Not trolling, the CD stated that he would fail any modification to the high pressure side. We are good as long as you can read the numbers on the tank. So, I will use metal cast paint (name of paint) to get a nice anodized finish. This will not impact the performance of the tank, and bring a nice color to the interior. Why you might ask? I can build a boat, and I can build a motorcycle (I have an M109R), I just don't like the "functional look" of most interiors of ships. Unlike Henry Ford statement "you can have any color, as long as it is black" I want the inside to look custom. Still lots of work to do in order to get it there, I will be updating this thread throughout the year as I try new processes. And yes, one day it just might wind up on the shelf cause it is so darn pretty Do what you like, like what you do.
Lou is the prettiest man in the hobby*, he wants his boats to be pretty too *Ty might argue on this point
Maybe everyone should just ask their questions and quit ass uming what others are doing. Yes Debbie downer it's co2 dangerous got it. Who cares it's his build so if he shows up to an event I am sure he will be well prepared. as long as the DOT info is easy to read (it should be it is stamped), and the valve stem isn't painted you should be OK. These things get painted all the time in paintball.
Swiss, I'd say that Debbie's opinion matters to Lou, as Debbie is the guy who is doing safety checks at Nats this year. If he says that the DOT stuff has to be readable, then it needs to be readable. More to the point, he was doing Lou a favor by letting Lou know (before the bottles got coated with vinyl) that it would be an issue, saving Lou the time and trouble. I agree that a coat of spray paint is no big deal since the numbers are stamped. Hell, I spray paint the bottom 2" of my bottles OD green so I can ID them in the cooler.
I post my build so that I run into no issues before a battle. When you factor in the cost to go to an event (gas/plane/room/meals/bribs to CD) I want to make sure I can play. I also hope that others can learn from the build and maybe make something a little better. This is a small but great forum, no negativity is needed. Carl came down on the issue with a heavy hand as a battler first (Watch what you do to the high end pressure) and then as the CD for the Brew and NATS this year (we can all be thankful that he will be a hard ass and make sure no unsafe ships hit the water. All that being said, I would still like to understand how wrapping it in vinyl will decrease effeciency of the tank (I am painting mine, but I would like to understand). I did use my google-foo and found where they have covers you put around the tank to protect from dings and scrapes, I would think those affect the tanks more than vinyl. Thoughts?
Phase changes and temps A warm tank will convert the liquid to gas faster. The vinyl acts as a thermal barrier to the tank slowing its ability to draw warmth from the surrounding air.
Lou I don't think there is enough bling on that boat. I want the following: Chromed pump outlets Bottles covered with gold leaf, it will allow you to read the numbers and as it is metal will transfer the heat Solid gold secondaries Chromed barrels platinum bb's, .177 of course and rudders made of rhodium Thanks J
Continuing on with attaching the superstructure to the boat. I drilled out three pockets so that magnets could be inserted. If I just used glue, they would eventually fall out. I cut out fiberglass board and glued to the bottom, on the next build I will take into account the extra height and adjust the plugs to account for it. I also added a post (used a SS screw) to help with placing the superstructure as well as helping with hits that could push it over the side (poorly aimed duals). And attached to the hull, magnets are strong and the post stops any horizontal movement.
Added magnets to the base, placed the magnets on spacers to get them near the top. The idea is to encapsulate them so they don't rip out. Using the same termite material. \ Filled, without coloring
I had to cut the aircraft track into pieces to make it work, will look ok from 5+ feet away. You can also see that the aft mast and superstructure has been added. I am using the two forward pieces of aircraft track to help position the middle superstructure. The AA guns are glued, I was concerned that the starboard side would break or cause it to bind. Seems not to be an issue. Will be testing how well the molded guns work versus the brass barrels (yet to be installed).
Time to make dummy barrels. Question to the group, what looks "better": 1. Accurate gun barrels (length and shape), 2. Make them look like the BB barrels (length the same)3. Mixture (A turret with accurate barrels, B and C with longer barrels)?
I'm guessing you're talking about main gun dummies. Obviously your secondaries will look better scale than .177 diameter My personal preference for main-gun dummies has always been thick-wall brass tubing the same size as the bb guns. Of course, that translates to 25" guns in 1/144 scale so..... I'd say go with what you're happy with.
