-11-14_10-11-46.png


    The stuffing tubes had to be reamed a bit to 3/16".

    upload_2017-11-14_10-14-16.png


    New setup. Spins much better now! :D

    upload_2017-11-14_10-15-31.png


    Next step, water channeling! :(
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2017
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  3. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    Water channeling starts to go in. I'll be using yoga block foam for the filler. The hull was traced onto some paper to give me a rough template for cutting the foam.

    upload_2017-11-15_7-42-9.png


    Going upscale on this build. Black marble!

    upload_2017-11-15_7-42-54.png


    Test fitting

    upload_2017-11-15_7-43-38.png


    Yep, this foam sands quite nicely using a course drywall sanding sheet.

    upload_2017-11-15_7-44-37.png


    Getting glued in with E6000

    upload_2017-11-15_7-45-13.png


    Till next time...
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2017
  4. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    That, or did you want long, exposed shafts to match your Barham? ;)
     
  5. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    "Long, exposed shafts"? Not an issue until if/when a bb ever bends one. Besides, I used to run the forward engine room of a Spruance class destroyer so I'm used to long prop shafts!
     
  6. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    Just messin' with you. ;)
     
  7. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    Water channeling progress...

    upload_2017-11-17_7-32-38.png

    upload_2017-11-17_7-32-51.png

    ...
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2017
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  8. NASAAN101

    NASAAN101 Well-Known Member

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    Steve.
    She looks great. Cant wait to she how she dose witth a little British Dido class light cruiser :p
    Nikki
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2017
  9. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    Subdeck starts to go in. These are being bonded in with E6000 and a screw on each end. They will be sanded flush with the deck edge and will be the lower component of what I hope will be a quite innovative deck seal system.

    upload_2017-11-20_9-41-40.png


    The 1/4" x 7/16" strips were cut out of this composite lumber trim board I had left over from a home improvement project. When I was working with this stuff earlier, I noticed how easy it bends when cut in strips. It seems fairly robust, impact resistant, and holds screws pretty well. Of course, it's 100% waterproof.

    upload_2017-11-20_9-42-52.png

    ...
     
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  10. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    Can't wait to see your Dido on the water! :)
     
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  11. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    Today's installment...


    A Surform file makes quick work of leveling the subdeck strips to the hull.

    upload_2017-11-21_9-37-14.png



    Finished up with the rudder mechanism. The top plate is fabricated and fitted.

    upload_2017-11-21_9-38-22.png


    This spring keeps pressure on the rudder gear and hull bushing joint to keep water out.

    upload_2017-11-21_9-39-25.png


    Starting to fabricate the one piece removable deck. I decided to temporally remove the bow scale feature to make deck fitment easier. This will be replaced after the deck is on.

    upload_2017-11-21_9-40-59.png

    upload_2017-11-21_9-41-12.png


    I didn't have a piece of 1/16" fiberglass sheet long enough for the deck so I'm making one.

    upload_2017-11-21_9-42-11.png


    ...
     
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  12. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    The deck is rough cut to shape.

    upload_2017-11-22_7-51-6.png


    I didn't want to ruin a band saw blade so I used a sheet metal nibbler. Worked really well on this thin fiberglass sheet (my forearm got a workout). FYI, I tried this tool for cutting hull windows but no joy with the thicker glass in the BC hull.

    upload_2017-11-22_7-52-54.png


    Fabricating a magnetic hold down system. I found out that PVC cement works on this composite lumber.

    upload_2017-11-22_7-54-20.png

    upload_2017-11-22_7-54-30.png

    upload_2017-11-22_7-58-41.png

    ...
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2017
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  13. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    Some more work done on the Atlanta. Installed deck stiffeners and finished up with the magnetic deck hold-downs.

    To keep space open underneath, I installed a majority of the deck stiffener on the top side. This all gets covered up with superstructure.

    upload_2017-12-4_6-36-48.png

    upload_2017-12-4_6-37-1.png


    Magnets are glued on the underside of these cross braces and they match up with the corresponding magnets glued to the underside deck.

    upload_2017-12-4_6-37-17.png


    Pins on each end do a great job of keeping the deck where it needs to be.

    upload_2017-12-4_6-37-48.png


    I'm adding these knees to the cross braces to add some rigidity to the subdeck once the hull windows are cut out.

    upload_2017-12-4_6-37-57.png

    ...
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2017
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  14. warspiteIRC

    warspiteIRC RIP

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    Steve, you do fine work!
     
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  15. djranier

    djranier Well-Known Member

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    Yes he does, what a beautiful Allied target it will be. ;)
     
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  16. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    It'll be fun watching the Axis fleet trying to chase down this 22 second speed demon.
     
  17. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Very nice Steve, I wish I had your build quality skills.

    What's this with a stringer on a light cruiser? Is that where the 'armor' went from 3/4" to 1/2" to save weight?
     
  18. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Kevin. Your building skills are nothing to laugh at. You definitely have me beat in the mass production aspect!

    Stringer? You mean this area?

    upload_2017-12-4_18-16-8.png
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2017
  19. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    Just did a test weigh. Coming in at 7.1 pounds. Leaves two pounds for the guns, superstructure, and some wiring. Considering I'll probably lose a half pound once the windows are cut, should be good weight wise.

    upload_2017-12-4_18-19-13.png
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2017
  20. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Ah, I mistook your waterline mark for a stem to stern stringer