Oh! No problem then. The three female connectors need to be soldered to the three motor wires on the ESC. Your favorite connector type can be used on the battery wires.
Lou, I've standardized my ESC-to-motor connectors as the 4mm banana plugs (what's on yours right now). You can order gold-plated spares from Hobbyking for like $3 for a pack of 10 pairs. I need all the ones I have left for KGV, or I'd mail you a few. I am placing an order today, if you want some I'll order an extra bag.
Minor setback, when trying to stuff 6 wires into a 3/8 pipe, there is only one answer- not going to work! So, I used 1/2 pipe and cut some uptubes and soldered it together. Also had to replace the pipe going to the motors, issue is I cannot use connectors as there is just not the clearance available. To try and snake 5 wires on one side (from one ESC) was not going to be easy, so 1/4 tubing was used, one for each lead. These will all join together near the step next to the motors. The firing switches still need to be placed, in this picture they are just sitting near the bottom not attached to anything. Good news is now I can run all the wiring and it makes sense at this point. As the guys in region 3 will tell you, I usually have "issues" with my batteries that can usually be found in the wiring. In this build I am going with the "noodle" wiring from deans, 12 gauge for most applications.
Got the new switches and diode, can anyone tell me if they will work? The diode says: 50 v -max, 3 A, axial lead (R-50 PRV) Bad timing on my part Clark with your offer on the connectors, I would have said "yes" Can you send me the part number and I will put in an order this week. Thanks!
Update on rotates. In this picture you can see all the bearings in the chase, the SS screws outside the turret are holding the ring to the deck. Making the turret base, once again the hardest part was cutting the ring without deforming the shape. The back bend was accomplished by using a break and lots of pressure, the metal really didn't want to cooperate and make a clean line. The holes correspond to the screws that are used to hold down the top plate, so once assembled this plate and the top plate are essentially the same.
Sure thing, we're super busy at work this morning but I'll get it at lunch or tonite. I did order a crapton of them, though, if you want a bag. If not, I know I'll go thru them
Finally got to the Erin this weekend and pulled the drive system out for a photo. The three blue wires go to the motor. It doesn't matter which color the motor wires are. If the motor is running backwards, just swap two of the blue wires to the motor wires to reverse the direction. In this photo, I left one of the motor wires unplugged to show the bullet connectors. By the way, I do not leave the bullet connectors bared like this ... they get taped or heat shrink around them. Hope this helps.
Thanks Mike! Tubes for the firing buttons are installed, the buttons will go on top of the three uptubes. Setting the location for the turret ring and cross brace.
Here is another shot, you can see the beginning of the bottom ring. These will be joined together with threaded rod.
Worked on the stern gun holder, threaded rods with copper tubing. Another view This is the reason for making the gun part of the hull and not the deck, clamshell deck design. My hope is it will make removal of the deck easier while on the water (gun leak, firing button access, rudder issues,etc...) Still a lot of work to do in order for it to work, the deck piece in the picture is from the old boat. The deck will slide into a shallow groove in the turret base and be attached to the side rails with magnets. Repaired the hole in the bottom from placing the tubes and reinforced the tubes with West System epoxy.
Hey, lil Cindy LOU Who... Link to the 4mm connectors... http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=67 Love, The Grinchboat
Rotate mounted on the old deck And then there were two! More later on mounting the gun you see in B turret. You can just make out the top of the air piston.
Yeah, they also have replacement Futaba servo connectors with gold-plated connectors to solder the wire to... I ordered some of those and some servo wire, and a few odds and ends for my projects. Also ordered a mess of the 4mm connectors (including one for Mike if he's reading this).