Russian Orfey Class Destroyer

Discussion in 'Ship Plans' started by webwookie, Jul 8, 2008.

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  1. Anachronus

    Anachronus Well-Known Member

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    MWC gives it a 21 second speed. Fast as you can get in that hobby. Of course her real speed was 35+ knots so the prototype was no slouch.
     
  2. mightyKG5

    mightyKG5 Member

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    yeah im using a thicker wood so if it gets hit in the rong spot it wont shatter and the hole ship caves in on its self
     
  3. Beast Of Burden

    Beast Of Burden New Member

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    jest be cool t-d




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    Edited by - Beast Of Burden on 07/19/2008 2:14:08 PM
     
  4. Anachronus

    Anachronus Well-Known Member

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    Good idea ifyou don't plan to arm it. Webwookie plans to use balsa reinforced with fibreglass for his. I am going that route as well as I plan to arm mine.
     
  5. Lou

    Lou Plastic magic -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    You could always make your own fiberglass hull. Build the hull out of whatever you have laying around. Make it solid. EX: 2X4 cut into strips for ribs. Then use more 2x4 to fill the spaces in between the ribs. Sand it smooth.
    Now take aluminum foil and cover the plug. Spray with 3M adhesive and lay on a layer of cloth. Hit it with fiberglass resin and let dry. Pull it off the plug and pull out the foil (be careful, the hull is weak at this point). Then lay up more layers inside the hull. Mark the rib locations and use cloth strips to reinforce those area. Cut it out and you are ready to go.
    Plug can be ugly because it is a one time use. Any detail will be lost (you can always add that back on the fiberglass hull).
    Simple and cheap.
     
  6. Anachronus

    Anachronus Well-Known Member

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    Would that end up in a lighter hull? I can see it would be a bit sturdier than a reinforced balsa frame.
     
  7. Lou

    Lou Plastic magic -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    Depends, strength is in the cloth, not the resin. Too much resin (easy to do) and you get a heavy hull. If you use balsa for ribs and reinforce with fiberglass, you still need to water proof the balsa. Just seems easier to make the hull. Just my .02 cents.
    [:)]
     
  8. mightyKG5

    mightyKG5 Member

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    yeah im using mine for a transport for nats next year
     
  9. Anachronus

    Anachronus Well-Known Member

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    It is food for thought. I am just getting into building wood hulls but a fibreglass MK.II could be a possibility. What weight cloth are/would you be using?
     
  10. Lou

    Lou Plastic magic -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    Build the hull out of 2x4 material, can't get any cheaper than that (unless free). Nothing expensive as you will throw out the hull later (it will want to twist with changes in temp).
    Go to Home Depot or the like and get the standard cloth. Get some matt if you want it (in addition).
    Use their brand of fiberglass or whatever you can find. This hull will get you on the water for a year or two. By then you will have a better understanding of what ship you want and can switch the internals to the new ship.
    Cost of plug : practically nothing
    Fiberglass and cloth : $30
    For what it's worth...

    [:)]
     
  11. Anachronus

    Anachronus Well-Known Member

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    Worth a shot. You can make the superstructure durable then just swap out hulls every so often.
    [8D]
     
  12. Lou

    Lou Plastic magic -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    have to disagree. We are talking about a very small destroyer. Superstructure should be made out of card stock and easily destroyed. It needs to be super light. No balsa, no resin, no nothing other than thin plastic. Think of this ship in a turn at 21 seconds, she could easily roll.
    Think light,light,light,light,light,etc...

    Won't win you any best of scale awards, but it will get you on the water and give you confidence in building and being in a battle situation.
     
  13. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    Use coffee stir-sticks for the masts! I'm with Lou on the SS issue. This ship is teeny-tiny! Make the SS out of .030 sheet and helium, or you'll roll, roll, roll your boat... (just got up. sleeepy... need caffeine!)
     
  14. Anachronus

    Anachronus Well-Known Member

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    2 liter bottle plastic too much? Card stock would be very replaceable though. Just print out a couple of sheets of superstructure to keep on hand.
     
  15. webwookie

    webwookie Active Member

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    Recommended superstructure construction materials:
    1. 3x5 index cards (or similar)
    2. Contest-grade light balsa
    3. thin sheet styrene
    4. Contest-grade light balsa frame with Japanese paper skin?
     
  16. Anachronus

    Anachronus Well-Known Member

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    If you go the card stock route you can print sections on the 3x5 cards that Avery makes in packs for your printer. Don't use inkjet of course it will run when it gets wet.
     
  17. webwookie

    webwookie Active Member

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    Exactly what I had in mind. I'm personally going the sacrificial balsa route for my current build; I'll probably seal it with a light coat of something or japanese paper and nitrate dope (if I do anything to it at all) prior to a light coat of paint.
     
  18. mightyKG5

    mightyKG5 Member

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    ok webwookie so birch is a good wood though for building this ship
     
  19. webwookie

    webwookie Active Member

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    Specifically aircraft-grade birch plywood. While more than you'd need and not the absolute cheapest, scroll down to the bottom of this page:
    Visit this site
     
  20. webwookie

    webwookie Active Member

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    I've uploaded a new version of the plans and the link has been added to the first post. This published version is revision 0.5.11.
     
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