SB-101 'Building MN Edgar Quinet'

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by Tugboat, Jul 6, 2010.

  1. Evil Joker

    Evil Joker Member

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    RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry"
    so we are going to make a pump?
    that will be cool. it would be my 1st
     
  2. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" We will be making a pump. I will be battling all weekend, so not today, though LOL :)
     
  3. Evil Joker

    Evil Joker Member

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    RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" sweet its all good . will we have the ship done by next year.
    i need to get the kid to get a raido off e bay
     
  4. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" In spite of battling this weekend, I got some work done on the ship! I even took pics and will be posting a short lesson about getting started on the solid parts at the bow and stern...

    I also have submitted the appropriate documents to the MWC Board of Directors to ask for permission to use the scale rudder (which is a bit over 2 square inches, vice 1.75 sq. in. that is a standard Class 2 rudder under the rules. I will post the BOD's response (well, I'll trim it to YES or NO) as soon as I get it. There is plenty of other work that can be done before we need a rudder, so no fears on that holding up work.
     
  5. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry"
    Okay... we need to have some solid area at the bow and stern!
    First, get some small scraps of wood and a pencil or sharpie or something. Hardcore Axis captains can prick their fingers and use blood. Hold one of the scraps with a flat edge up against the bottom of the subdeck like below. Note that gap we mentioned before, that is going to be fixed while we do this.
    [​IMG]
    Now, trace around the front, back, and bottom edges of the keel there. I labelled mine port and stbd, just to be silly. They should be the same shape, unless you sanded something funny on the keel. Und ve are NOT to be being mit der funny, are ve, mein schnitzelchens?!?
    [​IMG]
    Now, using your saw, cut those out (probably didn't need the pic to illustrate, but what the hey? :)
    [​IMG]
    I went ahead and did the stern areas as well, before mixing epoxy... same principle as the forward hard area. I marked a 1-inch mark on the scrap wood, and slid it forward till the 1-inch mark was at the back end of the stern keel.
    [​IMG]
    Zo! Before you mix your waterproof epoxy, make sure that you have 3 small clamps ready to go! 2 for the bow, because it wants a clamp top and bottom, and 1 for the stern (it's smaller). Don't forget to put epoxyon top of the scrap pieces!
    [​IMG]
    Next, we will be sanding the subdeck to match the tops of the ribs! After that, serious work on casement decks and the stringers can begin! Until ze next time, ztudentz!! Heil Fluegel!
     
  6. Evil Joker

    Evil Joker Member

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    RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" the bow is going to be 2in solid area rite
     
  7. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" Nope! To fit in the ribs with 1/4" ply, I had to sacrifice an inch of solid at the bow. Really, on a cruiser, one shouldn't be close enough to need the extra inch, and the nose is so skinny on Edgar, you wouldn't gain a lot in protection from frontal shots, either. To add insult to injury, I will let you know that after we get the frames, subdeck, casement decks and stringers all epoxied to gether nice and tight, we are going to file down two of our amidships ribs to be 1/8" wide where they contact the balsa, so that we aren't over our solid limit. But wait, there IS a bonus to kind of make it up...

    As part of the process of getting the scale rudder approved for MWC use, I had to calculate the actual surface area of the rudder. And it was GOOD. Where MWC allows Armored cruisers 1.75 square inches, and IRC allows 2 square inches (class 3 in IRC)... Edgar Quinet's scale rudder is 2.210 square inches. For MWC guys, that's a huge change. It has NOT been approved yet, but it looks good. Keep zose fingerz unt toezes crossed mein studenten!! Until we have ze defintive anzwer... we build!

    If you haven't bought your cheap $9 not-a-dremel from Harbor Freight, get it cause we're going to go crazy soon! Or, get ready for a LOT of hand sanding.

    Until ze next time, studenten! Heil Fluegel!
     
  8. Anachronus

    Anachronus Well-Known Member

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    RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" I have always favoured scale rudders and props. In both size and location.
     
  9. Evil Joker

    Evil Joker Member

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    RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" ok so we follow the bow 1in back
     
  10. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" Herr Jokker, you are korrekt. As vun off der bilders... Iam looking forward to zeeing how vell dey turn, ja? JA? 8) 8D
     
  11. Evil Joker

    Evil Joker Member

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    RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry"
    i have a konig that can turn in one of those little kiddy pools. looks like a compass.
    i hope i does well for the kids sake. would not like to sink him(yeah right)[​IMG]
     
  12. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" I will be posting a lesson on making stringers and the cvasement decks this weekend. If you haven't started sanding the subdecks in to where the frames are, you might want to start. If you did your shopping and have the rotary tool, I'd use that with the big sanding drum to do it. By hand it will take a while...

    I will also be posting a lesson on using styrofoam to form the bottom of the ship (with a set of pics for those using balsa, too). It's almost time to put a layer of fiberglass on the bottom!! If you go with Balsa for the bottom, your hand-held saw will be fine for the task, but you will need to accquire a bunch of balsa blocks to use. If you use scavenged styrofoam, you can scavenge it anywhere, or actually purchase it. I scavenged mine at work. John (Ragresen), when you get to this point in your build, let me know and I'll get some to you at a battle. The stuff I have is really high-density styrofoam, but any density will do if you can't get that. The kind they use for shipping TVs and computer parts is good. The impact resistance will be coming from the fiberglass in any case, and on the inside of the hull, it'll still get some protection.

    You guys don't see the prep work, but to give you an idea... work on the forthcoming lessons on guns and the pump started Monday night. Gun testing will be this weekend with Brian K (MWC Webmaster and mad scientist); I'll post some info at that point, but the lesson on guns will be later.

    Tonite I will be posting some part numbers for motors and assorted parts so that we can get to work on the drive soon.
     
  13. WIPER 1ST

    WIPER 1ST Member

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    RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry"
    thanks nick for the lead on loading pictures.
    they did not make it to this string but i did get them uploaded to the file manager.
    so you guys take a look at [​IMG]lines web.jpg and give me som feed back.:confused:
    mate
     
  14. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry"


    [​IMG]
     
  15. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" Looking GOOD!! :)

    I spent most of the day working for the Boy Scouts and then helping one of them work on refitting his I-boat. I did manage to get a little done on my cruiser. Some of the stringer parts are fitted (but not glued up yet, I want to take pics for the class), and I assembled and tested one of the geek-breech cannons that I intend to use. The results were awesome. Awesome, covered in Awesome Sauce(tm). I shot up a red ant mound with a lotta panache and a WHOLE lot of giggling and laughing maniacally. It makes noises that sound like a tweaked Foster breech (maybe not a killer-tweaked Foster, but scary enough for balsa wood to run for the hills). So one area that I was worried about getting fixed is good to go.

    Tomorrow I will be posting the lesson with pics! Maaany pics!

    I does mein Axis heart very goot to zee so many schtudenten working hard on zeir hullz! Kontinue mit der vork! Until tomorrow, Schtudentz! Heil Fluegel!

    (For those who are not in MWC, or are new to the hobby, Herr Flugel aka Grossadmiral Fluegel, is the spiritual leader of the Axis, and a really funny guy in that 'strange, amusing, and yet very dangerous chemistry teacher' funny way. He scared away alligators at a Florida Nats by chucking large-ish sticks of Lithium into the lake. ka-BOOM!!!)
     
  16. Anachronus

    Anachronus Well-Known Member

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    RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry"

    And there are some odd people who would object to that sort of thing. Takes all kinds I guess.
     
  17. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" I would, but my wife lost the cable for the camera. I have nice pics of stringers and casement decks, but no way to put them on the pc. As soon as we find it, I will post them. Hopefully tonite, I got so excited as the work progressed on Saturday and Sunday.
     
  18. Anachronus

    Anachronus Well-Known Member

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    RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry"
    Fortunately that is a pretty standard part. USB to mini usb cables are common. They are however possessed of limited sentience and know when to hide.
     
  19. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" I know how that goes all too well, mine escape all the time. With most things that disappear, I usually blame the cats since they're fond of carrying things off to play with, USB cables though are particularly wily creatures, with an uncanny ability to hide in plain sight.
     
  20. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" 2 ugly words, guys: Proprietary cable