REVIEW: Sunhokey Improved Prusa i3 3D printer

Discussion in 'Digital Design and Fabrication' started by Tugboat, Dec 20, 2015.

  1. Brian Furlotte

    Brian Furlotte Member

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  2. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    Intriguing. I have ordered a piece to try. But on my Mendel, I got parts to stick with bed temp, kapton, and printer settings. A few really big prints needed Big Sexy Hair (yes, that's the name of the cheap hair spray I used).
     
  3. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    How well does it hold up?
     
  4. Lou

    Lou It's just toy boats -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    I wondered where you shop for supplies, now we know...
    [​IMG]
    Here we see a picture of the "normal" hairspray using Japanese captain - Captain Big Sexy Hair
     
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  5. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    lmao! I saw the can on the shelf, clad in gleaming dark red with a fishnet hose pattern (not kidding), labelled 'Big Sexy Hair', with an slogan on it proclaiming it to be 'The All-Nighter Hair Spray'... I HAD to have it.
     
  6. Brian Furlotte

    Brian Furlotte Member

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    (Ask an engineer a question, this is what you get.....)
    Seems to be doing fine. I have probably printed 30-40 prints on it so far. Had black abs stick so hard it actually stained the white surface. Put you can scrape or sand it smooth and keep going. I got the 200 mm x 200 mm white and black version from printinz.com

    Shipped fast and it seems to work. The website has some good information on it on how to control adhesion. about 6-8 prints into it, I had some severe problems with lifting and prints popping off. Thought about what to try but went to the website first. They addressed these problems and what I thought about doing (acetone cleaning) was not recommended. Wiping it off with the alcohol I use to clean the dry erase board really helped.

    My only problem was it is not the flattest piece. I had to two way tape it to my glass plate to help hold it flat, then it printed fine. Not sure, but my heat bed might have been part of the problem also. maybe the plastic warped a bit as the bottom side of it heated up before the top side. Never really took the time to investigate, just two way taped it to the glass, clips hold the glass down and off I went. I have been printing lego castle pieces for my kids and nephew. (OK, and me!)

    There is another option out there, the metal plate with a magnetic hold down option that I also wondered about called the Gecko-tek. Probably should have spent the money for the system for the ease of removing the printed part. It does remove pretty hard sometimes from the PEI.

    Note: the gecko tec for my Kossel clear printer from Blue Eagle Labs with magnetic base is $92 delivered. Thought I would try the PEI for the lower price of $35 delivered first.

    Hope this helps.
    Brian
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2016
  7. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    Very helpful, thanks!
    I'd be concerned that scraping or sanding the surface would destroy any flatness it had, unless one were to resurface the whole sheet?

    I'm thinking of picking up something like this in the 0.06" thickness - should be thick enough to clip on top of my bed rather than need to be adhered, and still thin enough to flex prints off and also to not really warp from the hot bed / cooler surface disparity?

    Lego castle, pirates&imperials, and forestmen were always my favorite sets.
     
  8. ish311

    ish311 Active Member

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    ordered that exact item in .03 with the 3m transfer test running now after 3 hours of calibrating (bloody flowchart for calibration is wrong for a rostock btw) sofar stickign really well but will find out shortly.

    so very very nice. ease of printing in pla but with the strength of abs
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2016
  9. Reckless

    Reckless Active Member

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    any of you guys tried window tint in place of kapton or blue painters ?
     
  10. Radioman

    Radioman Active Member

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    Having problems with lifting. Read the posts and the web article. I ordered a glass plate and a piece of the PEI and two sided tape. Did the hair spray not much help. Heated the bed to 110 but the bed is not reaching that temp, about 10 degrees lower. Have a new temp prob and heating element coming. We'll see if anything works. Buy the way I have been using Fusion 360 and getting the hang of things.
     
  11. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    failure to reach 110 is usually on the PSU and not the bed or thermistor.

    same corner lift as previously posted or a general adherence issue of the 1st layer?
     
  12. Radioman

    Radioman Active Member

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    Thanks Nick. A;; four corners are lifted at least 1/8
     

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  13. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    Couple questions...

    Are you using slic3r or cura?

    What layer height you're using, infill % and hotend temp?

    It doesn't look like you're getting much adhesion out of your first layer, if you are confident in your zero, you might consider adjusting the first layer extrusion % upwards. What is your first layer height and extrusion multiplier?

    If you put your hand under your hotend, can you feel the draft from the fan? If you're printing ABS, this is a bad thing to feel. You may need to shroud the hotend fan so it can't cause a draft.

    How warm is the room you're printing in? Is there any source of draft or air movement, in particular near the printer.
     
  14. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    How did this fare for you? I haven't ordered yet. Do you think the 0.03mm is thick enough to be able to just clip in place rather than adhere?

    Edit: Ah, I see your edit. It worked well then, good good. But how do feel about simply clipping the sheet to the build glass?
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2016
  15. Radioman

    Radioman Active Member

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    Nick, I 'll have to look into the things you mention and get back to you. I am using Slic3r and I belive the first layer is 3mm. Infill is 30%.
     
  16. Radioman

    Radioman Active Member

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    Need some help! I get a error of mintemp not held. The hotend and bed heatup and starts to print. Then suts down with error message. What should be the output voltage of the PSU, 12 or 24 volts? Been searching for answers on the web but little confusing. Everything had been working.
     
  17. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    12VDC is the more common
    So the hotend reaches temp, but once it begins printing it cuts off with that error message right away? Or takes a little bit before it happens?
     
  18. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    Check your thermistor wiring, may have a loose or intermittent connection problem that is fine until the hotend moves, then it opens for a moment.
     
  19. Radioman

    Radioman Active Member

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    Output voltage is 12 volts. The problem seems to be with the thermistor. Will try a new one. Thanks Nick.
     
  20. ish311

    ish311 Active Member

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    sorry about the delay. lost my desktop for a few days. .03 is to thin for just clipping but the .06 should be thick enough. pei is fairly stiff stuff think acrylic sheet same thickness