Russian Orfey Class Destroyer

Discussion in 'Ship Plans' started by webwookie, Jul 8, 2008.

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  1. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    I have seen a set of Li-Ions cook off after a sink... very cool! (not mine) They had seen several battles, tho... the covering that protected them from the water cracked and the sink brought about the cataclysm. The boat was saved, tho :)
     
  2. Cannonman

    Cannonman Ultimate Hero :P -->> C T D <<--

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    Ooops, Seems I've gotten us off topic. [:0][V] I started a new thread so that the battery discussion can continue without disrupting Webwookies thread any farther.

    It is located here:

    http://www.rcnavalcombat.com/rcnavalcombat/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1834


    Carry on with the destroyer discussion [:)]
     
  3. DeletedUser

    DeletedUser Guest

    ok tug how could i build a single shot cannon or something for torps or i could buy 3 or 4 cannons off of BC and stick thoes in there
     
  4. DeletedUser

    DeletedUser Guest

    and um webwookie when im building is pine,oak or ceader which one should i use
     
  5. webwookie

    webwookie Active Member

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    take_down, you want to use plywood for the ribs, caprail,keels and baseplate if at all possible. While plywood is commercially available in fir, birch, poplar, and a few others, you should go with birch (aircraft-grade or "baltic") plywood if you can. You should be able to get a sheet (a 24"x12" piece will do just fine) from a local hobby shop for less than $10.00 (you should expect to use a little less than approximately 24"x6" of it). The balswood necessary to sheet the hull and build a lightweight superstructure shouldn't cost more than $5.00. I don't know of any specific hobby shops in Jackson but if there's no place local, Rider's Hobbies in Ypsilanti or Flint should have all the wood that you'll need.

    However, if I had to choose between the three options you've listed, I'd keep in mind that pine can have a relatively low density which would reduce weight; however, it lacks in durability and hardness. Oak is hard, tough, and strong but also very dense and would severely reduce the displacement available for your internal components. Cedar is reasonably strong and resists rot, making it tough but it can have limited hardness, making it possible to be damaged as with pine. I assume that the pieces of each that you have are in standard lumber thicknesses; you will find that they would require a lot of work just to resaw and plane them down to the thicknesses that the hull calls for.

    I used balsawood for my entire hull as I plan to reinforce the frame with epoxy resin and fiberglass. If you go the balsawood route, you'll save on weight but you can't avoid the fiberglass reinforcing otherwise the hull would need very substantial repairs after taking even the most minor of hits.
     
  6. DeletedUser

    DeletedUser Guest

    ok i can probably get the plywood from lowes and about the weight can it go over a little bit or would that throw off the whole ship stability because for the cannons i was going to get two cannons with strieght magazine and then hook up two little co2 tanks like the ones for air powered pellet guns and that would be my defence systemand i wasgoing to have them set up pointing torwards the front of the ship so i could go up like im going to ram the ship then shoot then run away
     
  7. lalimerulez

    lalimerulez Member

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    just to let ya kno dude ramming is illegal i would try aiming the of to both sides but i aint a expert and i dont got a ship
     
  8. DeletedUser

    DeletedUser Guest

    i know it is i said go up like you are going to then shoot and run away
     
  9. PreDread

    PreDread Active Member

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    With the amount of stuff listed in your list, your destroyer might not even float.... thats if you can even cram half of it in the hull.

    IIRC, in fast gun, this ship is a half unit ship. Meaning a ONE half unit gun and NO bilge pump, or no gun and a small pump (fast gun guys correct me if I'm wrong).

    In addition, you don't want to get your plywood from Lowes, it will be too thick ( and heavy ) and will likely be warped. You need thin (like 1/8" ) model aircraft grade stuff that you can get a hobby shop or craft store.
     
  10. klibben

    klibben Member

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    I believe most destroyers are 1.5 units. So 1 gun, half unit pump.
     
  11. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    A lot of the little ones are 0.5 units. Some are 1.0 units, and a very few really big DD's are 1.5 units (Gearing and Mogador are the first 2 that jump to mind, I know there are some IJN DDs that are that size, too).

    But yes, in fast gun, .5 units means a half unit pump, or a half unit gun. There was talk of proposing a rule change to allow dinky ships to run a 1/4 unit pump and a 1/4 unit gun (1/16" pump outlet, 13 round magazine for the gun).
     
  12. DeletedUser

    DeletedUser Guest

    yeah i changed my mind a single gun with 1 verry small co2 canister and the bilge battery and engine,servos,raido,ect.
     
  13. DeletedUser

    DeletedUser Guest

    for get that what i saod above this cant i make it a little bigger or is that ileagel
     
  14. webwookie

    webwookie Active Member

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    The maximum allowed extra hull volume has already been added to the design of the plans.
     
  15. DeletedUser

    DeletedUser Guest

  16. webwookie

    webwookie Active Member

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    Just thought I'd let everybody know that according to the computer (and we all know how "accurate" that is[:p]), as-designed in these plans, 2lbs and a hair of an ounce will bring it down to indicated waterline.

    First thought that comes to mind, regardless, is "ouch."
     
  17. mightyKG5

    mightyKG5 Member

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    hey im building a ofrey for a transport and im not going to put anything in it though me and my group are going to use it for target practice
     
  18. Anachronus

    Anachronus Well-Known Member

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    Of course they have to catch it first.[:D]
     
  19. webwookie

    webwookie Active Member

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    In fast gun, it should be a wicked fast ship that has relatively little penetrable area beneath the waterline (the sides are relatively vertical on only about 60% of the length of the hull) and very narrow beam. It also has a relatively simple superstructure that makes for a quick build (waiting for my epoxy and fiberglass to arrive is a different story).
     
  20. mightyKG5

    mightyKG5 Member

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    ha ha yeah when i am finished building mine wim just going to put it on the water and use my friends hiei battlecruiser(OR battleship) to shoot it up you know just to see how much it can take
     
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