Hi Guys, I posted in another area but didn't get much response so I thought I would try here. I would like to take a battleship and have it break down into three parts: bow, middle, and stern. The question that I need help with is how to join them together with the least amount of hassle. Right now there are 6 bolts that are attached to one side (bow), the bow then slides into the middle and bolts are used to attach them. This requires too much time and the room to get the wrench in is limited. Has anyone seen how they join (at lakeside) the larger models? What methods do they use?
Right now I am using screws and nuts, but this takes time to assemble and disassemble. I am thinking of a plate with hooks that goes into the other side and hooks it. Give me some ideas on how to do this. I welcome any feed back or web links or ideas to try in the search engines. Don't ask why to do this (or I would just get a truck to transport it), but ask how you could do it. I can stay with the fiberglass boards for bulkheads, or switch to aluminum or whatever. Should I stay with screws, or look at hooks or rods? Ideas anyone??? Three sections Here you can see the screws and the cooresponding holes in the other side. Stern section.
I like thumbscrews, myself. But then, I'm not sectioning a battleship Beyond having to undo the screws, is there something else you don't like about how your ship is now? You'd mentioned using aluminum plate for the structure earlier...
Perhaps use the bolts as guide pins to keep everything lined up, then use some sort of small c-clamp to clamp the bulkheads together?
Thought about the c-claps, but worried that picking up, putting down, getting wennie-rams could loosen it (would be a cool titanic-like sink). Problem with the current screws is getting a socket wrench in there is a real pain in the you-know-what. Tried making one side have long flat tabs (in fiberglass) that would screw into the bottom and top of the other side, but there were issues in getting a tight fit. Now thinking of this, but keep the questions coming: Make three identical bulkheads. Bow section would have flat pins with a lip on the end, this would be 1/2 inch long (from the face). Second bulkhead would be the middle section, it would have slots that the flat pins pass through, now you only have 1/4 inch left sticking pass. Now I would take the third piece, measure down 2 inches and cut it from port to starboard. Now measure up from the bottom 2 inches and cut it from port to starboard. These two pieces would slide between the second plate and the lips on the pins pulling it tightly. The middle section will be reinstalled to stop the top and bottom from slipping up or down. Maybe a wing nut in each side of the middle section to keep it in place. This way to take it apart I would do the following: Remove the two wing nuts and take out the middle section. Pull down on the third top plate and pull up on the bottom section. Now the bow slides out of the middle section. Seems to be simple with few parts. Now, what is reliable that I can make the lip on the flat pin (think of it this way. Take a 1/4 piece of fiberglass board and cut it 1/2 inch long by 1/2 inch tall. Now cut 1/4 inch from the top so the profile looks like this _______] ). I need something (maybe the fiberglass is strong enough) so that the end lip is strong and won't break in the future. Using 1/4 aluminum would seem to be strong enough, just not sure.
Sorry tuggy, mean't to reply to You'd mentioned using aluminum plate for the structure earlier. This is in reference to the material of either the pin or bulkheads. I need something that will stand up to taking apart and putting it back together. I could use steel if need be, this boat can weigh 37 + pounds.
I think the best, and easiest solution is to use 1/4 turn cam-lock hardware. Here some made by Alcoa. They actually have some with ears sticking out. Push them in, and turn 90 deg, they lock into place. You can search for them on the web, many others make them. Visit this site
If you use some metal dowel pins for alignment in conjunction with the 1/4 turn cam-lock fasteners, you should be able to quickly and consistently align the sections and fasten them together.
Great, now you have me thinking about great ways to have a very very cool sink using a servo pulling out the tie-togthers for the sections...... You can get the camlocs from aircraft spruce -Greg
Mine will have to stay at home, we wont have room to bring it, since were all riding up in Rick's truck. But I have started working on what we talked about at the November battle. The only way it will work for mine is to use 2, 3.5 oz bottles. And I plan on getting rid of the waterproof box also. But still need to figure out how to do the rotate, I'm thinking about using CO2 cylinder, but not sure yet, maybe a servo.
I have a great rotate that works using a servo. Issues with air but with the new gearing it could be done as well. Both turrets use electrical couplers and glass ball bearings from McMaster-Carr. Very smooth operation. I am changing mine over as well to 2 3.5 oz bottles. The superstructure is cast foam that has little weight. Cheap to produce but more importantly it helps reduce any rocking while in a turn. This is my next build after the Cleveland. Remember, this one can have dual sidemounts (two turrets), with a rotate you can really hang with the NC's and trade two for one. [] It will be a nice bull session this weekend.
Yep what I was talking about, I need to see your dual rotates, I will have to copy it, lol. Please bring it so I can see, I was thinking after the Kumano is done to work on the same thing. It will force the Allieds to respond in kind, or sink.
A couple of thoughts on the breakdown ship. One, have you considered a nutdriver bit with a compact cordless screwdriver (with a 90-degree head or flex shaft if necessary)? 2, have you considered a take-apart hinge on the bottom with just the top screws (or vice versa)? One source of these is http://www.tchweb.com/cgi-bin/TCH2.storefront TCH (Transcontinental Hardware) normally carries Southco latches and 1/4 turn fastener systems, but that portion of their site appears to be down right now. To put it in context, TCH sells the parts to make equipment cases for musicians etc. Seen those cases where the top, when unlatched, removes? This is the place for that kind of hardware. Also a good place tor bits and pieces to build a carrying case for your ship, of course. Curious why you feel the need to break it down? And into 3 sections? Cheers,
The biggest issue for me is getting to the bolts at the bottom of the hull as the water channeling is in the way. This ship needs to be sectioned as it won't fit into my car. Another reason is I can now ship it in a standard box and fly to far away meets. Plus, it's just cool to me. I have a way to do it now that will let me take apart the boat in less than one minute. Basically using a circular flange (like that found on the bottom of toilets - mounting plate)--insert joke here. The bow section will join the middle at a 45 degree angle, then rotate to the right to lock them together. A strip of silkspan will seal the outside joint making it water proof. Once I get the other projects done, this will be next. I am currently testing this with paper mock ups.
And the guy at the car dealership wonders why I have the seats down and the foot rule out. The boat fits just fine. Had a 2003 Toyota Matrix and just got the new and improved ship hauler, the 2009 Toyota Matrix.
Take apart hinges on the bottom will resolve the issue of the bolts in the bottom, of course. You just attach the sections and fold it flat, bolt the top and you are done. Of course there are also clamping latches available that would compress the sides pretty tightly. Again TCH usually carried them. Cheers,
