The swarm will be coming very close to that beautiful boat, and then all those beautiful bits fling in the air and then going down in the milky depths.
Nick, you're right about the details. I used to build combat models with lots of details - eventually they all got shot off. In the album for monitor HMS Terror the early photos show lots of details on the decks, like this QE model. Photos of Terror after several years of heavy use show nearly plain decks: bollards, cleats, anchor capstans, davits, deck hatches, ventilators, bow breakwater details, hawser reels, winches - most were blown overboard or destroyed, and I'd stopped replacing all but the sturdiest items. Even HMS Warspite lost most of its deck details after 5 years of combat, though it was sunk only a couple of times and rarely settled at all in competition (largely due to the superb Camurati bilge pump). My latest models have minimal deck details: usually only solid brass anchor capstans and a breakwater made from 3/32" brass soldered to posts that insert through the deck.
Please read the build thread, you will see everything is cast from molds. Easily replaceable and minimal cost once the molds are created. If the other team is blowing of the "pretty bits", that means their guns are poorly trained and the wasted shots are helping the allied team.
This is one of the reasons I really wanted to get into 3d printing. So I can print plate after plate of details
Looking at the print times is really weird to me, hours spent hoping that the print doesn't derail. It would be good to make a master in 3D and use that to create a mold. One day I will get a printer, until then I will continue to lurk and learn what I can.
In a couple of days we will see, I personally think that the only hope for the Allied fleet is the QE's. So,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, expect plenty of attention.
Much like a weight challenged individual at a bar near closing time, I humbly accept your offer to dance.
Its pretty fun, in a "maybe it'll work, maybe it wont" kind of way. As I've learnt more and refined my process more I've gotten more consistent successes. It is like a lot of things, if you ignore the basic items you'll end up with bigger problems. ie: If you have drafts or a cool room and you try to print large ABS things, you'll likely end up with layer delamination issues. If your strategy involves 'hit print and hope for the best' - it probably won't work out very often.
Added magnets to the tee, used JB weld to hold it on. Wrapping around the tee will hopefully keep it from breaking off. Magnets are middle of the road, really just enough to pull the BB into the breech. Like Rick says "never gonna give you up"
WTC (water tight cylinder) is complete and wired up. Wiring is routed using simple open hooks, easy to remove wiring if needed Stern view, nice and tidy but easy to trouble shoot and maintain.
I like my bow sidemounts to have enough range to hit but stay out of haymaker range. Since haymakers are a 3" range put it so you hit the water at 6" or so. Then battle with that distance in mind. In my NC I had a close range in B to start, but moved the range out after a year.
Another reason BBs don't go where they're supposed to is wind and waves. When NABS was active we had to deal with the often bad maritime Canadian weather and frequently battled in less than ideal conditions, with models pitching, yawing and rolling. That didn't help accuracy but made for some exciting battling conditions. (I've been reading the thread from the beginning.)
