RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" Hey Clark can you send me the plans too? I'd like to try and work on the Pre-Dread along with the Frenchy as I seem to have an excess of 1/4" lows ply from an earlier project. [redacted] if you please sir.
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" Ralph, plans have been sent. James, I had to compress the Warrior plans (LKW compression) to get them small enough to email, they are uploading now, and by the time you read this, you may already have them... I spent 4-5 hours cleaning up the Edgar Quinet frames drawing to a form that is easily useable and thus, more suitable to our class' needs. Like Pommern's drawing, there are two drawings per 8.5 x 11 sheet of paper. The beam (width of the ship) should be 5 and 7/8 inches. If your printer makes it too much different, then only print one copy, and use a copier to reduce/enlarge. When you print the picture, make sure that the little box saying 'Fit Picture to Paper' is NOT checked. That will definately throw things off. Soon, The lesson on laying out ribs on the drawings will be posted, and we will get closer to doing violence to the plywood Frames are here: http://www.rcnavalcombat.com/Portal...%20144.jpg I did make the decision that we are NOT modelling the subtle bevel of the keel (slightly up at the bow end, and slightly down at the stern. Having one straigth line is easier with hand tools (by a mile), and allows the ship to sit flat on a table (and in this class, sit flat without damaging the props nor the rudder).
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" Thanks Clark. I'm gonna start printing the frames off now. Maybe I'll be done cutting them out by tomorrow.
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" Yeah. I'm doing the laying them out and cutting them lesson, which will post tonite, but you've already doe a ship, so feel free to surge ahead. I do disclaim results at that point tho, heh
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" i cheated on the hardwood stick. i had some old 1/4" plywood, so i mesured 1/4" from the side, and 48" down, cut that out and had my stick(hobby lobbie's were a foot to short
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" for future knowledge Lowe's and Home Depot have the hardwood dowels. I'm not sure on price but I'd be willing to bet that it would be cheaper than hobby lobby. Granted the difference is going to be less than $.50 unless you include gas. But you had the cheapest type of all...scrounged! @clark, so what your saying is if I surge ahead and when we get done and yours is built better than mine I can't just pull the 'ol switch-a-roo. Ah Nuts!
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" Ah, guys... getting ahead of the lesson... The lesson is almost done, but it's taking a while to put together... laying out the frames is many many pics... But I'm posting it today. Once we get to the cutting part, it'll be less time-intensive, because right now I'm having to explain a lot (remember that this is intended for a total beginner!). As we move on, we'll have less extensive explanations. Matt, I'm not aiming 'total beginner' at you, the lessons are going to be a tutorial on our website, and we may have some people want to do this who are total beginners. kk?
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" No worries. The Axis "Conquer the world through hideously complex plans" meetings must take a lot of time.
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" HAHHAHA!!! James, you have been unaware of it, but by typing that phraseyou just completed pre-planned Step 423b of Conquest Plan Chartreuse! You allies are DOOMED!!! Our plan is well under way!!
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" DIE Mächtige Achse Wird Ihre Schwächliche Wenig Verbundene Flotte Zerstören.
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" WEEK ONE: FRAMES AND MORE FRAMES Or, 'the Navy couldn't exist without paperwork...' Pick a frame (I like to start int he middle, like at frame 10 in this case), and take your ruler or a 3 x 5 card marked for 1/4" and 1/2", and draw a series of marks 1/2" in from the line of the frame. This will be the inside edge of the frame when we cut it. When you are done, your frames drawing should look like this: Note: Felt-tips are NOT my instrument of choice, a 0.5mm pencil is, but the felt tip shows up on camera much better!
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" WEEK ONE: FRAMES AND MORE FRAMES, con'td. Now, we will connect the dots! draw a line that more or less connects your dots from the centerline on up to the deck of the ship. I also made a small 'box' down at the keel that it 1/8" wide and 1/4" tall. This is a notch where the keel will be, so that our frames will fit easily to our keel. If you're been following the plan, your frame 10 should look like this: Note: Sorry about the focus, the camera is not happy close up. The pen is pointing at the notch for the keel.
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" Das ist gut, wir werden die verhassten alliierten Schweinen zusammen zerdrücken, junge weed raucher!
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" WEEK ONE: FRAMES AND MORE FRAMES Now, make a little guide mark above the top of the line for the frame you're working on. The one in the pic is not frame 10, but you should be able to get the idea, ja?
RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" Now, grab your trusty 3x5 card, and use it as a right angle and a straight-edge. line the short side up along the centerline, with the long edge just below the top of the frame you're working on, as in the pic below. Draw a line from the centerline out to the top edge of the frame. NOW, draw two small marks on the inside edge of the frame... one 1/8" down from the top, and another 3/8" down from the top. So there's 1/4" between them! This is important, the 1/4" space is for the subdeck, the main structural member at the top of the ship. More on that later, but below is what it should look like: Take your 3x5 card again, and draw a horizontal line from the centerline out to the upper mark (the one 1/8" down from the top). Because we're going to have a 1/8" deck, we have to cut 1/8" off the top of all the frames, so that they don't end up 1/8" too tall! Next the tricky part: draw another horizontal line thru the lower mark (the one that the pen is pointing at). We will be making a little notch from this bottom line, so that it looks like the pic below: That vertical line that I made from the lower line to the upper line is 1/4" in from the outside of the frame. The subdeck will be notched to fit this! Interlocking pieces make the hull stronger! The pen cap at the bottom there indicates another important thing to do: number the frames as you do them! It makes life easier.
