I wanted The .25 chain & sprocket but I was unable to find A 1” sprocket with a .125 bore that would fit in the stern of my ship. Yes the .1227 is small but it will have to do until I find a .25 sprocket
Thanks she is Really close to max weight fully loaded 23lb few ounces. I wish I could send you some liquid water I’ve had about enough of rain Wet and mud uh.
Wanted to update the status of my ship. She as ready as she will ever be for the brouhaha. Even installed a crane and sea plane RO.43. I had an issues with the hobbywing ESC. I was running two 550 motors in parallel it cause the esc to overload when going from full fwd to full rev. It caused the motors to drop out for 10 to 15sec. I solved the issues by installing another ESC and splitting the motors up. The guns are cycling well. Been making test runs in my pond sinking coke cans good practice. My hay makers turrets B&C have some extreme down angles. What’s your guys and gals opinion of positioning and aiming haymakers?
Boat looks good. Down angle is good, just can't exceed 20 degrees (looks fine from pictures) With ESC, couple things to check if you havent already. Make sure you select the correct low voltage cutout setting. There are two settings, LiPo and Nimh, selected by one of the little black jumpers. For anything but LiPo batteries, select Nihm. You could probably select Nimh either way. Voltage can dip below the setpoint under large-ish load, causing ESC to lock out for a short period of time. If that setpoint is good and you stick with two ESCs, make sure you pull one of the red wires on the lead to the y-harness so the BECs don't fight
Thank you for the compliment. I will double check the down angle. I actually have both Bec disconnected. Charlie from BC recommended I run a receiver battery. I’m running four 5000mah 3s lipo battery’s and life 6.6 2100mah battery for the receiver
Sidemounts generally are more effective as close to the ends of the boat as possible. Think of it as exposing the least amount of hull to receive incoming fire, especially in the bow. With the sidemount in B turret, you get max down angle, but that means your bow is right up against your target. If it were me I would center your stern gun. The off angle stern guns always seem to be angled the wrong way for me when trying to swing them around. Also all your other guns are very close range and have a narrow 'sweet spot' to get hits. Might not be a bad idea to range out the stern gun for some plinking. Looking really good though, Bru is going to be a lot of fun!
So I haven’t been typing a lot. Working with this old girl. I applied many things. Rework the water channel, installed larger kort props 1 1/2”, reworked the guns expansion chambers and 1/8 feed tubing.
Hey so after a bit, I took the rudder design you used and slapped it on the Idaho I'm building. I was tooling around with the boat this morning, trying to figure out how to get max coverage of the thrust cone, and Poof! came to the same solution. Slightly different, but I took a lot of your elements.
At it again decided to keep the ole girl after all. She needs some love. After the turkey shoot I was ready to move her to Mothball status on the shelf. But This is the game plan the brouhaha in March. One thing for sure getting the windows correct size below the water line can’t hurt. The original cut 1 1/4”. Got first layer glass going 1. strip hull repair ribs 2. Sand down to raw fiberglass 3. Install 1/8 stainless armor belt 4. Re fiberglass hull using 4” 5oz fiberglass roll thicker the better I’m shooting for at least 1/8 5. Recut windows to proper size 6. Rebuild SS and deck inserts use magnets 7. Paint
Maybe it is just how the glass is laid with the resin, but you definitely don't get a stringer in this boat. Were the windows really that deep? They looked ok. Not perfect but I guess if you are recutting anyways.
The drawing I have show a stringer/armor belt I believe it runs the full length. Will have to pull the drawings and post a picture. Yes the windows where cut a bit deep. I never gave it much thought until now
Yes, it has an armor belt, but it is internal/flush with the side of the hull. The stringer can only be there if it is an external or visible feature like casemate deck, bulge, etc. Hull sides are flush. Much like cruisers, the armor is there but it is internal to the hull sides or flush with them. Pretty much every ship bigger than a destroyer has an armor belt in our era, but it is only if a feature is externally visible or distinct that you get to put a stringer there. Remember the stringer is there to make sheeting easier/possible around such features.
From the rules: 11. A stringer shall be defined as any solid material that hull skin is attached to that forms the shape of the hull and is not classed as a rib. a. No stringers shall be used unless the shape of the hull dictates. Hull features that dictate the use of a stringer are: bulges, casement decks, casemate guns, knuckles, or armor belts. The stringer may not extend more than one rib beyond where that hull feature is prominent. As much as I would like there to be a stringer, sadly, the hull does not dictate one. I can see where it might not be 100% clear as it does say armor belt, but that is typically taken to be combined with the first statement that the feature must dictate the stringer, not you get a stringer if you have the following.
I believe theses ships did have a slight bulge it’s just not reflected in the mold. Dictate means written down. drawing show armor belt and Wikipedia’s dictates the belt. Best I can tell it lines up with the rules.
For re-fiberglassing, I recommend cutting strips of mat about 1/2" wide and using those on just the ribs from the inside. Be sure to rough up the insides of the ribs and existing bottom of windows. Mat is much more suitable than cloth. You can get a package of mat at lowes/home depot, Bondo brand, found in the adhesives section with other Bondo products - They build up thickness quickly: 2-3 layers should be enough. I will also run strips across the bottom, interwoven with the ribs (one layer on bottom, one on ribs, repeat).
