RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" I do like to start with the ribs because I generally trust their accuracy moreso than the subdeck outline of some plan sets. The HMS Erin is a great example. Wreno sent a very precise set of CAD drawn ribs for the ship. After comparing his ribs to the plan set I had on hand, I found out that the subdeck outline was incorrectly drawn. The fix was to use the CAD ribs to redraw the subdeck outline into the correct shape. I can honestly say that the Erin hull is probably as accurate as it can be scale wise as anything out there. I'm with Clark on the tongue and slot joints. Butt joints can break loose from impacts such as rams. The tongue and slot glue join may break loose, but the joint will stay together. If I were to use butt joints on a hull, I would reinforce the joint with either triangle or square wood stock.
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" ZTUDENTZ!! I vill be in ze woodz mit der Boy Shkouts in a short hour. You may post und I vill answer on Sunday, ja? Ja! Ser Goot! Der professor.
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" LOL!! Der Tugboat Jugen!! I visualize a red shield-shaped patch, with TJ in rune font on it Maybe presentation daggers with the inscription 'Blut und Balsa' on the blade I have survived the trip, also I sweated profusely and drank 3 (THREE) gallons of water on Saturday alone. I am a hydrating mofo. I also can't wait to get back in the shop and do the stern subdeck, and the stringers! And casement decks!
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" Okay, students! I want to see some pics of YOUR efforts to date! I will be posting a lesson on subdecks and stringers this weekend, although some pics of doing the stern subdeck will appear shortly to tide you over.
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" Thank you joker, you make your professor proud. Brings a tear to me eye! I _am_ doing a little trick with the stern subdeck to tie it into the forward structure better, so don't do that yet! I'll post some pics shortly.
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" Hey, who doesn't occasionally go out and chase the big ones? We will be addressing the hogging... the forward keels actually need to come UP to the forward subdeck. This will happen while we glue the playwood scraps to the sides of the vertical part of the forward keel. Not sure why it came out that way, but mine did as well. I'm looking at the keel on the plans (which I need to post for the next lesson on casements), which we used to draw our forward keels. We shall see. But it's not a big deal. Most errors in wood can be corrected pretty easily. The ones that can't are ugly!
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" The wood, design, subdeck curvature, etc can cause that. If you used a 1/4" subdeck, then you can lay it upside down (if a flat deck), weight it flat, and add 1/8" strips of wood to the underside of the subdeck between each rib. That will help stiffen the sub deck. Another trick is to weight it down then install some of the hull bottom. That stiffen the entire frame and resists the frame bowing. That is why I like building ships upside down. To keep weight on the hull while I stiffen it up with subdeck doublers and /or hull bottom material.
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" From the plans, the deck at the bow has a slight upward slant. As mine sits, the deck is fine, but the top of the foward keel does not quite reach. I am supposing that this is because it could be glued to the main keel at a slight down angle. It would only take a few degrees to make the change. Easy fix is: when we glue the wood on for the solid area, span the distance between the forward keel and the subdeck. Or, fracture the epoxy holding the forward keel to the main keel, and glue the top of the forward keel to the subdeck, which will set the angle. Then, reglue the two keels together. If you haven't glued the stern subdeck yet, don't worry about fixing the hog on that end.
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" A question from some one auditing this class. Does your method of drawing the subdeck based on rib positions stem from the inaccurate Vanguard plans or has that always been your method. I can see it working for something with a simple plan view but get a ship with lots of casemates and not so many ribs could it not lead to errors?
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" To chip in on the answer to that question ... Yes. That is the reason I do ribs first then check the subdeck outline afterwards with the ribs as guides. Done carefully, a more accurate subdeck outline can be drawn if the outline on the plan is off. The HMS ERIN plan I have is a perfect example. After checking the subdeck on the plans using the highly accurate CAD drawn ribs outlines sent to me, I found the width of the subdeck to be off as much as 3/8" in places on each side. The bow and stern curves were off as well. The fix was to measure and set the rib sections width on the plan and redraw the subdeck. This is not lead to any errors even though the Erin has casements along most of the ship. Like most things, carefully done it will turn out good.
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" Mike and I do it that way for the same reason. You never know when the plan view is off, but if you go from the frames, you will at least match the frames (insert lolz here). Posting tonite on stern subdeck and some casement-y stuff.
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" I'm about to do that fire Prince Edmund. Well, tracing the outline of the hull to wood then cutting inside the lines. I foresee much sanding in my near future.
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" Its a Strike Models Hull and it is good and thick. But yes. A better fit that way.
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" LOL... I HAVE made progress, and have some pics... but Friday night someone reminded me that Lil Scharnie needed resheeting, and hey, isn't there a battle next weekend? So I'm out in the shop getting high on Weldwood and resheeting. The stern subdeck is glued in on the Pillar of Autmun (Edie), and I will get some pics of the stringer-creation process for a Sunday School lesson. Now, for your lack of faith, go hence and say 30 Heil Fluegels and sin no more.
