Progress update: The first of the preliminary templates is complete. The links below will take you to the rough version of the template for the three pieces of the keel. .dxf Visit this site .pdf Visit this site Decks, caprail and ribs should begin to follow shortly. For those of you interested in a visual representation of how a model appears at this stage, here you go: All of those datum planes split the model according to the location and thickness of ribs, caprail, keel, and the various other feature integral to the hull.
Is it just me, or is the keel missing its front? Anyway, I noticed that you chose to use one keel running the full length of the ship. This is a little unusual for modern high-end wood construction, especially in a ship with restricted interior space like a cruiser. On my transports, I used only two segments of the keel to get the shapes of the bow and stern, and left the rest open. In other ships, you can use a bow and a stern segment, and then run TWO parallel keels for the main section of the boat to form a water channel. Is there any chance you could incorporate either of those?
Good catch. Changing the keel so as to be split in the center of the hull is entirely possible and is definitely no problem this early in the design process. I'll probably try dropping in the split keel along 2/3 or so of the hull length. The easiest way to make the adjustments with the model that I have is to slice the CAD geometry as if I were building a stringer, then mirror it along its own centerline to verify that the component is symmetrical as appropriate. It'll also make it easier for somebody to build as they won't have to be caught looking for a printer capable of printing 44" long sheets. Since the main deck is flattened, all except for the portions at the extreme aft of the hull and from the step, forward could actually be assembled without a traditional keel and just temporary stringers to maintain rib alignment.
Here's a quick progress update. I've incorporated the recommendations presented by Kotori87, integrating a water channel into the keel of the wooden frame. The main decks/subdecks are now finished and now only need their hatch cutouts split into the solid model. The front end of the keel now terminates into the forwardmost rib, which butts up against the impenetrable block in the bow. While it's a deviation from traditional hull design, I believe it should make it easier to have a sharpened bow and it's already prepared to accommodate a molded fiberglass bow insert. Ribs are all now separated from the main solid body and mating grooves between the ribs, deck, and keel are all in place. The keel is fully modeled yet the bilge keels still need to be trimmed and the appropriate slots still need to be added to the ribs to facilitate their attachment. I'm still planning on adding centermarks to locations on the ribs where it's necessary for the stuffing tubes/prop shafts to pass through. Does anybody who is comfortable with/has the necessary tools to create a solid model want to model a basic superstructure and turret shells? While I figure I can be finished with the hull itself in another 6-10 hours on the computer, I don't yet have any estimates on how long it'll take for me to do the superstructure, especially as I don't have a paper copy of the plans and Unigraphics doesn't seem too keen on allowing me to import the full tiff image needed to just "trace" the image. On the other hand, I might try bringing it up in 1/144 in adobe acrobat and try using the measuring tools instead.
Yet another quick update. I seem to have lost track of time tonight so a few minutes more to show you the following is of no significant consequence to the impact of this project upon my sleeping schedule. The lines at the stern are vectors representing the scale positions of the prop shafts. Cutouts accomodating the passage and positioning of the stuffing tubes into the hull are now also fully integrated into the model; no more hunting for just the right spot on the bottom of the hull to position the stuffing tubes. Due to the way that some of the ribs will terminate to clear the water channel, I'm modeling a few as "D" shapes, where the top cross beam just under the subdeck will need to be cut away after the entire frame as been glued together. The water channel has been sized around a BC pump; the plastic impeller housing will need to be shaved on two sides very slightly to allow it to fit between the sides of the channel (or the sides of the channel need to be cut away a bit after assembly). The design will accomodate the ability to place the screen across the entire water channel (reducing the chance of blockage) if anybody should so desire to build it in that configuration. Kotori et al, this project is nearly ready for the rest of you guys to carry away the rest of the way.
What size props are you planning on using? Oh, yeah, very impressive work, too I'm glad we have people talented in such things
According to the drawings, I believe the scale prop diameter is 0.85" which would make 1.0" diameter props just about right in 1/144 assuming a maximum surface area increase of 25%, if memory serves my right. Does anybody know if this is correct across formats? While the design technically makes it possible to drive all four props, the inboard two are definitely the ones to go for (with the outboard ones as drag props for anybody so inclined). Something that does still need to be addressed is creating the template for the rudder and figure out a way to make it easy to make and install accurately. I have to admit, I really like the choice of going with 1/4" ribs; with only minor modifications for the bow and stern impenetrable areas, the templates could be scaled up by 150% and used to build in 1/96 scale. On a different note, does anybody happen to know of a shop that offer laser cutting for wood parts at a reasonable price in low volumes?
mm... I think 1.25" props might be a better choice if it's not toolate to do that. Better acceleration & handling at a minimal cost in realism.
The clearance between the shafts and hull should allow that to still be possible for construction under rule sets where it's permitted. However, after looking it up for the MABG, the allowance is for 50% larger by area, so for Big Gun use, at least in the MABG, a hair over 1.0" diameter is the maximum permitted. It appears that we'll need to figure out a definition for prop/motor combinations for both Big Gun and Fast Gun as I'm sure the configurations will differ.
Hey Kotori87 and Webwookie... Check your emails, I attempted to send one to each of you, but I'm not sure if they went thru. If not, email me or post to let me know!! I may be able to help out.
HERE IT IS! Visit this site So far, I only have a pdf version uploaded; it's two sheets one is 11x17 while the other is larger. Bow and stern impenetrable blocks have not been included in the drawing; I'm not quite sure how to address those details. Some notes: All ribs except for the forwardmost and aftmost are 1/4" thick. The first and last ribs are 1/8" thick and technically are the ends of the impenetrable area. Deck and Subdeck are 1/8" each. Keel(s) and bilge keels are also 1/8" thick. The bilge keels approximately define the bottom of the penetrable sides. Battlers Connection 6" Shafts are recommended for the inboard props and for those few of you out there who may want to power the outboard props, 5" shafts should be used for the outboard props. My recommended building sequence at this point is as follows: lay aft subdeck flat on building surface and clap securely; install ribs 7-17; install aft keel, split amidship keels, and bilge keels; flip over; clap securely; install fore keel, rib 5, and rib 6; clamp fore keel securely to worksurface; install remaining ribs followed by the vertical piece at the deck step and then the forward subdeck; install/fabricate impenetrable bow and stern segments When printing from pdf, be very careful to be sure that you're printing in 1:1 kotori, gascan, mike, assuming that I'll be starting on a design for the superstructure in the next couple of days, I now leave the design/selection of the internal components in your able hands.
I don't believe the message made it through but if you're offering to be a guinea pig to test out the hull (in any way, shape or form), by all means, yes to anything you're offering to try out (and you'll wind up with a new ship that should hopefully have been relatively easy to build).
Ok, I think the emails went thru to both of you this time.... There seemed to be a hiccup in the website the first time I tried. Let me know if you get them or not. Thanks!!!
Hey guys, I just found out that my spam filter no longer likes PMs. I found Cannonman's two PMs, as well as several others, in my spam folder. I'm getting that fixed right now, but webwookie you should check your spam filter as well. Also, Webwookie, is there any chance you could re-arrange the pieces so that all the 1/4" pieces are on the same page, and all the 1/8" pieces are on the same page? That may make it easier to manufacture. Furthermore, have you made any sort of compensation for the thickness of balsa or planking?
The deck is positioned such that the top surface is at the appropriate scale location; the assumption was based upon the belief that the method of "planking" for the deck would be scoring the surface and drawing or rubbing in graphite to define the edges while the ribs are set back a hair to account for a compromise between 1/32" and 1/16" material to plank the body of the hull. I can play around with the section arrangements some more and sort them by thickness; I do need to see if I can break it down into a series of 8.5x11 sheets (with a few taped together) or exclusively 11x17 sheets to make it easier for more people to print out the patterns. Moving forward with revisions, I'll probably add a 1.xx to the end of the filename to clarify the differences between versions of the files.
Two other things. First, try and separate out the parts by material thickness. That way, you can just tack an entire sheet down to your piece of material and start cutting, rather than worrying about "is this the right thickness for that part?" If not, at least label which parts are what thickness. The other thing is, I don't see any part for the bow keel. I see two bits for the stern, the twin keels amidships, and a single center piece for the bottom in the forward area, but I don't see anything that helps define the shape of the bow. I know you're planning to use fiberglass parts for the bow and stern, but other people might not. My student version of Solidworks expired a week or so ago, so I can't help out much right now. But I'm looking to get some sort of CAD up and running again soon.
I did mention the issue with the bow keel/block in one of my earlier posts; I'm guessing the best way to address it would be for me to generate a 3-view drawing and post that as something that can be referenced for cutting/carving. Everyone, please let me know if you find other details where improvements can be made to the templates. Also, if anybody is planning to build a ship off the existing data that I've posted, post your progress here and let us know if you run into any issues during the course of the build so that they can be remedied before we have any rookie builders attempting to assemble the kit without any plan of recourse in the event they encounter issues. ---- FYI, a general drawing of the frame and a 3-view of the bow block are now availabe via the file manager at the following location with more drawings on the way: Visit this site
