REVIEW: Sunhokey Improved Prusa i3 3D printer

Discussion in 'Digital Design and Fabrication' started by Tugboat, Dec 20, 2015.

  1. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    I ended up with a 0.5mm ultem sheet, I'll secure it to the bed and give it a go on Monday
     
  2. Radioman

    Radioman Active Member

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    :(Need help!!!! For the last few days I been having trouble with a filament jam,ever since I changed filament. I am using ABS bed temp 100 and 210 for the nozzle. It prints one or two layers than jams up at the top of the heatsink. I tried different temps with same results. Don't know what to do. Help!!!!
     
  3. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    Printing ABS at a relatively low temp, for one. 245C is a good number to play with.
     
  4. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    210 is pretty cold for ABS

    Lets see some settings, (print speed, retraction distance & speed, etc) pictures, so on and so forth.

    How do you know the jam is at the top of the heatsink, tell us what you've tried.

    Lot easier to work through a problem if we know more about it.
     
  5. Radioman

    Radioman Active Member

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    Did try 240c no luck.
     
  6. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    List what Nick asked for, it'll help us help you.
     
  7. Radioman

    Radioman Active Member

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    I have found the problem. The fan was not working, on and off. Replaced working fine. Thanks all.
     
  8. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    That would do it.

    Given the style of hotend you have... If that fan had been working, excessive retraction could also cause the issue, as could an improperly seated bowden tube, a bowden tube with an end not cut square, a fan pointing the wrong direction and other wonderful factors
     
  9. Kotori87

    Kotori87 Well-Known Member

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    Hey Tugboat, my own version of this printer is assembled and ready for testing. I am looking at this thing and trying to figure out how to build an enclosure for it to enable larger prints like hull sections. The back half is easy, I traced the parts before I even assembled the frame. But the front part is trickier... any ideas on this?
     
  10. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    I build an enclosure well bigger than the printer itself in case I need access to make adjustments. My current enclosure is cheap foamboard from the dollar store, held together with hot glue, and it works great. Previous iteration was cat-safe, made from 3/4" ply that I had on hand. Only key points on the sides is: Make sure you put a hole next to where the power supply draws cooling air. I also added a cooling fan blowing on the electronics (had a little overheating problem on long prints), so that was a hole on that side. I left the front opening open, and cover it with an old towel when printing. I just pull a corner aside to peek in :)