That thing is disgustingly small. Methinks the only reliable way to sink one would be to run it over. I am impressed and I want one.
Next hull I do will be a plug made from doorskin and foam so I can make a mold and lay up the hull in glass. Been meaning to do it for some time however without a shop space I have been at a standstill till the weather gets warmer and dryer. I want to do a 1/96th Narvic destroyer. Aka z boat. But after owning the 1/96th Mogador and having to refit it extensively to get it to work good enough, I know I want a glass hull for the z boat. Lol.
I hope so. The Golo is incredibly hard to sink. Coincidentally, the Golo was run over once when it was being driven by a novice captain and it ran in front of a HMS Courageous.
Yep, deck lines are available. The decks for two of the Divers took 15 minutes to cut - of which 12 minutes were just making the deck lines.
After cutting some corrected replacement parts, I finished assembly of the hull. Then I installed the rudder gear system to check it out. The rudder gears fit well and there is no interference with the sub-deck.
The weather turned nice again today and I was able to do some painting. I finished the graphics for the Tugster and the paint on the bottom. I also added new bumpers. So the Tugster cosmetic refurbishment is basically done. Next are the functional improvements.
This is the new Tugster capability that I'm most excited about. It is a recovery device to retrieve shot off bits. I've been working on this for months, now I just need to wire it up to be finished. Stowed position. A little Dad pun. Deployed position The scoop is motivated by an electric motor driven through a 1464:1 gear. There are two micro switches to stop the motor from over driving the end points. With the micro switches and a couple of diodes, I only need a small reversible ESC to control the position. I'll have it on a three-way switch on the transmitter. In the middle position, the motor will be off. With the high gear ratio it will basically hold its position anywhere the motor is turned off. The down switch will drive it to the deployed position, automatically shutting off the motor when it hits the limit switch. The up switch will move it to the stowed position. The two cams on the drive shaft are adjustable, allowing me to fine tune where it triggers the switch and stops.
Very nice, there should be one at every pond for every battle. This way environmentalists can't say we are endangering any water fowl with the blown off bits. Well done.
I like the idea of the face cams to actuate the limit switches. That makes it very compact. Thanks for sharing : )
It's one of those times when necessity is the mother of invention. I started with normal cams and realized my switches wouldn't fit under the drive shaft. I first investigated buying smaller switches and even had some in my cart that I think would have worked. But I hit on the side cams and through 3-4 iterations made them work.
I think that was the 96 Mogador. But yes, I have extended the front bumper around the front edges to hopefully prevent a similar incident.
I got some work done on the USS Diver. I rough sanded the bottom - 80 grit on a 4 1/2" angle grinder- rough but fast. Then I puttied it up to fill all the holes. There is only one open bay on this boat, so I put some blue tape on the inside and then added the filler to create the bottom of the hull. At the same time, I installed the stuffing tubes and let the filler glue them in place and seal them at the same time. The filler is made from West Systems epoxy and their 410 Microlite filler. I like this filler because it is basically cures to the same hardness as the plywood. This makes it easy to sand a very smooth hull. Hull final sanded. This is the easiest hull bottom I've ever done. Of course it's also the smallest hull I've done.
