Built the new endcap for the water tight cylinder (WTC). Start with a 3 inch block of plastic. Cut the length on the bandsaw. Then turn it on the lathe to get it to fit inside the lexan tube. Had to grind a tool blank to get the profile shape of the gasket, have to take a lot of measurements to get it right or the gasket will not seat. Removed some of the interior so that I could save room. This is the completed WTC. 4 firing boards and a big relay for the pump, powering the receiver with a Castle BEC. My issue is that the diameter is 3 inches, just too big for the way this boat was designed. But, this is my backup as I try to make a new 2 inch WTC. I would like to use the relay David R found (and thanks David on the instructions), the firing boards from Johnny, and my new receiver.
Wiring is done for the solenoids and test switches, you can just see the switches underneath the rightmost barrel. All the wiring is in a tube to keep it clean looking. Magazines are done, just need to brace them and adjust the angle so the feed is good. Still need to add tubing. Hardest part was getting the uptube and interrupters to fit with the correct angle. The benefit of the clamshell deck, I only need to remove one side to access the magazines or test switches, and as the guns are part of the boat and not deck, my range will stay dialed in. Magnets hold down the deck.
Anyone have a source for a good transmitter battery for a spektrum DX6, I would like to increase my run time.
I just purchased 2, 2500 mah from this place, and they have free shipping. They are 24.95, they also have a 2700 mah, but those are $43.50 http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/showitem.asp?ItemID=11522.47
I bought 4 of these last year for $7 bucks and are still using them. They were sold as 2000mah, marked as 2300mah, but charged at 1800mah.. who cares!!! I got 4 of them for $25 and I use 1 or 2 a day. They charge up in about 20 minutes or so. Just a thought. If you change the voltage regulator on the radio they will last even longer! I plan to do that next. http://www.all-battery.com/96v2000mahsquarefutabant8s600btransmiterbatterypack11417.aspx
Limited time this week, so not a lot has been done. Used 1/8th angle for the servo mount, very solid and no movement possible. Mount is epoxied into place. Due to time, the rotates will not be ready for the brew. So I am going with the original sidemount guns, just need to install them. I keep reading about the advantages and disadvantages of the barrel length, so if I cut them will I have decreased performance? I know I will be shooting through an inch or two of water.
Well if they hang over too much, and are rigid mounted, ask Chris K what happens, lol. He may have a picture of it. Looked like one of those late WW2 german assault rifles, that could shoot around corners.
Something I noticed at the end of last year with the Erin's haymaker (it stuck out a 1/2") is that when running or backing into another ship for a shot, sometimes the barrel would ride up on top of the other ship's deck ... and we all know that decks don't count towards points. The Erin's haymaker is trimmed back flush with the deck edge this year. No more deck shots!
Why I love the Iron Duke, with it's stern casemate, the barrel is almost cut flush with the side of the ship, yet is almost 3/4 inch below the deck. Get flush alongside with another boat, watch it's BB bounce off my deck, or superstructure, the rear super made out of 3/4 inch thick ply is starting to come apart from all the hits it has taken, and watch my BB's seldom miss since its hitting the other boats waterline or below.
I had overhang and Tyler and Kevin Bray would use my barrels to push, move, or hold me in place. So I cut them flush with the deck. I think that is much better and I dont think its going to have any real effect on the ability to hit if you have a good tweak on the gun. I say cut 'um
You want to see what happens with overhang go to one of my vids of Bismarck at Nats. The Go PRO camera captured the overhangs being moved, rammed, tanlged and hung up. Camera captured exactly what the guys have described.
I believe I wired the relay correctly, but wanted to post a pic and get confirmation before I hook up the pump. Top wire is the positive, jumper connected to the negative, and the diode is attached. The red wire on the right side going down is for the board.
Nope I just looked over what I typed, and the diode needs to go across the windings, not the switch, sorry about that. Move the diode from 87 to 85, with the band facing the board. Should be 85. You can move the other end from 30 to 86, but since they are shorted together, it does not matter either way.
Thanks Dave! I moved the diode and just left the one end as-is. Underneath the red wires you can just make out the pump holder, this slides over a pole and is help in place by a set screw. The relay is sitting on an extension of this hold down, makes it easy to take the whole unit out for maintenance.
Not yet, charged the first set of batteries yesterday and the second set today. Still have to make the WTC tonight, but then I am good to test. Plan is to take her to the water on Wednesday or Thursday for shakedown cruise. Did a lot of other work this weekend, but no picutures yet, and you know what they say "No pictures or it didn't happen"
