I will remove the planes prior to battle, can't really see them in the middle of battle anyways. But you can seal the decals with clear coat. You can even coat with thin super glue, just don't use kicker
I believe on plastic models that there is clear cote you put on decals to keep them from coming off. Clear acrylic would probably work very well.
There are two very useful proucts for applying decals: Micro-Sol and Micro-Set. I forget which is applied first but it's the bottle with blue labels. Put a drop on the surface where the decal is to go, apply the decal and let it sit for a few minites. This softens the decal. Then press with a damp piece of paper towel and it will comform to any surface irregularlities. (Really good for applying decals to rounded 40K space marine shoulder pads. For a very rounded surface like that you may have to repeat the process to get the decal flat.) After that's dried apply the solution from the bottle with red labels. This softens the decal further and it then hardens in position. You cannot touch or attempt to move the decals after that solutuion is applied because it may break up. After that has dried spray with a clear laquer and then dullcoat if desired.
sol to soften set to solidify. stuff is wonderful even on flat surfaces and clear laquer applied right is completely waterproof.
5/16" endmill and when I do them I go with 5/16" deep. When drilling with a endmill make sure everything is bolted down and tight, because it tends to grab the work.
When placing the haymaker, do you try to pick an angle that will let you use the full length of the barrel? Or do you try to go 90 degrees to the center line of the hull?
More on the new guns. Installed the bow sidemount, used a piece of wood as a 20 degree angle template Soldered the brass tab to the elbow, now easy to take on and off. Still need to add a magazine holder. The magazines are straight and easy to refill in the middle of the boat. Stern gun magazines are easier to refill as well, will get armor for protection as well as the superstructure that covers them. Big step back, but the home made guns just were not cutting it in terms of reliability. I will say I do like the new Strike guns and the milling of the "tee" with the resin rivet.
One step forward, two steps back. Had to cut the deck so I can access the bottle valves. Had to scrap the magazine holder...
Float tank day! She is now on an even keel. After putting her in the water at the brew and almost sinking by the stern, this is a relief.
In the bow mount, my barrel is overhanging. Should I keep the length and put a screw on either side of the barrel at the deck edge (to stop it from ripping off). Or should I cut the length to flush to the deck edge (am I losing velocity by doing that?). My understanding is this gun will need to shoot through 1-2 inches of water, so I want all the power I can get (could be wrong, I also believe in mermaids).
