SB-101 'Building MN Edgar Quinet'

RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" Ralph, bring the Scharnie to the next Brouha... I wound up with a WW2 Scharnie following me home after last battle

 

RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry"
Okay, this is quick, as I'm at work!! First pic is frames 1 - 4. I will post detailled measurements on where the top and bottom of the notch go on frames 1 - 3 when I get home tonite. The pen is pointing at the 1/8" step where the casement deck goes on that frame... under the current rules, we only get 1 stringer, and that'll be it there on that frame!

The next pic is frame 5... that took some thinking and maybe a bit of white-out. Don't lay out frames when you're tired! The pen is pointing at the '45 degree line', below which, we can have solid area!! (The black mark there is also on the frames in the pic above). Note that frame 5 does NOT move in above where the cannon barrel is... for our purposes, take it in a straight line from above the stringer to the top.

Below, I have frame 1 for your inspection, sorry about the focus!!

 

RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry"
Next is frame 2, the pen points to the (not marked up) thin skeg that goes all the way to the bottom of the ship. You can see the notch for the aft stringer that runs from frame 4 back aft to frame 0 (the stern of the ship):

Next is frame 4, with REALLY bad focus, but it's legible.

LASTLY for this lesson... when you are working feverishly on your plans, you have to expect that Inspector Tuxcat from BuShips will drop by to inspect the work,,,

 

RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" That's the back of the boat, I call it frame 0. The rudder post is between frame 1 and frame 0, so we have to be careful with space in there!

 

RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" Nah, it goes back like another 1/2" to a point. Not so clever. But they designed a ship way ahead of it's time in regards to making scale boat battlers happy Another lesson tonite: Cutting and pasting the frames to the wood! Tomorrow on lunch I start sawing

 

RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry"
Okay, here it is... cutting out ribs (like you need a lesson on that!! But you should have your ribs laid out, and folded in half. With rough cuts, cut away most of the excess paper, but leave like 1/4" to 1/2" along the lines that you must cut. The extra material can actually warp the paper, leading to uneven cuts, making each half of the rib different, even if you're careful. So, like in volleyball you 'bump, set, spike' vice going for the glory all solo-like, in cutting these, you do the rough cut, then the fine cut outside, then the cut inside, and then carefully(!!!) snip out any notches for stringers, etc.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING STEPS BEFORE GLUEING ANY FRAMES!!! THIS IS NOT SOMETHING TO DO STEP 1, THEN READ STEP 2, ETC!!! If you find that you have messed up (or are close to messing up) a frame, don't despair, it's only paper, you can make another one. The important thing is to get it right. Attention to detail in this part of the process is essential! Anyhow, onwards!
Once you have the frames cut, we carefully lay a thin line of glue on the back of ONE FRAME AT A TIME(!!!). (you should do all the steps for one frame at a time, from laying the line of glue thru to glueing it to the board). You can (and I do) lay out the cut frames to see how you'd like them to fit together. As long as you do the glueing steps to one frame at a time. Have I beat that particular deceased equine enough in one post?

Now, quickly, before the glue soaks the paper, use your big meaty finger to smear the glue around on the back, making sure to get it on the small 'prongs' where the keel notch is, and on the parts at the ends where the frame will lock together with the deck...

Again, moving QUICKLY before the glue soaks the paper, carefully (!!!) flip the paper rib over to where you want it to be, being careful not to wrinkle it, or get it bent out of shape. A good quick check is to have a ruler handy and lay it across the 2 sides of the frame along one of the many straight lines. If it's laid out correctly, the lines will still be straight across from each other. This should be done quickly, before the glue starts drying.
So, where on our big piece of wood do we put these frames? Along one of the long sides of the 2'x4'... this will leave us plenty of long stuff to cut the subdeck (important!) and other random things. You can see part of my layout for Edgar in the pic below:

Note that some frames fit inside of other, bigger frames. This saves even more wood, although it's a little bit more work with the saw in tight turns. I think it's worth it to save wood (and thus keep this as cheap as I can).

I hope that you guys have bought your coping saw, sandpaper, and/or file, boys and girls, for tomorrow we cut wood!

 

RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" Oh, I will be reposting the instructions in a locked post for ease of following later. But it's almost 11 and I neeeeed sleeeeeep!!!! G'night, true believers and aspirants to the Most Holy Order of the Iron Jigsaw... prepare yourselves for a boat to begin to take shape!! The exciting part begins very soon!

 

RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" Page 8 of this thread has how to do the notches at the top of the frames. Page 9 has how to do the 1/8" notches on the sides for stringers and casement decks. As I have mentioned, I will be collecting the actual instruction parts in a locked thread so it'll be easier to follow. I will post a few pics of the ship tonite, and work on getting a set of plans in a place where everyone can download them; the file manager on this forum can't handle files bigger than 5MB or so. The full size plan is more than 20MB, so I'll likely put a link to click on somewhere on my own website, so you can just click on it and download the plan and profile views, already in 1:!44 scale. For now, I'm off to dinner after a looong a$$ed day of shots and screaming.

 

RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry"
Here's a pic, found conveniently enough by typing 'cruiser edgar quinet' into Google:

I took pics of a representative sample of frames, not all of them. I showed how to do the layouts on the pages listed in an earlier post, anyone should be able to handle laying out the easy ones in the middle that have but the one notch for the armor belt stringer. I did take pictures of frames that thought would be challenging. The pic of paper frames on the plywood is indeed lacking some of the frames. It's a representative sample, and more than sufficient to show that we need to paste the frames along one long side of the plywood. So to answer your question, no, I do not intend to simply duplicate the widest frames to stand in for others that I didn't show I showed how to do it and I trust you to use the technique shown to produce the frames that are not shown. Don't get hung up on stringers and casement decks at this point. We are getting ready to cut frames, and the other parts are a long way off.
Don't worry too much about being 'weeks behind'. This project will realistically take MONTHS, so a few weeks won't kill anyone. There will be some slow weeks in any case, as I have to go camping with the Boy Scouts, or go battle boats somewhere or whatever. You'll be able to catch up easily. I'm not sure where you live, but I live in a small town in south georgia with no fancy lumber places. I bought my 2' x 4' piece of 1/4" sand plywood at Lowe's. I'm sure that Hechinger's or the Home Despot has the same thing. If you really are 50 miles from anyplace that sells plywood, then you have my most sincere sympathies for living in a particularly blighted corner of the Earth

 

RE: "The Cheapest Point of Entry" Ah, you are even more blighted than I am. Without the internet to order stuff, I'd be doomed,when you google ship, include the type of ship (in this case, 'cruiser'),ty453er as a lot of ships are named after places or people.