lol funny, I'm throwing on 1 1/4 props on Texas now, same as you. I checked the measurements two nights ago and decided to upgrade from 1" props to try and improve acceleration. The acceleration can suck with smaller props, but from what I have experienced in my whopping *five* battles so far is maneuver is more important. That, and there's gotta be a reason that Kevin puts so much effort into it. If I could scoot my rudder post back a half inch, and chopped the prop shafts another quarter inch, it'd be perfect. But I'd have to literally reach in and carve into the last rib/hard area to make the clearance for the rudder gear. it'll be a great project for future me to do after I get more experience in boat building.
Yes the stern gets tight. I had to do away with my linkage set up from servo to rudder. I’m working on a belt drive that fits snugly in the stern. I will post pic soon of my modifications
Cool, dude! The belt is much smaller than my chain drive, for sure. @Beaver runs belts so if you need a hand, pester him about them.
Will do he has help me out before. When I was building my gun he sent some of his custom made springs they worked well
Both pump outlets are in 1 full unit and 1/2 unit. Rudder chain drive installed .1227 scale. Moved the rudder aft and moved the pivot point on the rudder as kevin suggested. Also installed prop shaft supports. Just need to touch up on some paint. I did some test runs in my pond she’s turns well I think she’s ready for the Brouhaha
With the dual pump outlets are you running 2 pumps or would like the option to switch between a full and 1/2 unit to get a 4th gun into play?
The Doria is a 4.5 unit ship. As a rookie I will start off with both pumps and 3 full unit guns. After I get my feet wet. I have options to play with I could drop the 1/2 unit pump and add the 1/2 unit gun stern gun
Boat looks good, here are some thoughts about two pumps for a new boat. I'm sharing for completeness, not to imply that you have overlooked anything Most new-person sinks are from component failures vice inadequate pump capacity. Causes typically include poor wiring/control circuitry, no pump screen, poor outlet design, general loss of control, poor water channeling. Making it to the point of sinking from legit battle damage with full bore pump would be beyond performance of most new people. Generally new people are treated kindly until competence/enjoyment is demonstrated Need to be sure there is enough battery juice to support the loads, both in a discharge rating and capacity rating. Must have batteries to support full day of battle, lithiums can be charged from car battery but would still need enough for two sorties. Pumps can pull 20-30A at our voltages. Consequence of over discharge is non-trivial Two pumps should be spaced out to prevent them from starving each other. A battler with far more experience than I mentioned 3-4" I believe. I have not done any testing in support, but it makes sense Pump outlets need to be measurable from outside of the ship. Not exactly sure where the outlets are in your hose path, but per rules there needs to be a clear path from outside of ship through diameter of flow restrictor testing pump in boat on the pond should be accomplished, simulate battle conditions as close as possible to minimize 'surprises' at actual events. Fill boat to point of sinking, let it pump out, fill boat a good way and try driving around without pump for a bit to see how it handles with water. Can even poke some holes in boat if you are really extreme, generally only when you have bad balsa that needs replacement
lol #1 is basically my 2018 season in a nutshell. Did you use that pump spacing rule of thumb in your Gin Palace?
Excellent list kevin. As for item 4. I do have the 1/2 and 1 unit restrictions installed. No you can not mesure them from the outside of the ship. So she is in clear violation. I do believe the pump restrictor should be checked and easily accessible before battle. But trying to design them to be check from outside the ship especially with the glugglug is a pain.
Yes in Agincourt pumps are about 4 inches can to can, more based on beam than intentional distance. She still needs some tweaks to see the benefit of the second pump And making a rule-compliant glug-glug is more difficult than putting the restrictor further in the hull. If you want to change the rule attend a battle and write a rule proposal, some would probably be in support. I personally like the rule because it eliminates some potentially shady practices Boat looks good though, and you have plenty of time to test it out before the first battle. Time spent at the workbench over the offseason is probably the largest driver to having successful experiences at battles
Thanks, I'll check out the build thread. I'm in the middle of trying to figure out how wide to space my keel on the Idaho in the Pump area
Hey, that servo chainring, did you get that off of servo city? that looks a lot more slick than the one I have.
That’s the sprocket design for the smaller chain, I use it on my cruisers and destroyers, feel more confident with the 0.25” chain for the larger boats (just superstition, haven’t tested to see if it’s necessary.) the sprocket and hub for the rudder post is definitely more robust with the 0.25” chain, I would not be comfortable with the 0.122” style on any larger ships
Okay cool, thanks for the heads up. I didn't even see that chainring option on the site (likely because I only went into the 0.25 section) so I just wanted to make sure I didn't miss something. I do like how sturdy the 0.25 is, but the sprocket on the rudder's mandating that I be very careful with how I build the stern on my wood boat. Which is fine. Especially since the Texas' rudder is swinging like a big angry barn door now; hopefully improving my odds in the rematch with Baden later this spring.
