I'll get with Doug and Johnny on what pics to post. Probably going to run any advice I get by people I saw battling with working boats. Seen some wild and contradicting opinions on here. Virtual/Real feedback it seems.
Any gun pointed over the stern is generally referred to as a "Stern Gun". "Haymaker" is a steeply angled sidemount for getting below-waterline hits at close range ("making hay").
Had to move the batteries closer to the bow so that the bottles could be moved to help the stern weight issue. In this picture you can see the outline of the old battery placement. Behind that is the bottle holders which were moved as well. Had to cut out some rib material, but not much. They fit and are going no where (tight fit). Made a new battery brace, screwed to the hull so that nothing will break over time.
Marking the actual waterline after float testing. You can make one, but I picked up this waterline marker on sale and it has done well over the years. Using frog tape for a clean line, time to paint the red
Time to make the walrus. First I cut out the outlines from the plans Made the top and bottom template of wings, these will both be doubled so that I can sand to shape. Went ahead and cut out the stabilizer as well. This will be cast in a few parts, so some assembly required.
Not everyone with a running boat gives good advice. Some people seem to float only by the grace of Triton himself.
There is a lot of advice out there. Some of it will never apply as the big gun guys do things totally different than what you are doing. There are guys on here that are good at one part of building, but not other parts. Now that you've seen a battle and ships you get to pick what you think is best and do it. Copy guys who have good stuff that does not break down. Also do things like other guys you will be playing with. If most people you battle with use Deans connectors, use them yourself. If they run the white Traxxas drive gears, use those. Then if you have a breakdown someone will have a spare and can help you out. Personally I am a wiring snob and hate looking at the wiring some people use. Everyone in my area wires things the same way, mostly because I have done at least their first ship's wiring. It works and is easy to trouble shoot, lots of color codes wires. I like my stuff in a water tight box. In your area Jeff makes great guns. Johnny & Jeff like to waterproof their electrical stuff and not use a water tight box. It works for a lot of guys, but gives me stress. The best thing that ever happened to me was at my 2nd NATS. I had 3-4 good builders go over my ship and I made a long list of things to fix. I basicly redid everything I had made. Except for the superstructure... I was not put off that I did it wrong, I though it was better their way and followed their advice. Even then I only got most of it right. The next year I reworked more stuff and by my 4th NATS had a pretty good ship.
Time to make a walrus, wings and a few other superstructure pieces Fuselage, wings, canopy, engine, prop, rudder, stabilizer, pontoon floats, canopy. Will still have to be assembled, one with wings folded and the other extended.
Ok, this was a test run to see how close I could get it. Not happy overall, but it did somewhat go together for stand-off scale. So this will be version 1.0. Issues: 1. Strakes on wings are just too large, less will be more (this simulates fabric covered wings) 2. Engine nacel needs to be longer, need to make a strut brace. 3. Prop is too big (will reshape) 4. Bottom hull needs to be more like a pontoon (maybe graft on plastic pontoon to get the shape) 5. Floats on wings just don't look great. (use the floats from a zero float plane as a starting point) 6. I forgot to install the engine, this would help push the prop farther from the wing *******Google masters, please help me find links to purchase 1/144th British plane markings, I need to get a bunch Remember, good enough from 5 feet away (for now)
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